Modern components on old frame, should I?
#27
Steel is a dream
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 57
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Originally Posted by jet sanchEz
I've posted this pic a couple of times before. To me, it is a great example of how nice a classic bike can look with some new components on it.


... I love the Benottos...do you think about Campy Neutrons/Nucleons? I donīt like the decals of Kysiriums
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 664
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From: Belgium
Bikes: ca.1975 Gitane Interclub - 90's Colnago Master Competition- ca.'84 Merckx Corsa - '77 Groene Leeuw - ca. '78 Guerciotti - ca.1984 L'Express - 1974 Gitane 'Super Olympic' - Peugeot 1981 PXN10 - 1975 Peugeot PR10 -1974 Norta -1974 Peugeot PX10 LE
Originally Posted by John E
I used to like those cranks, until my low-mileage left Veloce crank began to crack at the spindle eye.
#29
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,366
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From: Soviet of Oregon or Pensacola FL
Bikes: Still have a few left!
Here's pics of 2 of my Titans, 88-90 NOS Columbus frames. 10 speed Chorus & 8 speed Athena. No problems with newer components & my final build cost was low overall thanks to the low frame price & some bargains on parts.
#30
Well, duh, Mr Obvious.
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: NIU town
Bikes: see sig, and others
Originally Posted by rmikkelsen
Ok, here's an issue -- putting a modern front derailleur on a classic steel frame. The only Campy 10 speed front with a 28.6 mm clamp is a Record, evidently. But it looks like DuraAce, Ultegra, 105 are also available in that diameter from Shimano. Be interested to learn how others have dealt with the issue.
and I have an Ultegra 6500 FD in 28.6 that came off my 03 allez Comp cr-mo, if anyone is looking for one....
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03 Specialized Allez CrMo-Singlespeed conversion
03 Specialized Allez CrMo-Singlespeed conversion
#32
Broom Wagon Fodder
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,384
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From: Minnesota
Bikes: Fuji Supreme; Kona Wo; Nashbar road frame custom build; Schwinn Varsity; Nishiki International; Schwinn Premis, Falcon Merckx, American Flyer muscle bike, Motobecane Mulekick
Originally Posted by rmikkelsen
Ok, here's an issue -- putting a modern front derailleur on a classic steel frame. The only Campy 10 speed front with a 28.6 mm clamp is a Record, evidently. But it looks like DuraAce, Ultegra, 105 are also available in that diameter from Shimano. Be interested to learn how others have dealt with the issue.
I made a shim out of plastic to put a 600 FD on my Varsity. Ended up using the "Schwinn Approved" one until I can find the appropriate clamp-on cable router because the 600 expects the cable to come out from under the BB instead of off the top of the down tube. And you know what? That 600 probably won't shift any better than the crappy rusty one I have on there. Front derailleurs really haven't improved a whole lot in the last 40 years.
#33
Keeping in the spirit of this thread, does anyone know if I can use an older Shimano 105 rear derailleur with the modern STI 105 shifters? It is a 9-speed set of shifters and the rear derailleur is RD-1055 and there is a PH on it too, is there a resource online to check the compatibility? Thanks.
#34
é wot?
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 364
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From: Inner Canuckistan
Bikes: Gary Fisher Montare, 1973 Bottechia, IRO Jamie Roy,1998 Cervelo Eyre Tri, 1982 Peugeot Sport fixed gear, and some kind of red bike hanging in the rafters
^ it should work fine. See https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html
#35
59'er
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,307
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From: Alexandria, IN
Bikes: LeMond Maillot Jaune, Vintage Trek 520 (1985), 1976 Schwinn Voyageur 2, Miyata 1000 (1985)
Originally Posted by Road Rash
I built up a 1983 Trek 720 this summer with modern components and it is the bike I have ridden the most from July through now, about 2200 miles. So I would say that if with modern components the bike is more likely to be ridden, then update it.
Well...I have a 1977 Schwinn that I won't change, but I won't ride it much either.
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#36
My early 1970's Sears bike has bike but the frame, seat post and calipers that is period correct.
Cotterless crank versus the original cottered (actually it has a triple installed now that I will replace this weekend with a 50/34 compact built on a Sugino XT crank I have).
Alloy rimmed wheels instead of steel.
6 speed freewheel versus 5 speed.
Indexed stem shifters versus non-indexed.
Nitto Technomic stem and alloy handlebar with aero brake levers
Cork wrap versus plastic.
RD is currently a Deore, but since I am eliminating the triple, I may switch to a Shimano 600 instead of Shimano Eagle.
FD is probably destined to be a low end Campagnolo instead of the Shimano Lark... If not I have a Shimano 600 I can use.
Seat is a Brooks instead of the original plastic seat.
Of course, this is on a bike that wouldn't be worth much if it were in brand new showroom condition, but even so, in general I think that upgrading whatever you want to upgrade is the right choice for you.
Cotterless crank versus the original cottered (actually it has a triple installed now that I will replace this weekend with a 50/34 compact built on a Sugino XT crank I have).
Alloy rimmed wheels instead of steel.
6 speed freewheel versus 5 speed.
Indexed stem shifters versus non-indexed.
Nitto Technomic stem and alloy handlebar with aero brake levers
Cork wrap versus plastic.
RD is currently a Deore, but since I am eliminating the triple, I may switch to a Shimano 600 instead of Shimano Eagle.
FD is probably destined to be a low end Campagnolo instead of the Shimano Lark... If not I have a Shimano 600 I can use.
Seat is a Brooks instead of the original plastic seat.
Of course, this is on a bike that wouldn't be worth much if it were in brand new showroom condition, but even so, in general I think that upgrading whatever you want to upgrade is the right choice for you.





