Need help identifying a beach cruiser frame
07-14-25 | 04:40 PM
#1
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Need help identifying a beach cruiser frame
Hi I'm new here and sorry if this has been covered, but I could not find on my searches.
I need help identifying the frame of a Beach Cruiser project that I'm working on the frame number is 6nhec12b18809. Thank you for any help
I need help identifying the frame of a Beach Cruiser project that I'm working on the frame number is 6nhec12b18809. Thank you for any help
Last edited by Low_Schwinn; 07-14-25 at 04:45 PM.
07-14-25 | 08:22 PM
#2
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Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport
Is that you painting jig made with PVC? Pretty neat. I like it. It's tough the identify from the few pictures. One clue is that the chain stays meet and are welded to the top tube further forward than the usual intersection of the top tube and seat tube. But I don't know the make of the frame. I am thinking it is either from the balloon tire era or a much newer cruiser Renaissance period. That is how much I don't know.
Oh, the pictures aren't that clear but it looks like the tubes have been welded together. That makes this a much newer frame. There are a lot of brands that made cruiser in the tig welded period. This could be tough to tell.
Can you get pictures of the rear dropout? And from the side? And any pictures of things that you think may be unique about this bike. Unfortunately, most of our members are more expert at non-cruiser bikes, so it may be possible that you don't get a definite answer. But lets see how this goes since this is a more recent bike frame.
There is a Cruiser section on BikeForums. This may go there better, but it is not as active as the C&V section.
Oh, the pictures aren't that clear but it looks like the tubes have been welded together. That makes this a much newer frame. There are a lot of brands that made cruiser in the tig welded period. This could be tough to tell.
Can you get pictures of the rear dropout? And from the side? And any pictures of things that you think may be unique about this bike. Unfortunately, most of our members are more expert at non-cruiser bikes, so it may be possible that you don't get a definite answer. But lets see how this goes since this is a more recent bike frame.
There is a Cruiser section on BikeForums. This may go there better, but it is not as active as the C&V section.
07-14-25 | 09:29 PM
#3
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Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
Is that you painting jig made with PVC? Pretty neat. I like it. It's tough the identify from the few pictures. One clue is that the chain stays meet and are welded to the top tube further forward than the usual intersection of the top tube and seat tube. But I don't know the make of the frame. I am thinking it is either from the balloon tire era or a much newer cruiser Renaissance period. That is how much I don't know.
Oh, the pictures aren't that clear but it looks like the tubes have been welded together. That makes this a much newer frame. There are a lot of brands that made cruiser in the tig welded period. This could be tough to tell.
Can you get pictures of the rear dropout? And from the side? And any pictures of things that you think may be unique about this bike. Unfortunately, most of our members are more expert at non-cruiser bikes, so it may be possible that you don't get a definite answer. But lets see how this goes since this is a more recent bike frame.
There is a Cruiser section on BikeForums. This may go there better, but it is not as active as the C&V section.
Oh, the pictures aren't that clear but it looks like the tubes have been welded together. That makes this a much newer frame. There are a lot of brands that made cruiser in the tig welded period. This could be tough to tell.
Can you get pictures of the rear dropout? And from the side? And any pictures of things that you think may be unique about this bike. Unfortunately, most of our members are more expert at non-cruiser bikes, so it may be possible that you don't get a definite answer. But lets see how this goes since this is a more recent bike frame.
There is a Cruiser section on BikeForums. This may go there better, but it is not as active as the C&V section.
and +1 for MORE PICS, including the head tube area and fork too.. and write out the serial numbers... hard to see in some pics, especially really blurry ones...
the seat post diameter can also be a clue.. measure the inside of the seat tube of the frame, if you don't have the post..
Last edited by maddog34; 07-14-25 at 09:40 PM.
07-15-25 | 05:43 AM
#4
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Welded-on kickstand plate, flimsy chainguard attachment tabs, and a stamped-steel, tack welded seatpost clamp. Probably a 1" (25.4mm) seatpost, correct?
I'll wager even money that this is a 2010's Huffy Santa Fe or variation thereof. Beware of forks with brittle steerer tubes on these - it is not a bad idea to swap out the unicrown forks for something else. The rear triangles are often way out of alignment too, so if you're doing a custom that you care about, put a Park frame gauge on it.
If you don't have a Park alignment gauge, there's always the string method (not great). I've never tried it before, but you could take a household laser level, line it up with the top tube, and then measure from the laser centerline to the left and right dropouts to verify.
-Kurt
I'll wager even money that this is a 2010's Huffy Santa Fe or variation thereof. Beware of forks with brittle steerer tubes on these - it is not a bad idea to swap out the unicrown forks for something else. The rear triangles are often way out of alignment too, so if you're doing a custom that you care about, put a Park frame gauge on it.
If you don't have a Park alignment gauge, there's always the string method (not great). I've never tried it before, but you could take a household laser level, line it up with the top tube, and then measure from the laser centerline to the left and right dropouts to verify.
-Kurt
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Last edited by cudak888; 07-15-25 at 05:49 AM.
