So I think many of us get creative with tools when we can and need to, I have done plenty in my time.

It is my go to when I can muster it and was glad the other day when I figured out the seat post arbor, crude as it was.


The quill stem and shims seat post clamp expander was a simple hack that worked perfect.


This next one was so simple it took me a long time to figure it out, solves an age old problem, ef me for it taking so long, transmission snap ring pliers can get a stem on with zero drama or scratches in no time.





This one I have done for a long time, holds dropout screws for install and works for screws that are hard to get to or started.


This one was the most needed as I hate throw away cartridge BB's and did not want to come out, all that was needed was a stem bolt, some socket spacers and the tool.




My third hand that we saw a couple weeks back, tiny DeWalt bar clamp.




What else have you got.

Even simpler; put the screw in from the back side, and a small bit of steel in the gap for it to push on.

That’s brilliant!

Brilliant!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144450883484? Make your life easy

I got creative (I think) the other day with removing a freewheel. With only one working arm I couldn't get it to budge using the usual removal tool in a vise, turn wheel trick.

On a whim I grabbed my battery powered Dewalt Impact wrench and BAM, super easy! Still wondering if there's a downside to doing this as it doesn't seem to get mentioned when talking about removing freewheels. I did hold the removal tool in place with a QR skewer that was only lightly tightened. Stopped the wrench the second the freewheel broke lose. This was a Suntour 2 tab freewheel so the removal tool I have is quite beefy.

I need to locate one of those! I've mutilated bars before. Then again, I have not tried the backwards-bolt solution either.

I have a couple of really small ones from a set from Lidl, kinda useless for woodworking projects; but I use it when wrapping bars -- I get to the top, use the clamp to keep the end in place and not unravelling, to free my hands while I get started with the finishing tape.

After years of struggling with certain stem/bar combo's I finally bought one of these. It's been a game changer.

Nitto Stem Spreading Tool #4

https://www.retro-gression.com/produ...xev8jkOBllXhOg

Thanks looks stout, and viable, but $40 for a piece of stamped metal? The transmission pliers might be cheaper -- then again, I have not checked. And anything is cheaper than ruining a pristine set of Cinelli bars.

The pliers allow for "steering" the stem and varying the gap on the fly as you go along. Many stems don't allow for the bolt and washer trick.

The best thing about hacking like this is getting it done without spending more time and money, as a FoMoCo and ASE Sr Master Tech I had/have no problem buying a tool that's truly needed.

And just like at the drag strip, it ain't gonna get done if you can't figure it out right now, which I did most of the time, went onto and usually won the next round.

One night I was trying to remove a SS 2 notch freewheel, didn't have the tool, so I made a crude one. Worked OK.

Found an old Peugeot pliers buried in a shop backyard, liked the patina. Made a BB lockring tool out of it.

easier still is to put a wadded up paper towel in the socket to take up extra room and prevent the socket from backing out of the splines.... carefully done, the paper will also retain the remover socket in the drive socket...
i've used the paper-in-socket thing for a long time to retain nuts in sockets for install in difficult places.

i have used an impact gun on all the shimano freewheels i remove for over a decade now... one pull of the trigger, and off they come... i've had ONE park socket the entire time... still going strong.

i have snapped the drive teeth off of a suntour two prong socket... i tried the bench vise, PBB oil, heat, hand held impactor w/3lb. sledge,,, then the 'gun..... i finally gave up on salvaging that hub.
a few Normandy/Schwinns have hit the scrap barrel too.

one of my favorite hacks uses a dab of Valve Lapping compound to add Traction to a stubborn phillips or allen screw head.
a quick whap to the screwdriver with a hammer helps loosen stuck threads too.
Thanks goes out to Hot Rod Magazine, circa 1968 or so!

The pliers are here, not sure if the same, don't look to be, couple other different versions as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-44900-L...hvexpln=0&th=1

Yep, lapping compound can also be used like carbon paste, maybe not on carbon but slipping SP's and stems, bars, etc.

That looks worthwhile even with a new set of pliers.

The Sugino lockring tool has never failed me, never slipped unless I messed up.

It has a curve that when used properly wraps and loads the ring while gripping it very, very well for me for over 50 years and still going strong.

It works so much better and puts both Campy and Park to shame IMO, YMMV.

Had to put new brake pads on rear discs of a SAAB 99 I owned and drove back in the '70's. I'd departed for a trip with a friend (who was a SAAB mechanic at the time) and his then girlfriend when we noted the noise of scrubbing backers. We returned to the then-closed shop (it was about 8 PM by then) where we determined they'd not yet purchased the needed 'special tool' to retract the brake pistons.

So I scrounged through their scrap pile, found a bit of channel stock I could cut & grind to shape, made 'pins' out of something else, welded it up and shaZAM! got us back on the road by about 9:15.

Like merziac related, you do what you have to to get further down the road....

$40!!🥵🥵
They should get beat with sticks for that pricing!

Nitto Stem Spreading Tool #4

https://www.retro-gression.com/produ...xev8jkOBllXhOg[/QUOTE]

Yep, where there's a will, there's a way if you have the resources, which I usually do and am fortunate enough to have plenty, usually.

No Lathe, welder or torch but a cut off wheel, big air hammer, impacts, BIG efn vise, big compressor and bench grinder along with so many other tools can get a lot done if I use my head and proceed with caution, emphasis on the caution not only for safety but also to do no harm to the part.

Can be very challenging to get after it on nice, often not robust bike parts without messing them up.

It is key to do no harm, always, period.

My cartridge BB removal set up:

This particular one would not budge. So, one blip with an impact wrench and it was out.

[/QUOTE]


LOL, I got mine else where. Just posted that to illustrate the tool. But, that said. As frustrated as I've been a few times over the years trying to get bars threw a stem even $40 is cheap!

It comes to all of us in our own way.

I've never needed an impact and the wrench is supposed to be directly on and as close as possible to the stuck part.

A basic tenet taught by many expert mechanics to me along the way.

I've always been able to get it loose by as direct as possible contact.

The old version of the Nitto stem tool is nicer. It had two ends with different angles and was more of a forged looking thing.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...4/DSCF5047.JPG

I usaully use a box end for removal with that set up. And a shorter socket with a torque wrench for installation. The only reason the pictured deepwell was used is because I needed a 3/4" drive socket for my impact gun and that was the only one that fit. In fact it wasn't even a 24mm it was a 15/16".