Friction Bar End Question: Am I weak?
#1
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Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
Friction Bar End Question: Am I weak?
I replaced my downtube friction shifters (which were Shimano 600, and probably pretty nice) with Suntour barcons. (New old stock.) I much prefer the location on the handlebars, but the shifting on the chainrings has always required a pretty decent bit of muscle. (The cog shifter I can manipulate with finger pressure.) What's wrong here? Misadjusted shifter? Poor quality component? Or *gulp* am I just weak?
#2
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
It sounds like:
1) misadjusted shifter,
2) misadjusted front derailleur, or
3) too much friction in the cable housing (kink in cable?)
1) misadjusted shifter,
2) misadjusted front derailleur, or
3) too much friction in the cable housing (kink in cable?)
#3
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#4
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From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
Thanks. I have a feeling that my LBS isn't familiar enough with bar end shifters, never mind ones that aren't indexed. Can anybody point me in the direction of a primer on friction shifting? Anybody have pictures of how exactly to route the cables?
#5
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From: Santa Rosa, California
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OK, there are several different schools of thought on this; some purists insist on routing the cable housings straight forward, exiting the handlebar in a straight line and curving back to the stops like this picture. This is the way most factory rigged barcons left the factories. The theory is that by minimizing the cable housing bends, internal friction between the cables and the cable housings is minimized.

Some think the friction issue is a red herring and run the cable housing inside the bar tape all the way to the end of the tape near the stem.
What works for me is to set up the cable housing exit near the brake levers. That way, the cable bends (and friction) are minimized, but it doesn't look as weird as the factory rigging.

Some think the friction issue is a red herring and run the cable housing inside the bar tape all the way to the end of the tape near the stem.
What works for me is to set up the cable housing exit near the brake levers. That way, the cable bends (and friction) are minimized, but it doesn't look as weird as the factory rigging.
#6
Originally Posted by Scooper
What works for me is to set up the cable housing exit near the brake levers. That way, the cable bends (and friction) are minimized, but it doesn't look as weird as the factory rigging.


#7
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Originally Posted by grolby
Hmmm... interesting. I'm guessing that you don't ride the hoods much? If so, is that arrangment comfortable?
#8
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Stan,
Are your shifters the "Schwinn Approved" made by Suntour? This is what I installed on my Paramount. Just curious, also it looks as if you've added extra wrap or something at the ends of the bar near the shifters. What did you do? Thanks!
Are your shifters the "Schwinn Approved" made by Suntour? This is what I installed on my Paramount. Just curious, also it looks as if you've added extra wrap or something at the ends of the bar near the shifters. What did you do? Thanks!
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#9
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1) The factory installed barcons on my Raleigh have the housings leaving the bars at the first bend.
2) My other two barcon equipted bikes have the housings under the tape all the way to the stem. Both work fine, and one of them is indexed, and therefore less tolerant of friction.
3) A question for Stan: how do you incorprorate your pictures into the body of the post, rather than as attatchments?
Top
(not too proud to ask seemingly dumb questions)
2) My other two barcon equipted bikes have the housings under the tape all the way to the stem. Both work fine, and one of them is indexed, and therefore less tolerant of friction.
3) A question for Stan: how do you incorprorate your pictures into the body of the post, rather than as attatchments?
Top
(not too proud to ask seemingly dumb questions)
#10
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Originally Posted by Bklyn
I replaced my downtube friction shifters (which were Shimano 600, and probably pretty nice) with Suntour barcons. (New old stock.) I much prefer the location on the handlebars, but the shifting on the chainrings has always required a pretty decent bit of muscle. (The cog shifter I can manipulate with finger pressure.) What's wrong here? Misadjusted shifter? Poor quality component? Or *gulp* am I just weak?
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#11
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From: Santa Rosa, California
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
Stan,
Are your shifters the "Schwinn Approved" made by Suntour? This is what I installed on my Paramount. Just curious, also it looks as if you've added extra wrap or something at the ends of the bar near the shifters. What did you do? Thanks!
Are your shifters the "Schwinn Approved" made by Suntour? This is what I installed on my Paramount. Just curious, also it looks as if you've added extra wrap or something at the ends of the bar near the shifters. What did you do? Thanks!
I use rubber "shrink tubing" on the bar ends for dressing the tape.
Originally Posted by top506
...3) A question for Stan: how do you incorprorate your pictures into the body of the post, rather than as attatchments?
Top
(not too proud to ask seemingly dumb questions)
Top
(not too proud to ask seemingly dumb questions)
#12
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
Originally Posted by USAZorro
It might be as simple as loosening the screw that doubles as the pivot in the bar end just a little bit. Another possibility is that you're missing one of the friction plates (not sure if that's the proper terminology) from the shifter.
#13
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From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Bikes: 1982 Lotus Legend (steel-frame touring bike); 1982 Fuji S10S (converted to a singlespeed: 46x16); Specialized Crossroads hybrid (the child taxi).
Thanks for the help. It turned out that the shifter cables needed lubing, and that was all. (This is far and away the most accurate board on BF, by the way.)
EDIT: Scooper. My God, that's a beautiful bike.
EDIT: Scooper. My God, that's a beautiful bike.
Last edited by Bklyn; 10-25-06 at 02:53 PM.
#14
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Originally Posted by Bklyn
Scooper. My God, that's a beautiful bike.
On my UO-8, I route the barcon cables out before the first bend, then over my Bellwether front bag. This keeps them out of the way of my hands, whether I am on the hoods, the drops, or the tops.
https://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...0&d=1161131253
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
Last edited by John E; 10-26-06 at 09:55 AM.
#16
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Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
Originally Posted by Bklyn
EDIT: Scooper. My God, that's a beautiful bike.
Originally Posted by John E
Concur!
Originally Posted by amnomad
That is a gorgeous bike!!








