Center Pull vs Side Pull
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 532
Likes: 5
Maybe. Depends on the model of Shimano and the model of centerpull, but the tire to crown or bridge dimension will not change, one can change the rear slightly if the bike has horizontal dropouts and the wheel is adjusted back. Mafacs are more "open" then the Weinmann and Dia Compe which are almost identical model for model.
#3
www.theheadbadge.com



Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 29,005
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From: Southern Florida
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Depending on your brake pads and rim, you might need to put a spacer on your pads to bring them closer to the braking surface when using centerpulls.
More often then not, I've found that most pads of the traditional design will hit the rim at a considerably incorrect angle (and provide terrible braking power) if not equipped with a 1/8" spacer.
Take care,
-Kurt
More often then not, I've found that most pads of the traditional design will hit the rim at a considerably incorrect angle (and provide terrible braking power) if not equipped with a 1/8" spacer.
Take care,
-Kurt
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,176
Likes: 56
From: Clev Oh
Bikes: Specialized, Schwinn
This is the bike. https://69.16.211.161/showthread.php?t=197356 After looking real close, I can see that the rear brake bridge is the limiting factor. I was hoping to put taller tires on the Schwinn like the Waterford in the photo.
Tim
Tim
#5
Related question:
I've got some old Dia-Compe cantilevers ('83) on my Centurion, and I was thinking of trying to swap out the 27" wheels for 26" or 700cs so I could add fenders and winter studded tires. Since one can't adjust pads up and down with cantilevers, is this impossible?
I've got some old Dia-Compe cantilevers ('83) on my Centurion, and I was thinking of trying to swap out the 27" wheels for 26" or 700cs so I could add fenders and winter studded tires. Since one can't adjust pads up and down with cantilevers, is this impossible?
#6
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,397
Likes: 1,864
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Use KoolStop pads. They come with versatile spacers and long bolts, making them easy to adapt to any brake caliper.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
Decrepit Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,488
Likes: 92
From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
Originally Posted by John E
Use KoolStop pads. They come with versatile spacers and long bolts, making them easy to adapt to any brake caliper.
#8
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 9
From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
There were a couple of different models of the standard old Weinmann "999 Vainqueur" center-pulls. The 610 had shorter reach arms (49-61mm) and the 750 had longer arms (57-75mm) - Those are the measurements from the middle of the central pivot bolt to the centers of the brake pads. Dia-Compes are basically identical. Perhaps that will help you calculate where the pads will hit your rims.
Remember, 700c rims are smaller than 27" rims. If you are using 700c rims, the brake pads will need to reach down 4mm lower than they would for a 27" rim. This also means you will "gain" 4mm of potential tire height when using a 700c wheel in the same frame, so it may help you with fender clearance... but just a tiny bit.
There was one problem people have had when fitting older Weinmann brake pads. One style was cut at an angle for use with rims with sloping sides - typically 1970s 27" chrome rims or smaller BMX rims had a slanted braking surface. There were also pads which were cut with a normal flat edge, and these will fit most moderate width flat sided rims. Dia-Compe still made the slant-cut pads (as of 2005) which were designated their "#76" style.
Weinmann actually still made their last flat-cut pads until just a few years ago. They were known as the "WX" pads. I believe they simply let their patent go on these, and subsequently a Taiwan company called Jagwire began producing their own identical copies of these which they call their "X-caliper" pads. Nothing fancy, but they fit perfectly and seem to work well. I've also seen "similar looking" pads made by another budget company (possibly "Pyramid"?) recently. But these are smaller overall and are really to be avoided. The better stuff measure around 40 x 14mm (around the metal holders) and will reach down around 18mm measuring from inside the caliper arm to the braking surface of the pad.
As for braking efficiency; I believe you will get more mechanical assist by using aero-style levers. I haven't had any problem stopping one of my Weinmann equipped commuter bikes in the crappiest of snow/rain weather conditions even using cheap-o pads. However, as John E suggested, the Kool Stop "Continental" pads with their grippy red compound are really superior to anything else.
Remember, 700c rims are smaller than 27" rims. If you are using 700c rims, the brake pads will need to reach down 4mm lower than they would for a 27" rim. This also means you will "gain" 4mm of potential tire height when using a 700c wheel in the same frame, so it may help you with fender clearance... but just a tiny bit.
