Cleaning up the Classics
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Bikes: 200x Coppi w DuraAce 9, 82 Schwinn Voyager 11.2, 2004 DeBernardi Track, 83 Centurion Elite RS, and some others.
Cleaning up the Classics
Inviting tips and tricks for cleaning up neglected roadbikes. Just picked up a Centurion Elite for $48, but the previous owner must have left it in the rain. There are little spots of rust around the cable guides on the top tube.
I'm sure I'm not the only one to find a neglected classic in need of TLC. What are the tricks for putting em back on the road without sandblasting and powdercoating? What parts do you disassemble and rebuild, or replace? What do you look for when inspecting parts?
Paul
I'm sure I'm not the only one to find a neglected classic in need of TLC. What are the tricks for putting em back on the road without sandblasting and powdercoating? What parts do you disassemble and rebuild, or replace? What do you look for when inspecting parts?
Paul
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
I'm new here, but this is what I came looking for.
What I like to do is leave the whole thing as intact, or as original, as possible.
If the rust isn't too bad, get rid of it, and repaint those spots (practice on something else before you do the real thing). Set the frame aside and get to work on the parts. Do a thorough cleaning with a lite solvent (gas or kerosene--without igniting anything!) then wash it all off with a little dish soapy water. Then just start in on disassembling, cleaning, inspecting each, usually starting with the simplest.
When you inspect, look for tiny cracks, splits, bad threads, anything thats not the way it seems it should be. If the nuts and bolts and springs etc are still good, use them again.
If need be, a little lite filing with a lite file, then 1200 grit sand paper (dont go nuts with this!) then rub-a-dub with polishing compound.
Different people like different lubes, and thats a topic for another thread, I think.
Springs are tricky, so maybe take a photo, draw a picture, memorize the part before you disassemble; it might be a few days before you get back to reassembly of the part.
If a part is too trashed to use again, and you want to stay true to the bike or era of the bike, many LBS have used part bins you can rummage through.
When youre all done with it, show it off! If the era is right, wear your woolies, use your toe straps, maybe even that old leather hairnet!
What I like to do is leave the whole thing as intact, or as original, as possible.
If the rust isn't too bad, get rid of it, and repaint those spots (practice on something else before you do the real thing). Set the frame aside and get to work on the parts. Do a thorough cleaning with a lite solvent (gas or kerosene--without igniting anything!) then wash it all off with a little dish soapy water. Then just start in on disassembling, cleaning, inspecting each, usually starting with the simplest.
When you inspect, look for tiny cracks, splits, bad threads, anything thats not the way it seems it should be. If the nuts and bolts and springs etc are still good, use them again.
If need be, a little lite filing with a lite file, then 1200 grit sand paper (dont go nuts with this!) then rub-a-dub with polishing compound.
Different people like different lubes, and thats a topic for another thread, I think.
Springs are tricky, so maybe take a photo, draw a picture, memorize the part before you disassemble; it might be a few days before you get back to reassembly of the part.
If a part is too trashed to use again, and you want to stay true to the bike or era of the bike, many LBS have used part bins you can rummage through.
When youre all done with it, show it off! If the era is right, wear your woolies, use your toe straps, maybe even that old leather hairnet!
#3
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,398
Likes: 1,865
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
This is a very timely post, since I want to keep my 1960 Capo as original as possible, including the paint. (The 1959 Capo is a CyclArt repaint with upgraded components; it is great and stunning looking in its own right, but different from a cleaned up OEM machine.) I will have to repaint the head tube.
I have had good luck with automotive brake cleaner for general parts cleanup. I tore the wheels down to the Campag. hub shells, which took a fabulous shine after 46 years.
I have had good luck with automotive brake cleaner for general parts cleanup. I tore the wheels down to the Campag. hub shells, which took a fabulous shine after 46 years.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#4
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,398
Likes: 1,865
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Originally Posted by chromedome
What I like to do is leave the whole thing as intact, or as original, as possible. ... When youre all done with it, show it off! If the era is right, wear your woolies, use your toe straps, maybe even that old leather hairnet!
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
John E is right about the helmet. Seriously wrong thing for me to suggest. My hairnet has been in a box with other junk for 20 yrs.
I'm having a hard time finding toe strap tips. Any ideas? Do I have to make my own? And I dont ebay.
I'm having a hard time finding toe strap tips. Any ideas? Do I have to make my own? And I dont ebay.
#6
SCUL pilot Fixie
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Boston
Bikes: giant fix gear, recumbant, bianchi road, fuji mt bike, raliegh 3 speed, ross chopper, unicycle
One trick I found is if you remove the little rust spots you have a choice as to what to do then with the spot. Some folks like to leave it a bare metal spot, others like to try and paint match it. If you want to try and paint match it fingernail polish is the way to go. It can be found in just about any color you might want, and is a pretty damned protective coat. otherwise just clear coat your metal spot so the rust doesn't come right back.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 6
From: Hills of Iowa
Bikes: all diamond frames
Originally Posted by chromedome
John E is right about the helmet. Seriously wrong thing for me to suggest. My hairnet has been in a box with other junk for 20 yrs.
I'm having a hard time finding toe strap tips. Any ideas? Do I have to make my own? And I dont ebay.
I'm having a hard time finding toe strap tips. Any ideas? Do I have to make my own? And I dont ebay.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,366
Likes: 629
From: Soviet of Oregon or Pensacola FL
Bikes: Still have a few left!
"a thorough cleaning with a lite solvent (gas or kerosene--without igniting anything!) "
It's never a good idea to use gasoline for cleaning, the risk of ignition is to great! Use a slow solvent or a detergent.
It's never a good idea to use gasoline for cleaning, the risk of ignition is to great! Use a slow solvent or a detergent.
#10
Yet another vegan biker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 965
Likes: 6
From: Trapped behind the corn curtain
Bikes: Sakae Prism, Vintage Fuji bike(S), too many bikes, one from scratch bike.
If the rust is in unpainted chrome or aluminum parts then I use a light touch with a fine stainless or brass brush in my dremel.
I confess to sometimes using my jewelers rouge on my bike parts. I once filed-sanded-polished a set of Dia Compe 500's to a Campy-like finish.
I confess to sometimes using my jewelers rouge on my bike parts. I once filed-sanded-polished a set of Dia Compe 500's to a Campy-like finish.
#11
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,398
Likes: 1,865
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Simichrome was very popular when my high school buddies and I were fixing up bikes in the late 1960s. I just bought a tube; we'll see how it works.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069





