How about some oxyalic acid tips?
01-31-07 | 02:42 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Glutton for Punishment
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,896
Likes: 9
From: San Leandro, CA
How about some oxyalic acid tips?
Things like what ratio of acid crystals to water, soak times, parts prep, and so on. The instructions on the container are for its intended use, and as such no use to us. If we could compile some basic instructions, I think a lot of folks would find it useful.
01-31-07 | 06:06 AM
#2
Here's a solid two hours of reading on the subject: https://www.vintagebmx.com/cgi-bin/ul...c;f=4;t=004702
01-31-07 | 07:20 AM
#3
I've only been playing with OA for a couple months and am no expert so these suggestions shouldn't be written in stone. YMMV
De-grease parts before soaking.
Warm water speeds up the process.
1 teaspoon to a small bowl = 4 to 6 hours soak time.
1/4 cup to a 12" x 18" tub 4 inches deep = overnight
1/2 cup to a 18" x 36" container (under bed linen container) = 2 days and may require another 1/4 cup if the action seems to be slow going.
Generally, the larger the container, the less concentration of OA used (for economy purposes), thus the longer soaking times.
Use a white 3M pad to loosen the scale from time to time. I haven't been able to find white 3M's where I live so use a blue scratchless Scotchbrite pad instead.
Rinse off parts and then soak them in a water and baking soda bath(or use a BP paste) to stop the oxidation when finished. Blow dry, then use framesaver or Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector inside frames and bars, and polish outsides to prevent future corrosion.
I'll add more tips to this post as I think of them. Off to work now...
De-grease parts before soaking.
Warm water speeds up the process.
1 teaspoon to a small bowl = 4 to 6 hours soak time.
1/4 cup to a 12" x 18" tub 4 inches deep = overnight
1/2 cup to a 18" x 36" container (under bed linen container) = 2 days and may require another 1/4 cup if the action seems to be slow going.
Generally, the larger the container, the less concentration of OA used (for economy purposes), thus the longer soaking times.
Use a white 3M pad to loosen the scale from time to time. I haven't been able to find white 3M's where I live so use a blue scratchless Scotchbrite pad instead.
Rinse off parts and then soak them in a water and baking soda bath(or use a BP paste) to stop the oxidation when finished. Blow dry, then use framesaver or Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector inside frames and bars, and polish outsides to prevent future corrosion.
I'll add more tips to this post as I think of them. Off to work now...
Last edited by McDave; 02-02-07 at 08:42 AM.
01-31-07 | 07:36 AM
#4
FalconLvr
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 198
From: SW Virginia
Bikes: 62 Falcon, 58 Raleigh Lenton Gran Prix, 74 Raleigh Pro, 75 Raleigh Int, 75 Raleigh Comp, 76 Colnago Super, 75 Crescent, 80 Peugeot PX10, plus others too numerous to mention!
One thing I have noticed is that if you have zinc-coated things like bolt heads or derailler hangers the Oxalic acid can dull the previously shiny surface. Not sure if this is just a dull coating that can be removed with super fine sandpaper or if it is more permanent.
01-31-07 | 09:09 AM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,910
Likes: 5,470
From: NW Burbs, Chicago
Originally Posted by evwxxx
One thing I have noticed is that if you have zinc-coated things like bolt heads or derailler hangers the Oxalic acid can dull the previously shiny surface. Not sure if this is just a dull coating that can be removed with super fine sandpaper or if it is more permanent.
In the hardware store, by the oven cleaner is a brass brush the size of a oversized toothbrush. It costs about $1.50 and won't scratch your chrome. I believe its intended use is to scrub your enamel coated oven without scratching it but it works wonders on that stubborn rust.
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