Looking for a nice Schwinn 'S' Seat in brown/white combo, for my wife's Sierra Brown Collegiate. The brown glitter handgrips would be a nice plus.

Just like these: https://www.gallery.unvoiced.com/main.php?g2_itemId=389

Weyless is right. 1970s designed by Bill Shook.


Pic from the Pedal Museum website.

Very nice looking bike! I hope the 1973 Schwinn Breeze in Kool Lemon that I got for my wife looks close to that good when I'm done with it.

BTW, ours is missing the red refector on the rear fender. Happen to have a spare?

I may have a spare rear reflector. I'll take a look. Do you just need the reflector, or the holder as well?

The above bike was my first foray into restoration. It was purchased for $5 at an estate sale. It is my wife's Phoenix Collegiate. She has another here in MI that lacks the S seat and brown sparkle grips.

Great restoration job, and gotta love a good deal. I found our Breeze at a church garage sale. The bike was not actually part of the sale, but I spotted it in back and offered them $20 for it. Sold.

Thanks for looking for a reflector. I do need the holder as well. All I have is the rivet in the fender. This is the only pic I have on hand that sort of shows it, FWIW.

26.6 mm road seatpost; silver alloy, not black, something nicer than "kalloy" or "laprade." Suntour, Gipiemme, Campy, Thomson, etc. Normal wear and tear okay, as long as it's totally functional. I can get a new Thomson for $70 + shipping.

Also, the left (non-chainwheel) side crankarm for a Sugino Mighty Competition crankset, 170mm length.

I need some 7400 dura ace dual pivot brakes to round out my group

I need a campy crankset, let me know what you have. I need to get something asap. Thanks!

I really need either non-aero brake hoods for early 1980's Shimano 600 brake levers, or a clever idea of how to finish the levers off nicely. I have bits I can trade, or can purchase. They need not be new, but must be presentable (good condition).

Thanks,

Z

Those old hoods are like golden hen's teeth; it's ridiculous that they're one of the most perishable items on a bike and nobody makes durable replacements because they aren't generic enough.

I have both Campy Super Record levers and Shimano 600 levers from the mid-80s. Comparing them side-by-side, it looks like the hoods would be swappable. I mention this because there is an outfit called Euro-Asia that makes Campy knock-off hoods in gum-like brown and black. No logos, somewhat crude, and a mold line down the middle, but they might fit your levers. $20 on eBay or at Lickbike.com, slightly more from Peter White, and other places too.

I have a new set of Campy levers coming from an eBay purchase, that have these replacement hoods on them (I'm too cheap to pay $70 for the real thing); when they get here, I will try them on a 600 lever, and let you know how they fit.

Another option is to buy a set of NOS levers with hoods; there are several on eBay at a time. That runs you about $40-45.

In the end, we who love bikes of the non-aero gum hood era will need to find some DIY way to refit brake levers with something cushioning, that will last for awhile - like pliable and resilient papier-mache'. There's a product made for roofing called RD Elastoflex that a representative gave me a sample of -- in theory it seemed ideal. It's a reinforced acrylic (using woven polyester mesh, I think), very flexible when cured but tough, that might be applied carefully by brush over a lever body protected with food wrap or heat-shrink, or even low-tack masking tape. If I can get a can of this stuff, I may try it out.

Charles,

Thanks for the lead. This is for a bike I'm flipping - a small Trek 520 with some scratches on one of the levers. If I can't get something for closer to $10.00, I may re-wrap the bars and put Dia Compe levers on instead. At least I have hoods for them.

Z

Early non-aero Dia-Compe Gran Compe levers used gum hoods nearly identical to that of Campagnolo's, save for the Gran Compe lettering on the side. I have a pair on my Victory levers on my '81 Trek 610, and I'm happy to say they're a perfect fit, and you can't tell the difference from a foot (or in some cases, even less) away. The gum material is also much sturdier then the Campagnolo hoods - more likely to last longer under moderate use.

-Kurt

Here's a picture of newer style Weinmann black hoods with Shimano 600 levers on my Miyata 210. Not perfect, but close enough.

I got out my Campy SR and Shimano 600 levers today and tried swapping hoods. The Campy SR hoods will fit on the Shimano, but the latter have just slightly longer reach in the body (lever is a bit farther from the handlebar seat; they'd probably work okay, and they fit around the cable horn and the front opening well. The Shimano hoods have a molded shoulder inside in the area where the cable exits the horn, and they won't fit onto the Campy SR lever bodies. One significant difference between the Campy SR bodies and the Shimano 600 is that the latter require an aluminum bushing to stop the cable housing, while that's integral to the Campy.

I noticed a weird thing: the Campy SR bodies are not completely symmetrical around the bottom of the handlebar seat; one side droops down farther than the other (the left side is lower, when viewed from the rear). I thought that possibly they're "handed" and that I had two from the same side; but I got another pair today, and all four lever bodies have the same "droop".

Cool. Now where can I find some of these?

I have found NOS sets on ebay for $5, but the last set I got was at Americian Cyclery in SF for $20.

I'm looking for the locknut of a campagnolo threaded headset, circa 1983. Looking for one in as new condition, with the lettering "PATENT CAMPAGNOLO ITALY CAMPAGNOLO" written around the top (visible) part of it.

I know its a long shot, but PM me if you've got one!


-Steve

English, Italian or French?

Steel or aluminum?

I have a 27.2 Campy seatpost that has the top half of the post ovalized and the bottom half is round to fit snugly in the frame. It is in excellent shape.

I would like to trade for a 27.2 Campy seatpost that is round all the way up (so that the seat can be lowered closer to the frame).

jim

I need a road bike fork with quite a bit of clearance for a tire and fender. One inch steerer, and preferably chromoly. Not sure on the length of the steerer, but the frame is a 57 or 58cm so if it were at least a foot long I should be fine. I would prefer eyelets on both sides of the dropout, but need at least one eyelet on the back side for a fender. Color is not important, as I will be painting it anyway.

Drive side deore 180mm crank arm or left non-drive side Takagi Tourney XT 180mm crank arm.

I am after a double BB spindle, TA 344 (116.5mm) or an equivalent from another maker. I don't know what the equivalents from other makers are, but I'm open to suggestions. I currently have a TA 374 triple spindle which I may be able to offer for trade. Thanks!

I need a 26.0mm one-piece seatpost. Any condition is fine as long as it works and is complete.

Neal

flipflop wheelset...nuff said.

WTB: Seatpost, 23.8 mm in diameter.
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yeah, I didn't think so...