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switching centerpull to caliper, no second stop

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switching centerpull to caliper, no second stop

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Old 07-10-06 | 11:34 PM
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switching centerpull to caliper, no second stop

Hey all, I want to switch out the centerpull brakes on my wife's letour to caliper but there is only one cable stop near the top of the downtube. I need a clamp on cable stop but all the ones I can find are dual stops for shift cables. I did find a campy single stop but it's $20 for one. A little pricey for a cheap metal stop. any ideas?

Also, since the frame is a mixtie, the brakes are currently mounted upside down on the "center" seat stay (not sure what that middle part is called on a mixtie). However, the upper seatstay has a drilled bridge for the reflector, a local mechanic suggested that I mount the new brakes there- thoughts?
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Old 07-11-06 | 06:29 AM
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Typically, the rear caliper brake on a mixte will pull from the bottom... like in the pic. Just something to keep in mind.
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Old 07-11-06 | 07:37 AM
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My wife's Raleigh mixte had a set of Shimano 600 sidepulls on it when I received it. The frame is set up for centerpulls with a brazed on hanger in the rear. The former owner had simply zip tied the rear brake cable to one of the two top tubes. I bought a set of Weimann sidepulls for $10 and restored the original setup. It looks much better now.
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Old 07-11-06 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Noah Scape
Typically, the rear caliper brake on a mixte will pull from the bottom... like in the pic. Just something to keep in mind.
The schwinn is set up in the middle on the extra stay, underneath. I'll try and post a pic this evening.
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Old 07-11-06 | 01:01 PM
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I thought you were suggesting moving the brake caliper to the upper seatstay bridge. In which case the bottom pull caliper does work best. Although I've seen many step-through or mixte frames with the cable snaking around to a top-pull caliper.

Personally, I'd stick with the centerpulls.
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Old 07-11-06 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Noah Scape
I thought you were suggesting moving the brake caliper to the upper seatstay bridge. In which case the bottom pull caliper does work best. Although I've seen many step-through or mixte frames with the cable snaking around to a top-pull caliper.

Personally, I'd stick with the centerpulls.
I was suggesting moving it. Wait, I'm starting to get confused. I'll post a pic with more info tonight to clear things up.
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Old 07-11-06 | 03:59 PM
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Bottom-pull cables, with the open end of their housing pointing up, collect water over time. Eventually the cable rusts and braking performance goes to crap. Since the mixte frame provides an alternative that won't act like a rain barrel, you may as well take advantage of it.
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Old 07-11-06 | 08:23 PM
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As promised. Here is a pic of the bike with questions. Hopefully this will make what I am trying to do more clear.

Last edited by seaneee; 10-29-06 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 07-11-06 | 08:34 PM
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If you are going to a sidepull, the center-stay mount may cause ankle interference. The upper mount with "normal" cable pull will have truly ugly cable routing, though.

But you didn't say "why" you wanted to change in the first place. If it's for more braking power, the centerpull with KoolStop Continental pads (Harris Cyclery or elsewhere) will give plenty of stop. No need to go to dual-pivot modern caliper on the rear - even Campagnolo have retreated from that.
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Old 07-11-06 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by seaneee
As promised. Here is a pic of the bike with questions. Hopefully this will make what I am trying to do more clear.

This rear mixte mount is one of the smoothest, most elegant around. See other post about KoolStop pads, but if you must fiddle with it per your original post seeking a cable stop, I'd stay skip the stops altogether and run full-length housing, zip-tied (color-coordinated, of course) to the tube. Works fine and keeps the cable from weather exposure.
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Old 07-11-06 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by austex
But you didn't say "why" you wanted to change in the first place. If it's for more braking power, the centerpull with KoolStop Continental pads (Harris Cyclery or elsewhere) will give plenty of stop. No need to go to dual-pivot modern caliper on the rear - even Campagnolo have retreated from that.
I was acting on the advice of my local mechanic. He checked out the bike and the brakes and steel rims were the two things he suggested I swap out. He's never misled me, so I found a inexpensive pair of Dia Compe SC's to swap out. Just trying to figure out the rest.
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Old 07-11-06 | 11:58 PM
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<<I was acting on the advice of my local mechanic. He checked out the bike and the brakes and steel rims were the two things he suggested I swap out. >>

No good reason to change the brakes. You are not going to end up with something better by changeing them. The alum rims are a nice improvement if one rides in the rain. If not I am not sure if I would bother with that either.
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Old 07-12-06 | 05:01 AM
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I'd keep the brakes and swap the rims, myself.
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Old 07-12-06 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by seaneee
As promised. Here is a pic of the bike with questions. Hopefully this will make what I am trying to do more clear.
I would leave the c-pulls on as they are. Here's why.

First off, as others have noted, moving the calipers up to the "normal" location will require the use of old-style bottom pull side-pulls. In the realm of side pulls, these are generally of lower quality. I think the DiaCompe/Weinmann c-pull caliper is greatly under appreciated and it is a significant, major really, step above the quality of any of the older side pulls that you will find that will allow for the reverse pull that you'll need. Lower quality side pulls deflect a lot under braking and are very hard to get and keep centered.

The other thing I don't like about the reverse pull set up on mixtes is that the brake cable housing collects water and rusts up fast just like the older FD cable housings.

The only comprimise that your current system will force upon is the longer yolk cable that it requires to clear the seat tube. This will reduce the mechanical advantage a bit but even so, those c-pull brakes are going to out perform any side pull you put on there.

If you want to improve braking performance, my suggestion is to replace the pads with salmon colored KookStop MTB style pads. These work great with c-pull brakes.
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Old 07-12-06 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by pinnah
I would leave the c-pulls on as they are. Here's why.

First off, as others have noted, moving the calipers up to the "normal" location will require the use of old-style bottom pull side-pulls. In the realm of side pulls, these are generally of lower quality. I think the DiaCompe/Weinmann c-pull caliper is greatly under appreciated and it is a significant, major really, step above the quality of any of the older side pulls that you will find that will allow for the reverse pull that you'll need. Lower quality side pulls deflect a lot under braking and are very hard to get and keep centered.

The other thing I don't like about the reverse pull set up on mixtes is that the brake cable housing collects water and rusts up fast just like the older FD cable housings.

The only comprimise that your current system will force upon is the longer yolk cable that it requires to clear the seat tube. This will reduce the mechanical advantage a bit but even so, those c-pull brakes are going to out perform any side pull you put on there.

If you want to improve braking performance, my suggestion is to replace the pads with salmon colored KookStop MTB style pads. These work great with c-pull brakes.
Sounds pretty convincing. Thank you. I'll give it a go with the current set-up and new pads. As for the pads, how will the MTB pads with with an alloy rim? (Is that a dumb question?) As I am going to swap the rims out since they are pretty beat up.

Thanks again for all the advice everyone.
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Old 07-12-06 | 09:33 PM
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Maybe you'll feel better about keeping the centerpulls after you read "Centerpulls Are Swell".

https://velo-orange.blogspot.com/

Last edited by Grand Bois; 07-13-06 at 08:06 AM.
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