There was one problem people have had when fitting older Weinmann brake pads. One style was cut at an angle for use with rims with sloping sides - typically 1970s 27" chrome rims or smaller BMX rims had a slanted braking surface. There were also pads which were cut with a normal flat edge, and these will fit most moderate width flat sided rims. Dia-Compe still made the slant-cut pads (as of 2005) which were designated their "#76" style.
Weinmann actually still made their last flat-cut pads until just a few years ago. They were known as the "WX" pads. I believe they simply let their patent go on these, and subsequently a Taiwan company called Jagwire began producing their own identical copies of these which they call their "X-caliper" pads. Nothing fancy, but they fit perfectly and seem to work well. I've also seen "similar looking" pads made by another budget company (possibly "Pyramid"?) recently. But these are smaller overall and are really to be avoided. The better stuff measure around 40 x 14mm (around the metal holders) and will reach down around 18mm measuring from inside the caliper arm to the braking surface of the pad.
As for braking efficiency; I believe you will get more mechanical assist by using aero-style levers. I haven't had any problem stopping one of my Weinmann equipped commuter bikes in the crappiest of snow/rain weather conditions even using cheap-o pads. However, as John E suggested, the Kool Stop "Continental" pads with their grippy red compound are really superior to anything else.
#9
Death fork? Naaaah!!

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,530
Likes: 945
From: The other Maine, north of RT 2
Bikes: Seriously downsizing.
Originally Posted by peripatetic
Related question:
I've got some old Dia-Compe cantilevers ('83) on my Centurion, and I was thinking of trying to swap out the 27" wheels for 26" or 700cs so I could add fenders and winter studded tires. Since one can't adjust pads up and down with cantilevers, is this impossible?
I've got some old Dia-Compe cantilevers ('83) on my Centurion, and I was thinking of trying to swap out the 27" wheels for 26" or 700cs so I could add fenders and winter studded tires. Since one can't adjust pads up and down with cantilevers, is this impossible?
Top
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,176
Likes: 56
From: Clev Oh
Bikes: Specialized, Schwinn
Originally Posted by stronglight
There were a couple of different models of the standard old Weinmann "999 Vainqueur" center-pulls. The 610 had shorter reach arms (49-61mm) and the 750 had longer arms (57-75mm) - Those are the measurements from the middle of the central pivot bolt to the centers of the brake pads. Dia-Compes are basically identical. Perhaps that will help you calculate where the pads will hit your rims.
Remember, 700c rims are smaller than 27" rims. If you are using 700c rims, the brake pads will need to reach down 4mm lower than they would for a 27" rim. This also means you will "gain" 4mm of potential tire height when using a 700c wheel in the same frame, so it may help you with fender clearance... but just a tiny bit.
There was one problem people have had when fitting older Weinmann brake pads. One style was cut at an angle for use with rims with sloping sides - typically 1970s 27" chrome rims or smaller BMX rims had a slanted braking surface. There were also pads which were cut with a normal flat edge, and these will fit most moderate width flat sided rims. Dia-Compe still made the slant-cut pads (as of 2005) which were designated their "#76" style.
Weinmann actually still made their last flat-cut pads until just a few years ago. They were known as the "WX" pads. I believe they simply let their patent go on these, and subsequently a Taiwan company called Jagwire began producing their own identical copies of these which they call their "X-caliper" pads. Nothing fancy, but they fit perfectly and seem to work well. I've also seen "similar looking" pads made by another budget company (possibly "Pyramid"?) recently. But these are smaller overall and are really to be avoided. The better stuff measure around 40 x 14mm (around the metal holders) and will reach down around 18mm measuring from inside the caliper arm to the braking surface of the pad.
As for braking efficiency; I believe you will get more mechanical assist by using aero-style levers. I haven't had any problem stopping one of my Weinmann equipped commuter bikes in the crappiest of snow/rain weather conditions even using cheap-o pads. However, as John E suggested, the Kool Stop "Continental" pads with their grippy red compound are really superior to anything else.
