raleigh frame geometry
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: New England
Bikes: 3 speeds, mountain, road and recumbent
raleigh frame geometry
Greetings, I've ridden a (~1977) 23 1/2" Raleigh Professional since I bought it new. It fits me pretty good. Now I want to compare it to a new fangled bike and am searching for the frame geometry details. Anyone know where I can find Raleigh frame geometry?
Thanks,
Sherbornpeddler
Thanks,
Sherbornpeddler
#3
joychri
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Bikes: 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1979 Raleigh Competition GS, 1987 Shogun 300, 1989 Trek 520, 1995 Gary Fisher Wahoo, 1968 Schwinn Super Sport, 1976 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1971 Raleigh Competition, Gunnar Crosshairs
Welcome to the forum.
In regard to your question, I would start with www.retroraleighs.com first. The site has historical information for most Raleigh models as well as catalogs from the 1960's up through 1979. Most of what I know about my 1978 Raleigh Competition GS I learned from this site.
Good luck.
In regard to your question, I would start with www.retroraleighs.com first. The site has historical information for most Raleigh models as well as catalogs from the 1960's up through 1979. Most of what I know about my 1978 Raleigh Competition GS I learned from this site.
Good luck.
#4
I don't think they recorded the geometry of the frames. Things like fork angle or wheel base. I think nlerner's right. I think you are going to have to do your home work on this one. Good luck in your quest.
#5
joychri
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Bikes: 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1979 Raleigh Competition GS, 1987 Shogun 300, 1989 Trek 520, 1995 Gary Fisher Wahoo, 1968 Schwinn Super Sport, 1976 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1971 Raleigh Competition, Gunnar Crosshairs
The link below has the frame angles for the 1978 model. I think yours should be the same. That should at least get you started.
FYI. The information is at the bottom of the comparison chart near the end of the page.
https://www.retroraleighs.com/professional.html
FYI. The information is at the bottom of the comparison chart near the end of the page.
https://www.retroraleighs.com/professional.html
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 2
From: Bristol, British Isles
I think it is really unlikely that a 23.5in frame will have the same geometry as the 21.5in whose geometry is listed. The larger frame is likely to have a shallower seat tube angle and maybe a slightly steeper head angle - the only real way to find out what your frame's geometry is, is to measure it. Making a half scale or ideally a full scale drawing of the frame will help to ensure you get it it accurate as measuring frame angles with a protractor in incredibly difficult. However by doing a drawing you can see if what you measured actually all adds up. Altenatively a local framebuilder could check it on his jig...
Hilary
Hilary
#9
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
You could take pictures of the bike directly from the side, draw a base line across the bottoms of the tires, and then use a square, straight edge and protractor to measure the angle right on the photo. You'd probably need an 8" by 10" to get it accurate.
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#10
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: New England
Bikes: 3 speeds, mountain, road and recumbent
Tried the 8x10 photo method is still too small and probably camera angle my acuracy is insufficient. I need resolution of 1 degree and can't get less than 2 or 3 degrees.
I'll try direct measurement, high school geometry and carpenter tools directly on the frame.
I'll try direct measurement, high school geometry and carpenter tools directly on the frame.
#11
Sherbornpeddler,
Ralieghs are like most bike boom bikes. They just didn't publish frame geometry data.
We'd very much like to get the Ralieghs documented on the Bike Geometry Project spreadsheet. Bad news is that we'll have to rely on volunteers taking a half hour or so to measure their frames and then rely on those measurements as approximations to the design specs (variations in manufacturing and measuring). The good news volunteers have submitted ideas on how to measure the frames and we've posted it here:
https://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/dirt...t.html#measure
If you want to measure up your frame, you can PM me or send me mail at pinnah at comcast dot net. We'll record it in the spreadsheet so others can benifit.
Many thanks!
-Dave
Ralieghs are like most bike boom bikes. They just didn't publish frame geometry data.
We'd very much like to get the Ralieghs documented on the Bike Geometry Project spreadsheet. Bad news is that we'll have to rely on volunteers taking a half hour or so to measure their frames and then rely on those measurements as approximations to the design specs (variations in manufacturing and measuring). The good news volunteers have submitted ideas on how to measure the frames and we've posted it here:
https://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/dirt...t.html#measure
If you want to measure up your frame, you can PM me or send me mail at pinnah at comcast dot net. We'll record it in the spreadsheet so others can benifit.
Many thanks!
-Dave
#12
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 21,835
Likes: 3,726
Hilary is correct, a full scale drawing would help, I go a bit further, set in a set of wheels without tires, as tires are not perfect and I use a CAD program to check the geometry for truthfulness, quicker than a drawing. A number of cheap CAD programs out there, cheaper than buying drafting tools even.
Having sold Raleigh's long ago, there is a transition point somewhere in the mid 70's where the geometry did change, and frames of different size seat tubes shared a top tube length, great for a rider wanting to sit up more upright and not reach as much, not so good to get a typical fit. We guessed it just made for faster production, less parts, less to rejig.
Later they even sent over the Nuovo Record cranksets with chainguards fitted... big brother was watching and had to protect the masses with too much money and no sense.
Having sold Raleigh's long ago, there is a transition point somewhere in the mid 70's where the geometry did change, and frames of different size seat tubes shared a top tube length, great for a rider wanting to sit up more upright and not reach as much, not so good to get a typical fit. We guessed it just made for faster production, less parts, less to rejig.
Later they even sent over the Nuovo Record cranksets with chainguards fitted... big brother was watching and had to protect the masses with too much money and no sense.





