Hi.

I am just getting into classic bike repair and found an older Raleigh at a rummage sale. It needed to be stripped and so that is what I did.
I've had it repainted, but I think I may have painted over the serial number before I could write it down. I also forgot to write down what style of Raleigh it is. If you've hit your head in disgust please remember I'm new to this and I am learning as I go.
My question is:
Can I still identify this bike? I have a stamp from the cranks "201 ND 66" Does this help me at all?
If anyone can help me identify this bike I would be thrilled. I am anxious to get new hardware on it, but want to be sure I'm buying the appropriate parts.
Thanks in advance for your help.

-brian

Unless the paint is "powdercoat thick" you should stll be able to read a serial number through it. But if not, just take some pics of the lugs, the bottom bracket, the dropouts, the rear cluster (where the seatpost goes in), and the fork crown and post them here. There are Raleigh experts who will know.

If you can post some pictures of the frame and other components, between the lot of us we can figure out what it is.

Fantastic! I will take some pics tonight.

-brian

What components came with/are on the bike?

Also, I have a powdercoated frame, and I can still read the serial number. I'd be surprised if you can't still read yours.

I think, like love, I was looking in all the wrong places for the serial. It was on the drop out.
097578 is what is stamped there. No letters though.
I took photos on my lunch break, and I will post them when I get home this evening.
Also, I believe all the parts are Raleigh. The cranks have a Raleigh stamp on them and the axle had "16GC" stamped in it.
Thanks for all your help.

-brian

Well, all the instances where the serial number has been placed on the dropouts of Raleigh bikes, it has turned out to be sometime around 1968 for a build date. I've heard of Grand Prix's and Super Course's with the serial number there. A picture will make short work of determining the model.

BB axles marked 16GC are the standard size for cottered BBs that went on 3-speeds. I just pulled one out of a '56 Humber Sports, actually. I don't know if that size would also be used on pre-1975ish road bikes with cottered cranksets.

I have a '71 Super Course with serial # on the left rear dropout and believe the early 70s builds can usually be identified that way. Of course, when it comes to Raleigh serial #s, confusion is usually the answer.

Neal

Ok, here come the photos.








Hopefully these can help. I didn't get one of the frame and fork together. If anyone thinks that would be more helpful I could take a shot of it tonight and post it. I also have a couple of other angles of these points, if you want to see another view.
I appreciate everyones help with this.

-brian

Raleigh Record. Judging from the original black panel on the headtube, 1973 to 1976.

Who painted it for you?

-Kurt

The guy who painted my Dad's Camaro painted it for me.
I don't think he's done bikez before. His heart wasn't in it, but he did a great job. There are a few runs and when I took the tape off the front, it cracked a little.
The color is actually the same color he painted the Camaro. It is a 69 Cadillac color. I can't remember the actual name, but I really love it and can't wait to get the bike together.
I was thinking of telling him he should consider doing bikes, but he doesn't live in a large metropolis and I don't think there is much demand in Sandusky, Ohio for bike painting.

-brian

It was a low-end model, but I got it for $1 at the rummage sale. Good first project.

Now that I have an idea of the date and model how should I go about finding the correct parts for it? Do I need to know more specifically what the date on this bike is? The original color was white.

One of my main concerns is the bottom bracket. The axle I pulled out was in good shape, but I've heard it is better to get an axle that will support cotterless cranks. Who has a good axle for this bike?
Also, what about bearings? Should I get them loose or in a cage (proper term?)?

Damn...so many questions. If anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it. Like I said, I am fairly new to this so I may have quite a few questions.

-brian

For the correct equipment go to Sheldon Browns site

www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/

and check for the retro raleigh site. There or in one of the links from there you will find a copy of the Raleigh catalog for the matching year. Usually a list of componentry(specs) is included. I would go for a original cottered crank as it was original. A period-correct cotterless crank would be an adequate upgrade and might be easier to find. Try ebay. As for the bb loose bearing-balls are technically better whereas caged ones are easier to put in. I do not know which was original but is supect ballcages were, due to industrial fabrication. The same applies to the steering bearings.
Pictures look like it could turn out to a nice project.

Nice colors. What you're looking for is a new spindle, not axle (difference being that an axle doesn't spin, everything around it does, and on a spindle, the spindle spins). Beware of swapping out the bottom bracket; there are some compatibility issues with older Raleighs. It can be done, but it may be harder than you think. I second the idea of finding a period-correct cotterless crank. Try ebay with "vintage Raleigh cranks," or something like that.

Chrome polish (e.g. simichrome, blue magic, etc.) will work a miracle on that headbadge.

Good luck with the project.

Thanks for the added help.

I didn't know to use chrome polish on the badge! That is great.
I have heard the spindle refered to as the "axle" or "spindle." Recently, I was talking with someone in our bike group about my spindle and he had no idea what I was talking about so I guess I assumed everyone called it an axle.
I made another thread here. Sheldon Brown suggested not spending too much money on the bike. I was considering throwing the spindle I pulled out, back in. It appears to be in good shape. Are their advantages to cottorless cranks besides easy crank removal?

Thanks for the assistance.

Cotterless cranks are often lighter than their cottered counterparts. Also, a wide variety of chainrings are available for most cotterless cranks.

Cottered cranks sometimes look better on a vintage bike, if you ask me.

His Record would've come with the three-spoke Nervar crank, which looks sort of bland (imo). A Stronglight, or even a Solida from the same period would look much better.

I have been trying to specifically date this Raleigh.
I was looking through Sheldon Brown's catalogues and I couldn't find mine in there. The color scheme originally was white with black. Does anyone specifically know what year Raleigh offered that color?
Thanks.

'73 and '74, if I'm not mistaken.

Don't hope to get more accurate then that, for the Raleigh serial charts online are mostly incomplete (if not 100% erroneous in sections), and cannot be relied on. Consequently, dating the lightweight Raleighs is mostly dependent on component variances, component date stamps, and paint scheme variants.

-Kurt

P.S.: Sheldon's .PDF catalogues are incomplete.

See:
https://bulgier.net/pics/bike/catalogs/Raleigh74/

-Kurt

urghh... looks like a kickstand mashed the rear stays... check the alignment of the rear triangle.

I checked on the cranks and chain rings.
The cranks have the Raleigh stamp on them and the chains have 40 and 52 stamped into them. I noticed that the 75 Raleigh had a Raleigh crank option (40/90). Also, the cranks have "201 ND 66" stamped in them.
Is it fruitless to continue trying to date this bike if I am going to put the original spindle and cranks back on? I don't want to put too much money in this bike. I'd rather get myself comfortable with putting a bike back together.

Thanks for your continued help.

PS - How do I check the rear triangle alignment?