Oil For An S-A hub?
#1
On the road
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
Oil For An S-A hub?
Any suggestions on the best oil for my S-A 3 speed hub. I have used 3 in 1 Oil for several years now and the current stock I have of it is running out. An suggestions on replacing it? I heard Singer Sewing Oil was the best choice. Better than 3 in 1? I suppose 3 in 1 is pretty light stuff. Any ideas?
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#2
Banned.
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Anti Social Media-Land
Posts: 3,078
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
I use Singer Sewing Machine Oil for my bikes for many years. The old British three speed that I have now is only oiled-including the Sturmey Archer AW hub-with sewing machine oil. A few drops every 2 weeks to a month should do it (more often in wet weather). The sewing machine is a highly complex, high running machine. I have sewn on both professional industrial sewing machines as well as domestic (home) sewing machines and the oil both lubercates and protects the delicate mechanism that can fail if not properly protected by the oil. My bikes are babied as well since I need both to make a living.
#3
On the road
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
I'm having a hard time locating Singer Sewing Machine Oil here in DC. Anyone have any leads?
Also I found a bottle of "Gunk Brand Super Oil". It says "Premium Household Oil". It lists Sewing Machines and bicycles on the back as possible uses. It's made by the makers of Liquid Wrench apparently. Anyone familiar with this stuff? Is this like 3 in 1 or is this like Sewing Machine oil? It says on the back "Contains Petroleum Distillates 64742-536.
Also I found a bottle of "Gunk Brand Super Oil". It says "Premium Household Oil". It lists Sewing Machines and bicycles on the back as possible uses. It's made by the makers of Liquid Wrench apparently. Anyone familiar with this stuff? Is this like 3 in 1 or is this like Sewing Machine oil? It says on the back "Contains Petroleum Distillates 64742-536.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#4
www.theheadbadge.com
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,513
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,395 Times
in
2,092 Posts
Never mind the Singer stuff - too thin.
SA's recommendations from the '79 Raleigh Owners Manual specify 20-weight motor oil as a substitute to Genuine S-A oil.
I figure 20-weight ought to be good for the summer months - but come winter, you might rather put 10-15 weight in it.
-Kurt
SA's recommendations from the '79 Raleigh Owners Manual specify 20-weight motor oil as a substitute to Genuine S-A oil.
I figure 20-weight ought to be good for the summer months - but come winter, you might rather put 10-15 weight in it.
-Kurt
#5
On the road
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
Ah sounds good. Bet that's easier to find than the sewing oil too. Any preference between 15 and 20 weight? I'm guessing the usual amount of a couple drops every 2 weeks or so would be fine with either. This would be SAE 20 or would this be a detergent 10W 30 or the like?
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 24 Times
in
11 Posts
Originally Posted by SirMike1983
Ah sounds good. Bet that's easier to find than the sewing oil too. Any preference between 15 and 20 weight? I'm guessing the usual amount of a couple drops every 2 weeks or so would be fine with either. This would be SAE 20 or would this be a detergent 10W 30 or the like?
Once I tried Phil Wood grease in the channels and Mobil 1 in the hub. Drooled out all over the place on the 1st ride. BTW despite rain and really slippery goo on the rims my Moulton stopped OK due to non-anodized alloy rims and KoolStop Salmon brake pads.
Later hub manuals recommend a special SA grease instead of oil. Anyone know what this stuff is like? I'd like to try LubriPlate Aero. At $7/oz it stays thin well below zero F, but never gets runny.
How many of you add oil on a monthly basis? I rarely think of it, but never have problems. I might be the sort who would be better off with grease.
#7
Senior Member
I have a lever operated oil can oil can that squirts pretty good. 2 squirts is a teaspoon, so I put that in the hub about every 2 months.
I can't get the cottered cranks off my bike, so I run a tube down the seat tube to the bottom bracket and oil the bearings that way.
I can't get the cottered cranks off my bike, so I run a tube down the seat tube to the bottom bracket and oil the bearings that way.
#8
On the road
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
How has the 10 W 30 been for you over the long run? I'm not sure what detergent oils would do differently to a bike hub but I'm always curious about these little things since I plan on running my bikes over the course of years.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 24 Times
in
11 Posts
Originally Posted by SirMike1983
How has the 10 W 30 been for you over the long run?
#10
Fossil
My understanding of detergent motor oils is that they keep dirt in suspension rather than letting it settle into the low places. I'm not sure if that's a good thing for a bike hub or even how it works at low temperatures. Certainly, no bike hub would reach anything like the crankcase temperatures of an internal combustion engine. Also, bike hubs have no oil filters, being pretty much "total loss" lubrication systems. I use a straight 30 weight, non-detergent motor oil in my hubs, just a few drops from a squirt can every month or so. Too much and the spokes get oily.
#11
On the road
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
I had some issues with shifting problems when I used SAE 30 last summer. It may have been too thick for the 30+ year old hub I was using. If 20 weight is, indeed, the match for S-A hub oil I would think SAE 20 would match up as the proper single weight. The problem is I haven't been able to locate any SAE 20. I figured 10 W 30 would come somewhat close. If I recall (correct me if I'm off on motor oil info) at low temp the 10 W 30 will be have as a 10-15 weight oil and at high temp is will behave no thinner than a 30 weight would. I figure 10-15 runs a little bit light but it isn't too bad considering the age of the hub. As for the dirt and suspension, I'm not sure what exactly that would do. There's probably plenty of dirt in there as it is. 10 W 30 has been working okay over the past few days (I put maybe 3 drops in a few days ago). I wanted to use SAE 20, but again it's not a common oil apparently these days.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#13
Senior Member
I've heard that motor oil has detergents and additives that gum up over time and thus would make those delicate 3-speed parts stick. I use turbine oil - you can find it in hardware stores. It comes in a flexible plastic bottle with a long spout for reaching in tight places. Turbine oil is formulated for electric motors and won't gum up over time.
#14
www.theheadbadge.com
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,513
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,395 Times
in
2,092 Posts
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,258
Bikes: Classic lugged-steel road, touring, shopping, semi-recumbent, gravel
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times
in
32 Posts
I'm running automatic transmission fluid in one of my S-A equipped bikes, 10W-30 in the other. I'm also building up a third S-A bike. Wonder what I should use in that?
#16
On the road
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
Originally Posted by climbinrocks
whatever....phil wood calls it an oil....and it seems to work pretty well around here
It is indeed marketed as an oil, if I recall. I have no experience with it though so I don't know how it compares to other oils or to the 20 weight standard. I know the Phil Wood grease products are highly rated though.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by bikemeister
I've heard that motor oil has detergents and additives that gum up over time and thus would make those delicate 3-speed parts stick. I use turbine oil - you can find it in hardware stores. It comes in a flexible plastic bottle with a long spout for reaching in tight places. Turbine oil is formulated for electric motors and won't gum up over time.
What weight do you use?