I have a mid 80s Fiorelli(6 speed cassette) bike I am restoring. My plan is to ride the bike some. It won't be my main bike. It currently has a Campagnolo Triomphe crank. I would like to cold set the rear to 130mm and upgrade the shifters to a new 10 speed group with ErgoPower Shifters. (I really don't want to go back to downtube shifters.) Will the Triomphe crank work with the newer 9 or 10 speed group sets? The main reason I want to keep the Triomphe crank is that it will accommodate smaller chain rings than 39.

Thanks

I've seen various members run vintage cranks on modern groups, so you *should* be fine.

I'm still using old Nuovo Record cranks with ten speed groups.

Multi-speed chains from 5 to 8 speeds are designed as having 3/32″ (2.38 mm) inner widthwhile 9 to 12 speeds chains are 11/128″ (2.18 mm). You will likely want to test fit a 10 speed chain on your triomphe chainring but odds are that it will work just fine despite the slightly narrower chain width.

If that Campy Triomphe crank was designed for 5/6 speed originally, the 10 speed chain will most likely get jammed between the two chain rings.
A triple crankset is what you need if low gearing is what you are after.

Triomphe uses that really odd 116bcd which was only common for that and Victory and kids bikes which are not as hardy. I remember getting a crank and being like cool this look decent and then reading up on it and putting it in the parts bin

I was interested in one too and almost pulled the trigger, but after finding out the BCD, I decided 144 and 135 was enough.

Thanks

Thanks, that is promising. My personal opinion is those older cranks have a really nice classic look on an older bike. It is the one component that tends to stand out the most.

Yea, the 116 BCD is one of my hesitations for sure, but I have located a couple of 38, 37, 36 and 35 teeth chain rings made by MIche. They are marketed as for Triomphe and Victory cranks. Has anyone use these?

I might just cold set the rear, get a 10 speed group and see how it goes. Worst case is that I got to get a different crank.

It will work. On my bike, I need to quickly shift large to small chainring. If I shift slowly the chain can ride on the small ring without engaging. Not a big deal in my case.

I agree with the majority, it should work fine. I have one bike that's running 10sp and a Campy MTB crank. I have another with a Triomphe crank and a 6sp freewheel but I'm using a 9sp chain. I tend to use 9sp chains with all of my older bikes because I think that they shift a bit better.

I run a Miche 35T on my Triomphe and it works well.

When chainring spacing became narrower in the later 90's and into the 2000's, Campagnolo adjusted the offset of the big ring to enable 10s chain compatible spacing.

Shimano adjusted the offset of their small chainrings to effect a similar narrowing of chainring spacing.

These changes were subtle. Your Triomphe crankset would have been "new" enough to at least be compatible with the narrow Sedisport chain of that era.

What I have found to be the case with cranksets made during the "~7s narrow chain" era is that a sufficient adjustment to the chainring spacing can be made just by applying added bevel to the left side of the small chainring's teeth, and which subtly re-locates the tips of the teeth closer to the big ring. This worked perfectly on my 7s Klein after I changed the shifters, cassette and chain to 10s Shimano parts. I've not had a single chain drop or chain "skate" occurrence.

On even older cranksets (such as certain very wide-spaced Stronglight and SR Apex cranksets), I've sometimes had to go as far as removing the small ring and (using an adjustable wrench) bending each tooth about a half-mm toward the drive-side, to further adjust the positioning of the tips of the small chainring's teeth. I did this by eye, and it worked perfectly, never broke a tooth either.
It gets more interesting when you are dealing with a triple crankset, but here one only has to bevel (or, in the extreme, bend) the teeth of both of the smaller rings.

Campy 10sp cranks still look more or less like what most of us grew up with BITD. I run those (triple) on multiple old frames, and they look appropriate to my eye. After that, four-arm crank spiders became all the rage and I still cannot bring myself to consider them.

As with those above I have had no troubles and appreciate the look on my vintage frames.

They work fine on Triomphe/Victory cranks. The crank doesn't really care what the rear cluster is, but others have mentioned the possibility of a narrower, 10-speed chain getting jammed between the chainrings or between the crank arm and the outer ring. Another issue you may run into is if you use indexed front shifting. Shifters designed for indexed shifting may not allow the "overshift and trim" method of friction shifting, so the chainrings use ramps and pins to facilitate shifting without having to overshift first, and the front derailleur cage tends to be wider, to prevent scraping since you can't trim the derailleur to eliminate the scraping. This in turn requires the crank arm to be offset outboard to provide clearance for the wider derailleur cage. I don't recall if the 116mm Miche rings are available in a ramped and pinned version, but that may be moot if there is not adequate clearance for the front derailleur. So, it may not be a simple "upgrade," but you may luck out and find that it works fine.

Or you can go the other way.

Triomphe cranks with a 35T Miche inner ring: