Question on a Mixte frame
#27
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Well I would have beat them to death with that, one of my top pet peeves, DON'T SHOW IT IF IT'S NOT INCLUDED!!!
Bait and switch, false advertising, sketchy selling, etc, etc. EF THAT.
Especially Brooks, take it off, when I see one it better be included.
Not taking the dropout screws out or screwing them all the way in so they don't get "screwed" is the other one, how can it be so hard not to ef them up.
Glad you stepped up and hope you can make it work, its a killer git regardless.
Bait and switch, false advertising, sketchy selling, etc, etc. EF THAT.

Especially Brooks, take it off, when I see one it better be included.
Not taking the dropout screws out or screwing them all the way in so they don't get "screwed" is the other one, how can it be so hard not to ef them up.
Glad you stepped up and hope you can make it work, its a killer git regardless.
...and that's why I always read thru the descriptions more than once.

The ad did state 'Frame set' (which I understand to mean frame and fork only) headset was also included in the description. It didn't mention rims or hubs. I messaged the seller to confirm about the wheels before hand.
#28
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Well done Kevin!
One more option for the rear brake. I have a Peugeot mixte that uses a rear sidepull brake that is designed to accept the cable from the bottom, not the top. This photo shows the cable run with the stop at the bottom, at least. The cable bolts at the upper arm.

One more option for the rear brake. I have a Peugeot mixte that uses a rear sidepull brake that is designed to accept the cable from the bottom, not the top. This photo shows the cable run with the stop at the bottom, at least. The cable bolts at the upper arm.

I was reluctant to say but I do more so prefer side-pull calipers. This ^ routing of the brake cable is the same as Raleigh Sport step-thru frames. Actually I like it better than the Pit Viper routing.


#29
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Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Thank you,
...and that's why I always read thru the descriptions more than once.
The ad did state 'Frame set' (which I understand to mean frame and fork only) headset was also included in the description. It didn't mention rims or hubs. I messaged the seller to confirm about the wheels before hand.
...and that's why I always read thru the descriptions more than once.

The ad did state 'Frame set' (which I understand to mean frame and fork only) headset was also included in the description. It didn't mention rims or hubs. I messaged the seller to confirm about the wheels before hand.

Yep, I get it but like I said, if its not included, do not show it, its a dodge, helps set the hook, then "oh no, they're not included, I just showed them for context."
BS, not ok, the wording should at least call it out up front, still not be ok but again glad you got it so hope you can get it where you want it.
#30
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Aubergine beat me to the bottom load rear caliper picture. My Revel has rear brake cable stop on the NDS top tube, about the same positioning as the frame in the op. The braking was just ok with all the looping involved getting from the stop to the caliper cable mount. And, just ok due to it being the rear brake. I solved the issue by simply mounting the caliper inside of the rear caliper, on the brake bridge. I also used full length housing with cable ties on the driveside top tube. Now the cable/housing to the derailleur has a minimal loop to get to the caliper.. The braking is vastly improved.
I am rehabbing a total reverse shoulder replacement, 7/24/2025, right shoulder. Hence, I have the Revel on an indoor trainer, I can dismount using the step through while holding the handlebar with my left hand. It eliminates the right from the process.
I think I would likely not like the center pull caliper with cable and housing running down the center of the top tubes. I like having the top tube for a bottle mount and/or top tube bags.It is all in easy reach.

I am rehabbing a total reverse shoulder replacement, 7/24/2025, right shoulder. Hence, I have the Revel on an indoor trainer, I can dismount using the step through while holding the handlebar with my left hand. It eliminates the right from the process.
I think I would likely not like the center pull caliper with cable and housing running down the center of the top tubes. I like having the top tube for a bottle mount and/or top tube bags.It is all in easy reach.

#31
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That is one of the interesting things about Mixte's, there are many possibilities on how to set up the brakes and the bike. On my wife's Panasonic, the wheels were changed to 26" x 1-3/8" (650a or ISO 590) and required dual pivot Tektro calipers. Since there was a brake mount on the twin lateral bridge for the original center pull, I placed the caliper in the same place. I found that if the cable housing made a straight shot down the left lateral tube, then brake housing would move with the activation of the brake. It was moved to the right side to put a bit of bend in the housing and allow the housing to bend when the brake moved.