Remember, 700c rims are smaller than 27" rims. If you are using 700c rims, the brake pads will need to reach down 4mm lower than they would for a 27" rim. This also means you will "gain" 4mm of potential tire height when using a 700c wheel in the same frame, so it may help you with fender clearance... but just a tiny bit.
There was one problem people have had when fitting older Weinmann brake pads. One style was cut at an angle for use with rims with sloping sides - typically 1970s 27" chrome rims or smaller BMX rims had a slanted braking surface. There were also pads which were cut with a normal flat edge, and these will fit most moderate width flat sided rims. Dia-Compe still made the slant-cut pads (as of 2005) which were designated their "#76" style.
Weinmann actually still made their last flat-cut pads until just a few years ago. They were known as the "WX" pads. I believe they simply let their patent go on these, and subsequently a Taiwan company called Jagwire began producing their own identical copies of these which they call their "X-caliper" pads. Nothing fancy, but they fit perfectly and seem to work well. I've also seen "similar looking" pads made by another budget company (possibly "Pyramid"?) recently. But these are smaller overall and are really to be avoided. The better stuff measure around 40 x 14mm (around the metal holders) and will reach down around 18mm measuring from inside the caliper arm to the braking surface of the pad.
As for braking efficiency; I believe you will get more mechanical assist by using aero-style levers. I haven't had any problem stopping one of my Weinmann equipped commuter bikes in the crappiest of snow/rain weather conditions even using cheap-o pads. However, as John E suggested, the Kool Stop "Continental" pads with their grippy red compound are really superior to anything else.
Tim
#11
Crawlin' up, flyin' down


Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,726
Likes: 4,374
From: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
Originally Posted by cs1
Excellent information, I am thinking seriously about trying a 650B conversion on that bike. It would probably need some long pull brakes. The 999 are plentiful on ebay. the 610 less so. I can't ever recall seeing any of the 750 though. Did DiaCompe make an equivalent version?
Tim
Tim
episode with the original pads was one too many for my taste.You will also have to have either brake levers or cable hangers with built-in "quick release" devices because the Dia-Compes (like Weinmanns and unlike Mafacs, which may also work) have no way built into the caliper unit itself to widen the calipers for removing the wheel. Riv has a couple of possible brake lever options for that too. One is a Dia-Compe standard lever (i.e., non-aero, cable-out-the-top) and the other is a Campy Ergo copy, except without the brifter gear-shifting capability. Shimano and Dia-Compe aero levers I have owned or seen do not have quick releases built in, so they are likely not an option for you, unless there is one or more models out there I haven't seen. As for cable hangers with quick releases, ask your LBS - odds are they have some knocking about.
BTW, Universal 61's would likely also work (but double check the reach measurements) and also show up on eBay reasonably often. (The 61's are center-pulls, the 51's mentioned above are sidepulls.) I am almost, but not quite, positive that all of the above info concerning lack of quick releases on the calipers themselves applies to the Universals, too. If I'm wrong on that, or anything else, I'm sure somebody will correct me.
#12
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 9
From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
Originally Posted by bikingshearer
"...I am almost, but not quite, positive that all of the above info concerning lack of quick releases on the calipers themselves applies to the Universals, too. If I'm wrong on that, or anything else, I'm sure somebody will correct me.
"
"Weinmann also offered some models of their levers with an integrated QR. This was a simple "push-in" tab, inserted just above the lever arms. Not as nice as or effective as what Dia-Compe had came up with on their levers by the mid-1970s, but it helped.
Universal's "Super 67" (pre-Campy) side-pulls had a really funky QR lever - sort of a long parallel bar - incorporated into the calipers. Funny how long it took the Italians to come up with something simple which actually worked... and, basically the same as what ALL side-pulls STILL use. [Thank You, Tulio!].
I guess the decades long fondness of the French for cyclo-touring really gave Mafac an edge when it came to realizing an utterly simple way disengage their straddle cables on both their cantilevers and centerpulls calipers... not to mention the simple tilt feature for aligning the pads with the rims - just like on all MTB brakes today.
Gee, ain't simple technological advances grand?
