I am looking for a good deal on a used road bike in the SF Bay Area. I am 5'8", have a budget of $100-$200 and would like a solid bike for commuting to work a few miles away. I am entirely new to biking and wary of getting ripped off. Can you guys help a newbie find some good deals on ebay or craigslist?

I think you might want to post in the commuting section as well. How far is the commute? Is it mostly city roads or bike trails? My experience suggests a hybrid or even a mountain bike tends to be better for a day after day commute. The wider tires help. Having said that, you can also look to older Schwinns from the 1970s and 1980s. The varsities, travelers (I own on of these), world sports and so forth can be found for your price range and tend to be very solid bikes. With a little effort you can find an older Schwinn, clean it up, ask a bike store to tune it up and be pretty close to your price range. In fact, checking out a few LBS might be worth your effort as well.

Hope that helps a bit to get you started.

The first thing you should do is measure your inseam. Here's how: Determine your proper frame size. You can choose to do the calculations on that page if you wish, but all you really need to know is your inseam size (leg insem, not pnats inseam). Once you know that, you'll be able to figure out which bikes will maybe fit, and which bikes won't. Then when you see ads for used bikes, you'll know if the bike is in the right size range for you.

I'm also 5'8", and I have a 32 inch inseam, which means I should be looking at bikes with a 31 inch or smaller standover height. I ride a 23" Motobecane, but could go down to a 21", according to that link I gave you. So I would say for me, the range I can ride is between 21" and 23". As long as you have 1-2 inches of gap between the top tube and you on standover, you'll be fine.

One more thing on size: Different bikes with the same nominal size will have diffferent standover heights, so you can't just assume that because a size-- say 21"-- is "your size" that all 21" bikes will be the same size. You will still need to check for fit. The value of knowing your size is that you can rule out all the bikes that are obviously too small or too big.

Also, different manufacturers measure their sizes differently. Some measure the frame from center of the crank to center of the top tube (c - c), and some measure from center of the crank to top of the seat tube (c - t). So when a bike is sized at say 21", you need to know what measurement method was used.

Finally, some vintage bikes will be sized in inches, and some in centimeters. You'll need to know your size in both inches and centimeters. The conversion rate is 2.54 centimeters per inch. You can also find metirc conversion calculators online.

Good luck!

Once you've figured out what size bike you should be looking for, you'll need to know the difference between different types of construction. You have a choice between steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, and titanium. I don't know anything about titanium, so I can't speak about its good points and bad points, except to say that it's very light. Aluminum is also very light, as is carbon fiber. The downsides of aluminum are that it gives a harsher ride than steel, and that it develops stress fractures that eventually will break the frame. Buying a used aluminum bike is a huge gamble, because you don't know how hard it's been ridden, and thus, you don't know how close to structural failure the frame is. The same structural failure problem applies to carbon fiber.

Then there's steel. It lasts and lasts and lasts, and the better grades of stel are as light as the aluminum and carbon fiber bikes. A steel frame will not develop stress fractures the way carbon and aluminum frames will, so you can use it year after year after year without worry.

There are different grades of steel, ranging from heavy high tensile (hi-ten, known derisively as "gaspipe"), to high carbon steel, to the top grades of butted Chrome-molybdenum or Manganese-Molybdenum alloys. These last two are the most desirable grades of steel bikes. Butted tubing means that the tubing thickness varies, with a thinner gauge in the middle to cut the weight, and heavier gauges at the ends, where the stress points are. Butted tubing can be single-butted, double-butted, triple-butted, or quad-butted. Single-butted is thicker at one end, and thinner at the other end. Double-butted is thicker at the ends, and thinner in the center. Triple-butted is thinner in the center, and has two different thickness at the ends. Quad-butted has two different thicknesses in the center, and two different thicknesses at the ends.

You also need to look at the construction: was the frame lugged and brazed, or was it welded? A lugged frame is one that has the frame tubes inserted into lugs, or sleeves, and brazed. A welded frame has the tubes welded directly to each other. Some wleded frames are high quality, some are very low quality. High-quality welded frames should have smooth angles where the tubes meet; low-quality welded frames will have sharp angles where the tubes meet. Somebody else here will need to fill you in on the merits of different types of welded frames.

Generally speaking, a high-quality vintage bike will have a butted Chromoly lugged steel frame.

Then ther's the question of which manufacturer. I haven't ridden a Japanese bike, but from what I've read here, they made very high quality bikes, and i would seriously consider looking at Japanese bikes. I have ridden French-- I have a Motobecane, and love it.

However, there are a few idiosyncrasies that you need to be aware of. French bikes willl have either French thread or Swiss thread bottom brackets, which many bike shops don't know how to service. They can be serviced, just be aware that some bike shops are more competent than other bike shops. The other service issue with vintage bikes that bike shops raise is that they have freewheels, rather than freehubs. That's not a real problem either, but some bike shops will make it seem like it's an issue.

