Starting my Windsor rebuild. Some rust and just wanting to look cool again as to a re-paint instead of original patina. Looking at mostly campy buildout. Work in progress.

you got one with extra nice paint (Orange Pro is a grail frame for most Acer-Mex fans) plus this has original decals in 'good' condition plus the chrome stay caps that they didn't come out with until "later years"...so i think it already looks cool!
my 2 cents: I'd keep things original, maybe replace the Columbus decal but then just some cleaning and minor touch-up, then give it a good coat of wax...

Trivia note: I didn't recall them having just 2 TT cable guides when the Pro started coming with those brazed on: a nod to Colnago , maybe?
Trivia question: does it have a 27.2 seatpost or a smaller size?

I agree with unworthy1 on this. The paint is pretty good and decals are intact. I wouldn't paint it. And paint for me is relatively easy since I have the equipment and experience.

Get some orange paint and an inexpensive brush or brush set. I like Testor's model paints but we all have preferences. Keep in mind that straight out of the bottle may not be a good enough match. You may need a bottle of red and/or orange yellow and even white to get the tint right or close enough. My technique now is to fill the chip, then fill it a second time. Come back and wet sand it with 600 grit sandpaper with a backing block or heavy rubber backer so that it conforms to the curve of of the tube. Level the paint with the sand paper then go to 1000 grit.

Use rubbing compound on the whole frame, followed by polishing compound and then an automotive wax. I like Meguiar's for wax and 3M for the rubbing and polishing compounds.

That frame is going to look great. Then keep posting as you build it up. I'm going to guess that this might have some Campagnolo bits that are going on it kirkcampyfool .

Thanks to both of you for the thoughts, I hate the rust that will keep on growing under the paint, but now looking at how to deal with that and keep original paint.....

i can't see much evidence of rust growing under the paint in these pix, but assuming you do see such and want to take another route to arrest it, maybe...
clean the entire stripped frame and fork, then get a plastic wading pool and soak it all in a solution of oxalic acid (AKA wood bleach) in warm water. That should NOT harm either the paint or the decals if done as many others have, but can penetrate porous paint and neutralize rust.
One caveat is if there's rust under chrome you can lose portions of the chrome plating when the rust holding it is removed from the steel. Often that will be minimal but "it all depends"

Then rinse with clean water and DRY it thoroughly, use a hairdryer or heat gun to drive all moisture out of the innards, with skill and luck you'll then have a frame with no rust ready to grow again BUT you should protect the insides with favorite "Framesaver" type fluid and then follow Velo Mule's guidance for treating the outsides.

I bet it will turn out great!

It looks like 27, so it may be clamped down a bit. Not ready to fit a post their yet, but should be OK with Campy Centaur post. The 2 cable guides not to sure on. There was the Cinelli influence as to the butted finish with the 3 holes/dots, I didn't know that much about Windsor before I got this frame, then ready the Eddy Merckx story, which was kind funny that there is a decal with his record MX city record on the bike

a 27.0 seatpost is not a surprise if that's the correct fit: this is a 60cm frame and with that size it's common to use the heavier-wall SP tube for seat tube, maybe other tubes as well but probably the remainder is SL tubing.
Same decal was used with either all SL, all SP or a "mix".
the story long recounted as to what was actually used in that World Record run is that despite what the frame said he rode the bike he wanted to use, and it was not a Mexican-made Windsor!
But Acer-Mex paid for the event so got to use those World Champion Stripes!