Cable ties might be acceptable on a modern bike, but I don't don't like them on this vintage bike. They need to be changed to perhaps twine. I know there are cable clips made for smaller diameters, but I haven't seen them.
Anyway, mixte's are fun because they are versatile.
This R.E.W Reynolds frame will need to be built. @Kevin7 please keep the progress pictures coming. And then post the completed bike on the Mixte thread. I am hoping your wife loves it.
Show us your Mixte

Cable ties might be acceptable on a modern bike, but I don't don't like them on this vintage bike. They need to be changed to perhaps twine. I know there are cable clips made for smaller diameters, but I haven't seen them.
Anyway, mixte's are fun because they are versatile.
This R.E.W Reynolds frame will need to be built. @Kevin7 please keep the progress pictures coming. And then post the completed bike on the Mixte thread. I am hoping your wife loves it.
Show us your Mixte
#32
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 16,181
Likes: 9,559
From: PDX
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
That is one of the interesting things about Mixte's, there are many possibilities on how to set up the brakes and the bike. On my wife's Panasonic, the wheels were changed to 26" x 1-3/8" (650a or ISO 590) and required dual pivot Tektro calipers. Since there was a brake mount on the twin lateral bridge for the original center pull, I placed the caliper in the same place. I found that if the cable housing made a straight shot down the left lateral tube, then brake housing would move with the activation of the brake. It was moved to the right side to put a bit of bend in the housing and allow the housing to bend when the brake moved.

Cable ties might be acceptable on a modern bike, but I don't don't like them on this vintage bike. They need to be changed to perhaps twine. I know there are cable clips made for smaller diameters, but I haven't seen them.
Anyway, mixte's are fun because they are versatile.
This R.E.W Reynolds frame will need to be built. @Kevin7 please keep the progress pictures coming. And then post the completed bike on the Mixte thread. I am hoping your wife loves it.
Show us your Mixte

Cable ties might be acceptable on a modern bike, but I don't don't like them on this vintage bike. They need to be changed to perhaps twine. I know there are cable clips made for smaller diameters, but I haven't seen them.
Anyway, mixte's are fun because they are versatile.
This R.E.W Reynolds frame will need to be built. @Kevin7 please keep the progress pictures coming. And then post the completed bike on the Mixte thread. I am hoping your wife loves it.
Show us your Mixte

#33
Bikes are okay, I guess.



Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Richmond, Virginia
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT, Jeunet mixte
#34
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Not just a mixte
#35
Bikes are okay, I guess.



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From: Richmond, Virginia
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT, Jeunet mixte
#37
aka Tom Reingold




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I like your cat. She reminds me of a black cat I had, and he wore a similar tag. He had a fetish for tape and liked to fight it and chew it, so I picture your cat blissing out while you rip the tape off the box.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#38
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From: Toledo Ohio
Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others
I have little knowledge of mixties except for a Miyata 210 and an AD that I worked on. The Miyata had a short headtube requiring riser bars for an upright conversion. The AD on the other hand had a taller headtube, and my sister likes it as is for her fast bike. I guess,
with the mixte style, a manufacturer could really use any headtube they wanted. Good luck on your pretty frame.

with the mixte style, a manufacturer could really use any headtube they wanted. Good luck on your pretty frame.

#39
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Joined: Aug 2009
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Love the mice fleeing from the scene. 
Anyway, +1 for the reversed cable routing at the rear caliper. It doesn't work with all calipers, I've found. But it results in nice cable curves and decent brake action with the Modolos on mrs non-fixie's Benotto:

Water ingress is a little more likely if left out in the rain, but an occasional wet ride didn't lead to any problems:


Anyway, +1 for the reversed cable routing at the rear caliper. It doesn't work with all calipers, I've found. But it results in nice cable curves and decent brake action with the Modolos on mrs non-fixie's Benotto:

Water ingress is a little more likely if left out in the rain, but an occasional wet ride didn't lead to any problems:

#40
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Lol, Omg I didn't even notice the mice. I'm usually having to remove them from my shoes. The black and white toy on the other side is her hand puppet Skunk she drags around with her everywhere. 
Really nice Mixte! Thanks for sharing the photo's.

Really nice Mixte! Thanks for sharing the photo's.
#41
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As it turns out she is a Bombay breed. In natural light her eyes are a beautiful golden-brown copper color.
#43
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So, next question.
What size seat post do I need?
I stopped at bike Farm in Portland, went thru their 100 plus seat posts collection (needs reorganized and purged because.Damn)
Brought home a couple posts. One 27.0 and another I thought was 26.8 but somehow, I mis-measured.
The 27.0 does not fit.

Seat post. I did take the frame to work to use their Bore scope. But it was in quality for it's annual certs.

Did a mock up of the cranks and bb. The threads for one of the pedal hole was a little boogered but threaded fine from the backside until the very end. Waiting on a tap to arrive to clean that up. The chainrings on the campy steel crank I swapped with rings from a Specialties TA steel rings.

The little nub on the seat post looks like a cable stop for a derailer. I wont be using it.
What size seat post do I need?
I stopped at bike Farm in Portland, went thru their 100 plus seat posts collection (needs reorganized and purged because.Damn)
Brought home a couple posts. One 27.0 and another I thought was 26.8 but somehow, I mis-measured.
The 27.0 does not fit.

Seat post. I did take the frame to work to use their Bore scope. But it was in quality for it's annual certs.

Did a mock up of the cranks and bb. The threads for one of the pedal hole was a little boogered but threaded fine from the backside until the very end. Waiting on a tap to arrive to clean that up. The chainrings on the campy steel crank I swapped with rings from a Specialties TA steel rings.

The little nub on the seat post looks like a cable stop for a derailer. I wont be using it.
#44
Francophile

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Reynolds 531 tubing should be 27.2, but if the seat tube is out of round or distorted, a 27.2 seat post may not want to go in. Take a look at the slot at the rear of the tube-- is it pinched together?
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#45
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#46
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Reynolds decal details
So, next question.
What size seat post do I need?
I stopped at bike Farm in Portland, went thru their 100 plus seat posts collection (needs reorganized and purged because.Damn)
Brought home a couple posts. One 27.0 and another I thought was 26.8 but somehow, I mis-measured.
The 27.0 does not fit.

Seat post. I did take the frame to work to use their Bore scope. But it was in quality for it's annual certs.

Did a mock up of the cranks and bb. The threads for one of the pedal hole was a little boogered but threaded fine from the backside until the very end. Waiting on a tap to arrive to clean that up. The chainrings on the campy steel crank I swapped with rings from a Specialties TA steel rings.

The little nub on the seat post looks like a cable stop for a derailer. I wont be using it.
What size seat post do I need?
I stopped at bike Farm in Portland, went thru their 100 plus seat posts collection (needs reorganized and purged because.Damn)
Brought home a couple posts. One 27.0 and another I thought was 26.8 but somehow, I mis-measured.
The 27.0 does not fit.

Seat post. I did take the frame to work to use their Bore scope. But it was in quality for it's annual certs.

Did a mock up of the cranks and bb. The threads for one of the pedal hole was a little boogered but threaded fine from the backside until the very end. Waiting on a tap to arrive to clean that up. The chainrings on the campy steel crank I swapped with rings from a Specialties TA steel rings.

The little nub on the seat post looks like a cable stop for a derailer. I wont be using it.
#47
Francophile

Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,830
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#49
Senior Member




Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 16,181
Likes: 9,559
From: PDX
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
So, next question.
What size seat post do I need?
I stopped at bike Farm in Portland, went thru their 100 plus seat posts collection (needs reorganized and purged because.Damn)
Brought home a couple posts. One 27.0 and another I thought was 26.8 but somehow, I mis-measured.
The 27.0 does not fit.
Seat post. I did take the frame to work to use their Bore scope. But it was in quality for it's annual certs.

Did a mock up of the cranks and bb. The threads for one of the pedal hole was a little boogered but threaded fine from the backside until the very end. Waiting on a tap to arrive to clean that up. The chainrings on the campy steel crank I swapped with rings from a Specialties TA steel rings.
The little nub on the seat post looks like a cable stop for a derailer. I wont be using it.
What size seat post do I need?
I stopped at bike Farm in Portland, went thru their 100 plus seat posts collection (needs reorganized and purged because.Damn)
Brought home a couple posts. One 27.0 and another I thought was 26.8 but somehow, I mis-measured.
The 27.0 does not fit.
Seat post. I did take the frame to work to use their Bore scope. But it was in quality for it's annual certs.

Did a mock up of the cranks and bb. The threads for one of the pedal hole was a little boogered but threaded fine from the backside until the very end. Waiting on a tap to arrive to clean that up. The chainrings on the campy steel crank I swapped with rings from a Specialties TA steel rings.
The little nub on the seat post looks like a cable stop for a derailer. I wont be using it.

Borescope too.








