Say you are building up you vintage frame. what preps do you want to do? What kind of internal rust protectant would you apply and would you put anything through it to inhibit or remove rust that may already be there? Thanks for your suggestions.

I don't know if I would ever be so involved as to build up a bike, but having spent most of my life in and around machine shops, I would probably use LPS spray in the tubes (after painting). It is formulated to leave a coating that prevents rust. We used it, and found it, on all bare steel surfaces that were exposed, such as tube stock and plate stock, whether machined or in the raw. It's a little sticky, but it needs to stay put.

When we recieved new machined parts or precision tooling, it would be thus coated from the vendor. No rust. Also, new firearms are coated lightly with something similar, I'm sure. I don't think it's cosmoline anymore although some arsenal surplus is still coated with it.

LPS also comes in a WD-40 formula - that's not the stuff I'm talking about.

easy, Peter Weigle's Frame Saver.
made for exactly that kind of application, I believe it will ****** any rust that
is already existing, and stop any new rust from starting.
Most LBS's should have it.
Better than Boesheild, Wd40 or any other homebrew concoctions

marty

auto parts stores sells this product that prevents rust, it is like paint, you can get it in almost any color, but you just spray or use a brush, on anything you need, and it will stop rust

thanks for the tips.

Has anyone ever heard of usuing Linseed oil to prevent rust?

The aircraft industry has used (and still uses) Linseed Oil since the 1920s to reduce (prevent) rust inside struts and CrMo tubing. The tubing is filled with Linseed Oil and sloshed around and then drained and the tube sealed with a rivet. I think LPS3 would be a good choice also. Probably Frame Saver too.

I love this topic, cause I hates the rust...my vote is for Weigle's FrameSaver (#1) as it's the BEST product for the job, costs a little more but you get what you pay for. Vote #2 is a tie between Boeshield/LPS#3/PennzoilMarineZ7/various other makes of what the Brits generically call "waxy-oil". Usually a brown smelly liquid that dries to a brown smelly wax, but Framesaver is the highly-refined pinnacle of that ilk. There's nothing that boiled Linseed oil (NOT raw linseed oil, OK?) does that ALL of these products won't do better, it just costs less. Not worth saving a few pennies, IMHO, even if it seems like it's the "natural" option that makes Mother Nature smile when you open a can...I assure you it's not her favorite baby, save it for the patio furniture. That, plus rags used with boiled Linseed oil are usually the cause of spontaneous combustion fires in your trash can (you must soak the rags in a bucket of water), and Ma Nature hates it when you burn down her trees. I only like WD40 to clean and displace the moisture (that's why it's called WaterDisplacing40) BEFORE applying a waxy-oil, WD40 is pretty useless for anything else. The rust "converters" that are basically latex paint with a phosphoric acid in them won't flow well enough to get into the crevices inside a frame where you need the rust killed, I don't use them. If you have a stripped frame where preserving paint isn't a concern, try a thin-bodied phosphoric acid liquid like SEM Rust Mort, it converts iron oxide to an iron phosphate without the latex goop...and THEN spray it with Framesaver...your frame will live longer than any of us will.

frame saver it is!