#13
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 9
From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
Originally Posted by stronglight
"...Universal's "Super 67" (pre-Campy) side-pulls had a really funky QR lever - sort of a long parallel bar - incorporated into the calipers."
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ADME:B:SS:US:1
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,176
Likes: 56
From: Clev Oh
Bikes: Specialized, Schwinn
Originally Posted by stronglight
Sorry to digress (again), but since I just mentioned it in my last posting... Check out these swell auction photos showing Universal's early sidepull QR mechanism. ~ Really not something I'd want on my calipers, but...
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ADME:B:SS:US:1
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ADME:B:SS:US:1
Tim
#15
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 9
From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
Originally Posted by cs1
...Only the Italians could complicate as simple a device as that. No wonder my wife says "your family makes everything so complicated."...
https://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-WEINMANN-605...QQcmdZViewItem
Although this was nearly a decade after Campy's flawlessly designed brakes, Weinmann tried to build their own "better mousetrap". What they came up with on these (not real clear in the photos) was a steel cage clamped around the "upper" caliper arm which, when released, dropped the threaded cable adjuster AND the threaded sleeve which it hung inside. Worked fine, but why do it this way? ~ Otherwise, these are great calipers. Note those clever, smooth operating, white nylon bushings. These fitted inside the bores for the center pivot bolts - and simultaneously isolated the caliper arms from each other, minimizing any friction between them, as well.
They eventually just made fine quality copies of the Campy calipers which they called the "Carrera" model... But, not until the '80s did they re-locate the QR on those to the customary lower caliper arm!
[As you can tell, I'm fascinated with the evolution of all the bike technology which we take for granted today.]
#16
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,176
Likes: 56
From: Clev Oh
Bikes: Specialized, Schwinn
Originally Posted by stronglight
Well, Not just the Italians... Weinmann was "stubbornly" Swiss. The seemed determined to come up with their own unique solutions - in spite of what other companies (ie: Campagnolo) had already perfected. In their "605" calipers from the late '70s the made their first attempt at a QR for their sidepulls - here's an example of them:
https://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-WEINMANN-605...QQcmdZViewItem
Although this was nearly a decade after Campy's flawlessly designed brakes, Weinmann tried to build their own "better mousetrap". What they came up with on these (not real clear in the photos) was a steel cage clamped around the "upper" caliper arm which, when released, dropped the threaded cable adjuster AND the threaded sleeve which it hung inside. Worked fine, but why do it this way? ~ Otherwise, these are great calipers. Note those clever, smooth operating, white nylon bushings. These fitted inside the bores for the center pivot bolts - and simultaneously isolated the caliper arms from each other, minimizing any friction between them, as well.
They eventually just made fine quality copies of the Campy calipers which they called the "Carrera" model... But, not until the '80s did they re-locate the QR on those to the customary lower caliper arm!
[As you can tell, I'm fascinated with the evolution of all the bike technology which we take for granted today.]
https://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-WEINMANN-605...QQcmdZViewItem
Although this was nearly a decade after Campy's flawlessly designed brakes, Weinmann tried to build their own "better mousetrap". What they came up with on these (not real clear in the photos) was a steel cage clamped around the "upper" caliper arm which, when released, dropped the threaded cable adjuster AND the threaded sleeve which it hung inside. Worked fine, but why do it this way? ~ Otherwise, these are great calipers. Note those clever, smooth operating, white nylon bushings. These fitted inside the bores for the center pivot bolts - and simultaneously isolated the caliper arms from each other, minimizing any friction between them, as well.
They eventually just made fine quality copies of the Campy calipers which they called the "Carrera" model... But, not until the '80s did they re-locate the QR on those to the customary lower caliper arm!
[As you can tell, I'm fascinated with the evolution of all the bike technology which we take for granted today.]
Tim
#17
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 9
From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
If anyone is considering an Aero lever conversion on one of their bikes you should check out the thread I just posted under "Best Aero Brake Levers?"... a real bargain clearance deal I came across when salvaging (again) for another of my own current projects.
#18
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 9
From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
If anyone is considering an Aero lever conversion on one of their bikes you should check out the thread I just posted under "Best Aero Brake Levers?"... a real bargain clearance deal I came across when salvaging (again) for another of my own current projects.








