New freewheel, servicing them is a real pain.

Also, pics of the blast door/bike shop?

bike, storage?

and most of those pics were taken from inside... if i remember, ok.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:V...suojan_ovi.jpg

Heres one with the door open... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blast_door#Design_of_Blast_Shelters

you can see one like it in wiki, its the civil one (duh)

Diff, go with a new freewheel. It's worth the insurance of knowing it's in good shape. And I second the picture of the blast door bike shop.

What bike SHOP? you mean lbs? Did i miss lead you guys... its a shelter, where every one keeps there bike(s) (and i do my repairs and such). I went to a lbs to get the freewheel off. The mech used a vice, and it came of really smoothly.

Btw does that derailer(sp) look bent? Oh well.., it works fine.

Diff, we generally don't have "blast doors" in the U.S. Some areas do have storm shelters buried in backyards for tornados while other people have a safe room in the interior of their houses for the same purpose. Your RD does look bent, but both of my older long cage RDs look the same as yours and both work just fine. Thanks for the pictures.

I had a really stuck freewheel. The fact that it was an English-threaded FW on a Italian-threaded hub did not help at all (although in theory they are somewhat compatible). Mounting the removal tool on a bench vice did not help, as the FW was so stuck that I managed to break the vice twice. WD-40 also was useless. Two things helped: (a) A long length (1 m/3 ft.) of elliptical cross-section iron pipe to increase leverage on the wrench, and (b) heating the FW cluster over a camping stove for 1-2 minutes (make sure you do not touch it, it is hot).

Do not forget to apply a thin coat of grease to the freewheel threads when you install it again. You do not want to go through another stuck freewheel situation - right?

I use the vice method but you need a huge lump-of-metal-vice bolted to a solid wooden bench, not one of these little clamp-on things. Most garage workshops have a vice and they generally they you spin off a freewheel.
I tried using a skewer as recomended in all the books, but only once. You need a skewer to hold the tool in place if you use a wrench. With a vice, gravity will hold everything together. If you spin wheel around a few times to remove the freewheel, it will suddenly lock up against the skewer and its really hard to free up.

When fitting the freewheel, grease as advised above, and reverse thread the freeweel, spinning by hand with the tool, till it click into position, then tighten by hand. You don't want to cross-thread a cheap steel freewheel with an expensive aluminium hub.

zombie thread

I had greased the threads, unfortunately it did not help. I had applied a liberal coat of Phil's grease when I had installed it.

I see what you 're saying, however I managed to break two large vices bolted onto my wooden bench. And I am not that strong, really.

Good advice, and as I said, my stuck freewheel has had a liberal coat of Phil's grease upon installation, which did not help at all.

I find your comment completely unwarranted. Judging from the replies, this is an interesting thread. If anything, you replied, right?

Use Anti-Sieze, not grease or oil. It is a silver color. Snce the FW stopson a sholder of the hub, put some there too.

I have found that if you _tighten_ it a little first, that can break things loose. Also, I do the destructo method of removal without power tools - I wedge the bigger cogs in a vise, then hammer off the smallest cog with a big screwdriver. Unthread it. Same with the next, and the next. Then disasemble it. Then grab it with a pipe wrench and take it off.

You do know what a zombie is, don't you?

Yes, although here used in a figurative sense. I don't see what the problem is with posting to an old thread that, judging from the replies, is still relevant and of concern to some.