One more thing: you need to know the difference between different types of frames. Stay away from racing frames-- you won't be able to commute comfortably on them. You will want either a sport touring frame, or a touring frame. There's a difference between the two. Basically, a racing frame has upright angles on the head and seat tubes, and a short wheelbase (less than 40"). A touring frame has less upright angles, and a long wheelbase (41-42 inches). A sport touring frame is in-between. A sport touring or a touring frame should have brazed-on fittings for attaching fenders, racks, and water bottles, all of which will be useful for commuting. Many people advertise their used sport touring bikes as "touring bikes," when in fact they're sport tourers. Even my Motobecane, which has "Grand Touring" silkscreened on the top tube, is a sport tourer. The difference is that a real touring bike will be more comfortable and more stable carrying 50 plus pounds of luggage long distances day after day, while a sport tourer can carry a moderate amount of luggage long distances, but will have more crisp handling.

$100-$200 may not net much in the SF Bay area, I dunno, we've some regular posters from there; it seems like the prices are generally higher fof decent stuff.

I'd avoid the electro-forged Schwinns (Varsitys, in particular) because they weigh a ton. You'll notice it if you have hills on your commute. Plus, see (1) below.

Aside from the sizing info, here's some tips:

1) Avoid steel rims. Although they can be upgraded, they're heavy, and the upgrade may cost more than the bike. Weight on the edge of the wheel has a disproportiate affect on a bike. In addition, steel rims result in poor braking, except in wet weather, when they result in no braking. If in doubt, use a magnet.

2) Most bikes in your range are gonna be steel framed anyhoo. Look for tubing stickers, generally anything double butted isn't a bad sign.

3) In my expereince, LBSs vary wildly in response to older bikes. Some will just try to sell you a new bike, as you used one is woefully inadequate (it's not). Some will be clueless about various repair issues, because they never see cotter pins or French threadings or old Raleighs or Three speed hubs or whatever. Ask around locally, some commuters and riders can prolly make decent recomendations.

4) Try to get a bike with cotterless three piece cranks. Easier to overhaul for most shops and for newbies, assuming you'd like to work on it yourself.

5) If it's on CL and they don't let you ride it first, don't buy it.

6) Buy a good repair manual. Zinn and the art of Road Bike Maintenance is fine. However, old editions of Richard's Bicycle Book (Ballantine books) have an excellent basic repair section, showing how to handle most jobs with basic tools. I also liked Bill Walton's Complete book of Bicycling (yes, that Bill Walton) but it's not as easy to find.

Here's a great bike: Miyata

It looks like it'll be too big for you, though. Still, it should give you some idea of what to look for, and what you can get in your price range.

This Raleigh may be a bit large (can't tell), but it looks like your size, and along the lines of what you're looking for. If the blue bike is the Grand Prix, it's a good bike for the price; if it's the Super Course, it's a great bike for a great price, and It will sell fast.

I'm 5'9" with a Grand Prix from the same era, and it's a 21". The men's frame is probably a 23". Unless you have really long legs (in relation to your torso), then it's not going to fit you. I've bought tons of lugged steel vintage bikes here in NYC, and the going rate for a decent one with aluminum wheels starts at $100. I think that the Bay Area's going to be similar, though maybe a bit cheaper. In your price range, you'll be able to get something really decent there, I'd expect. Also might want to try garage sales and thrift stores, especially in areas like Orinda, Walnut Creek and other affluent 'burbs.

If you find something nice with steel wheels, then it should cost you less than $100 ($50-$75.) So those Raleighs are right on the money. I bought mine for $50, and changed out the wheels. Actually converted it to fixed gear (no deraillers), and it's really nice and light. Only spend time on this because those are some of the most common vintage bikes out there, and because of that, they tend to garner lower prices.

If you're patient and diligent (check, re-check CL every few hours--once you start, it becomes second-nature, right after e-mail), then you will find some very nice deals. You just have to be very quick about responding to new posts.

When looking at pics online, even if the person doesn't know how to measure the bike, you can roughly eyeball by looking at the headtube (where the stem enters and the fork emerges.) For someone in your size range, this should be close to just a meeting point for the two other tubes, with no more than 2-3" in length.

I recommend going and checking out bikes that may not fit but look nice, just to get an idea of what to look at.

Thing with vintage bikes is that you often buy them and have to spend money on getting them back up to snuff. That's okay, but you should be able to calculate that a bit. Learn to measure the chain length, look at the trueness of the wheels (very important--I've been screwed when I missed this) and--VERY important, VERY IMPORTANT: make sure that the seatpost is not stuck in the seattube! If it is, then you either should walk away, or plan on getting someone to help you and spending some dough. Haggle the price waaay down. But really, in your position, unless you've found some amazing gem, walk away. Stuck seatposts just aren't worth the hassle, esp. if you're a newbie.

But a new chain will cost you 15-20 bucks, and wheels may be so messed up that they have to be replaced. Wheels are expensive to replace. And if you need new tires, that will probably cost you minimum 20 bucks.

There's tons more we could each share, but some of this will just come with experience. Do not let people tell you that it can't be done, though. It makes for worthwhile learning.

I'm 5'8" and ride a 23". All you need is 1 -2" of space between the top bar and your body.

