roguedog

Anyone know what the pros and cons of one or the other are? If you're rebuilding a frame.. does it matter?

How does it matter? Is one more fragile, not as long lasting.. ? Just looking for info so I can make an informed decision.

Kinetikx

Powder coat is much more durable, and also more expensive. A rattlecan job will put a new finish on the frame and is cheap but will eventually get chipped fairly easily. If you have a compressor and a gun you can use a good two-part paint and get a nice compromise between the two.

I am about to repaint an early 80's entry level Univega and it will be a commuter so I'm opting for rattlecan. It all depends on what your ultimate goal is for the bike (and what the bike started out as). If it is a Paramount go for the big buck paint because eventually it could pay off if you plan on selling it. If it's a low-level bike that will see lots of use and will get knocked around just go cheap- strip it and spray with some good quality (as good as that gets) spray paint.

coelcanth

powder is thicker and will not show off your bike's details as well as a good paint job
fewer finish options with powder coating
most powder jobs will be way cheaper than a nice pro paint job
the only thing cheaper than painting a frame yourself is leaving it as it is !

TBART

+1

M-theory

Powdercoat: about $120; Much more durable than paint; limited masking options; "orange peel' texture -not as shiny-smooth as paint; Not recommended for period-correct, high-end vintage builds as it can detract from collector value. Is recommended for nice-looking, functional and modern restoration.

Paint: about $250-$1000 (Poly or laquer); Ultra-glossy and smooth, more masking options (lugs, stays, etc.). More colors and metalic flake options, pinstriping, etc; More collector 'correct' for high-end vintage resto.

I recently had a '72 Paramount painted a beautiful metallic black with red pinstripes for $250.....so paint can be inexpensive if you look around (Custom motorcycle paint shops are usually a nice deal and Dr. Deltron on this forum is resonable). Of course you should do prep work yourself to save money.

Bikedued

I have had several powdercoat jobs done that were just as smooth as paint or smoother. If you got peel on a powdercoat the person had no clue what they were doing, likewise with thickness. I saw a powdered Rossin that was as slick as glass, and the top tube cable guides were not the least bit caked up looking. The main drawbacks are finding someone who knows what they're doing, and that decals won't stick to it. There are infinite color possibilities, nearly as many as paint. It also makes paint look like candy coating as far as durability goes.,,,,BD

greybeard87

I've got an old Le Tour frame that I was planning on sending to powdercoat, is that true about decals?

How does one handle applying decals to a powdercoated frame?

Can you shoot a clear enamel over a powdercoated/decaled frame?

Bikedued

Yep, unfortunately it's true. You can clear over it if I'm not mistaken. But, that leaves you back at chipping paint again. Without a clear, they stick but start to curl up later on. Powdercoat isn't porous enough
for the glue to sink in and hold.,,,,BD

nlerner

If it's a matter of being porous, then why does my parking sticker adhere so well to the rear window of my car? Or have you ever tried to remove stickers from a mirror?

Neal

spry

Being related to a auto paint chemist,he always applied an epoxy primer to the surface of any metal object we were spraying.This protects the paint from lifting due to U V rays,metal pitting,etc.The final finish within 8hrs would be a clear coat.

Dr.Deltron(sp)would be the expert here due to the fact he does it for a living,hobby,vocation?
Painting a bike is unique due to keeping one side of the thin frame from drying out while spraying the opposing side.Runs are also tough to control on such skinney object.

Christof H

Most of my experience is in boats and... well, hot stuff. 2 part paints are AWESOME, but DO NOT under ANY circumstances spray at home unless you REALLY know what you are doing. Stuff is deadlier than standing over a galzanized brazing operation. Really. But man, it's nice when it's done. I've done enough fine brushwork with 2 parts I'd be tempted to try it on a bike that way.

Or-try out some of the rustoleum stove and BBQ paint. Colors are limited, but the stuff it REALLY durable and sticks to anything. I suppose if you live in a climate like mine you could rig a summer drying greenhouse solar heater thing, too......

I've had good and bad rattle can jobs, never quite as durable as a paint shop, but the rustoleum paints over good automotive primer seem to hold up really well- lots better than krylon.

Bikedued

Decals are applied by a glue which is activated by soaking in water. Stickers carry there own adhesive which is not affected by water. Two completely different type of adhesives. If you have a bike that uses stickers, then use powdercoat without worry.

I have also had luck with rusoleum spray paint. The one time I used it was about 20 years ago. It took
seemingly forever to dry, but was as durable as baked enamel. ,,,,BD

duane041

I paint frames on the side, and I really enjoy it. And I have always preferred paint over powder. Just my preference. I think the colors that can be obtained with paint are limitless; not sure if that's the case with powder.
I use an epoxy primer, a sealer, a water-based auto color, and then a catalyzed two-part clear. Someone above mentioned the toxicity of these two-part'ers, and they're right. Read the precautions, follow the guidelines. But they look beautiful, and are durable enough when properly cared for.

John E

I vote for paint, and I did put my money where my mouth is.

McDave

Rustoleum now has a quick drying paint. So quick you need to apply the color coat within 10 minutes of the primer. Dries to the touch in about 30 minutes, enough to apply decals then finish with a clear coat. Still need to allow it to cure a week or more before assembling bike. Plenty tough though.

Only drawback is it comes in only 4 or 5 colors, all Metallic: black, silver, gold, colbalt blue, and bronze (iirc).

Dr.Deltron

Guess I better chime in here.... where to start...?..

Powderecoating that is orange peeled, lumpy or otherwise yucky was applied someone who does boat trailers mainly. The powdercoater that I use knows bicycles. His work rivals my paint.

Powdercoating is far and away, more durable than wet paint.

Powdercoating color choices are more limited than paint colors, but a good powdercoater can custom mix the powders and get close to what you want.

Powdercoating can be used as a base color. You can use most automotive base coat colors over PC.
Mask the headtube & seat tube panels, make the lugs a different color etc. Then you can apply decals.
Now clear with some 2 part automotive clear (wear a filter mask).
If your decals are cut vinyl (from a sign shop), I would put those on OVER the clear.

Or if you only want a metallic color or a pearl colored powdercoat, no decals, you will either have to have an additional coat of clear powdercoat added OR spray 2 part automotive clear.
A clear over metallic & pearl colors is needed because the metal flakes or pearl flakes sit right on the surface. If there is no clear, when you go to clean/polish your bike, you will scratch those little flakes and dull the finish.

So you want a beautiful, bulletproof finish?
Powdercoat a color, clear with paint!

My 2 cents. Did I miss anybody?

roguedog

Thanks everyone.

Doc - I see you're in NOrthern California. Do you recommend Maas Tech/Bro for powder coating? If I went paint the LBS said they use D&D Cycles.


I have recently acquired a '93 Bridgestone XO-1 in my size. It needs a little loving. Meanshile, I'm trying to decide:

1) Powder coat or paint?
2) Bring back to original spec (construction pumpkin) or just paint or powder coat to another color? If the latter I'm leaning towards hinting to the original color by painting or powder coating it to a metallic burnt orange color or maybe I'll just go way off spec and go for a a nice metallic (?) burgundy.

I don't think it matters to collectors does it? Once I've had to strip the orig paint, then it's all "just new paint"?

bigbossman 

FWIW - I just called MAAS in Hayward, and they now charge $80 for a one-color powder coat. MAAS in Livermore charges $125.