Thanks for all the detailed responses. This is great help. A bit more info for those who asked: The commute is roughly 1.5-2 miles, all city roads, and only one hill in the way. My roommate says his bike is a 53cm and it fits great. I think I'll look for something in that range.

If you wouldn't mind, a few more craigslist examples would help a bunch. I've started to look twice a day for about a week now and no luck yet. I'll be sure to post once I find something.

Not arguing with you about the space. All the discrepancy in our measurements show is the range of inseam lengths that exist. I know that I have a long torso, but from checking for bikes for several 6'+ friends recently, I'd say you definitely have very long legs. Most of my friends who are 6', 6'1/6'2 barely get over 22" frames, let alone 23". I wouldn't assume that an 'average' 5'8" tall male is going to be able to straddle the top tube of a 23" bike--I've had a number of different examples lately prove otherwise to me.

[QUOTE=Blue Order] Aluminum is also very light, as is carbon fiber. The downsides of aluminum are that it gives a harsher ride than steel, and that it develops stress fractures that eventually will break the frame. Buying a used aluminum bike is a huge gamble, because you don't know how hard it's been ridden, and thus, you don't know how close to structural failure the frame is. The same structural failure problem applies to carbon fiber.

I have a Steel Bianchi with 700x23 wheels, and an Aluminum Raleigh Technium with 27x11/4 wheels, and the Raleigh definitely rides smoother. There is a lot more involved in ride quality than just frame material.
I also have a new Giant aluminum with a carbon fork, and the ride quality is excellent. My girlfriends Trek 1000 also rides very nice. My all steel 78 Paramount also rides very nice. Maybe it is design, and not frame material at all.

[QUOTE=Blue Order] Then there's steel. It lasts and lasts and lasts, and the better grades of stel are as light as the aluminum and carbon fiber bikes. A steel frame will not develop stress fractures the way carbon and aluminum frames will, so you can use it year after year after year without worry.

You forgot to mention that steel frames rust.

[QUOTE=crazyb][QUOTE=Blue Order] Aluminum is also very light, as is carbon fiber. The downsides of aluminum are that it gives a harsher ride than steel, and that it develops stress fractures that eventually will break the frame. Buying a used aluminum bike is a huge gamble, because you don't know how hard it's been ridden, and thus, you don't know how close to structural failure the frame is. The same structural failure problem applies to carbon fiber.

I have a Steel Bianchi with 700x23 wheels, and an Aluminum Raleigh Technium with 27x11/4 wheels, and the Raleigh definitely rides smoother. There is a lot more involved in ride quality than just frame material.
I also have a new Giant aluminum with a carbon fork, and the ride quality is excellent. My girlfriends Trek 1000 also rides very nice. My all steel 78 Paramount also rides very nice. Maybe it is design, and not frame material at all.


All these discussions about frame material ignore the fact that the OP wants a nice bike for $200 max. That's not going to get you a used carbon fiber, titanium frame, and it MAY get you a beat up and possibly cracked Cannondale that's 20 years old. Aluminum can be assumed to have a shorter lifespan than steel, unless the steel has significantly degraded (a LOT of rust), or the Aluminum has barely been ridden. I wouldn't bet on either of those possibilities in a hot seller's market like the Bay Area. Sticking with steel (esp. CroMo or better) will just make it easier to find something that's going to be a non-ripoff.

I dunno if the assessment of aluminum is completely fair. It is true that aluminum has zero fatigue limit, meaning that if it flexes it will work harden, but most modern aluminum bikes are designed specifically to have no flex at all. Thus the very stiff ride...and some people like that. I had a dealer demonstrate the concept to me by laying a bare cannondale frame on the floor and standing on the chainstay. No flex. Do not try that with your steelie.

Yep.

One more point on steel-- my Motobecane is 29 years old, and doesn't have a spot of rust on her. Steel only rusts if it hasn't been cared for.

I would strongly urge the newbie to check out that Raleigh. Straddle the bike and lift it off the ground. If you've got one to two inches of clearance between the wheels and the ground, the bike will fit. If not, keep looking. There are two reasons for doing this. First, two different 23" frames will have different standover heights. Second, if that is a Raleigh Super Course for $75, and if it fits, it's a great price on a great bike, and definitely worth buying.

Here's a decent bike at a decent price: Gitane $50. No telling if it's the rights size, though. Gotta love incomplete ads.

Here are a few more: 53-54cm Univega, Miyata, Raleigh Road Bikes

Thanks for all the suggestions. Still looking around for a bike. I was shooting to have one by tomorrow's ride your bike to work day, but no luck. Maybe next year?

A little late for Bike To Work Day, but here's a $100 Peugeot, a $225 KHS, and a $285 Specialized:
https://www.craigslist.org/eby/bik/161990960.html
https://www.craigslist.org/eby/bik/162004976.html
https://www.craigslist.org/eby/bik/162000768.html

Come to think of it, I've got a 21" Peugeot 10 speed in the garage that you might be interested in. Don't know the model, but it has stem shifters and a frame made of 103 tubing. It is complete, but needs overhauling - tape, tires, tubes, saddle, and a good cleaning. I've got everything but the time to get it running. PM me if you're interested - I live in the East Bay.