how much should an old Cannondale SR400 cost?

I found this one at CL: https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/d...293783887.html

looks like it's in good condition, but the price of $325 seems a bit high! any advice?

I am looking for a ride around town/weekend road ride bike. So i want light, quick and not too expensive! I've heard some people hated the SR400 though. any opinions??

thanks!

Whether the price is high or not depends on the local market. If the bike fits you and you like the way it rides, I wouldn't think $300ish is too out of line for a clean, ready-to-ride bike with functioning RSX gear. I know it would easily sell for that in L.A. or S.F.

FWIW, I had a similar vintage Trek 1500 that was all aluminum. It was a nice handling bike, but it had a fairly harsh ride. After 30 miles or so a lot of different body parts began to hurt or go numb........

Like bigbossman said, it depends on the market. A brand name like C'dale will fetch a little more than a similar quality bike from a lesser known manufacturer. It looks like a nice bike, if it fits you'll probably be happy with it. Make sure there's no wear on the cassette and chain and that it has good bar tape, hoods, cables and tires. I would think at that price, it should be about perfect mechanically speaking. Cosmetically it should be nice, but not necessarily perfect.

HAGGLE!!

I got a "box-stock" '86 ST400 at a garage sale for $20.
Which helps off-set the $125 I just paid for a NOS Regina 5 speed freewheel.

Shouldn't that have been the other way around?!?

yeah I've heard from several people now to expect a "harsh" ride. I've only sat on it, but didn't have time for a test ride. I'm planning on doing that tonight. I've also heard from some that the "friction shifting" will be tough in the city. I'm a newbie to any road bikes (always been on a newer mountain bike), so what exactly does that mean and tranlate to? Used to ride my dad's old Fuji racing bike and it had the shifters on the drop bar. Is that about the same do you think??

thanks for the advice though!

I agree (remember my "chin-rubbing comment a while back....)

BUT........... it's much easier to negotiate down at a garage sale than CL. Once it hits CL there is a bigger market, and if the guy has a lot of replies in his back pocket it takes a deft touch to squeeze him down off his price.

For that kind of dough be sure to ride it and like it, and make sure everything works great. The price is not necessarily out of line, but it is top dollar so make sure you're getting a good bike. A lively, responsive ride (alternate terms for "harsh") for short city rides might actually be preferable?

DT friction wouldn't be my 1st choice for city riding, but that being said I did it for years and it works just fine. There is a learning curve if you're not used to it, but it really isn't that big of a deal. Just make sure you downshift when coming to a stop, so it's easier to sprint across the intersection when the light turns green....

I have an SR400. Mine is 56 cm...no way that one listed is 60 cm. I think the seller is listing the seat tube measurement from center of BB to top of seat tube, rather than center of top tube. The bike is a bit harsh, but also super stiff, light, and responsive. It's got cantilevered dropouts, which effectively shorten the chainstays making for an even harsher ride. That said, I've equipped mine with 700x25 tires, and I can ride fairly long distances comfortably. It's also a compact geometry, like most modern road bikes, which in many C&Vers opinions makes it a torture to ride. I think it would make a great city bike.

For some reason, these sell very well on eBay. Some people hate the fat tube look, but I find it appealing. And I think lots of people equate it with the look of newer, more expensive fat tube frames. I've been watching eBay as I plan to sell mine (hint, hint). They go for anywhere between $150 and $250, before shipping costs. So, while the price may be on the high side, it's actually pretty close to ebay sales prices with shipping factored in. As far as I know, the highest level components I've seen on these frames is 105. RX-100 is actually identical to 105, except for an unpainted finish, which in my opinion looks better. Also, it's indexed, so you don't have to worry about friction.

For reference, if this one is stock, it's got nice SLR dual pivot brakes, a 7 speed cassette (12-23 I think), 52/42 chainrings, and black anondized Wolber GTX eyeletted rims with stainless spokes. Good solid parts on a nice frame.

Mine has been nearly completely overhauled (with the exception of the BB), which I doubt can be said about this one. I might list it on my local CL for $250 to see if I get any bites. But more realistically, I'd list at $200 and hope for $175 or so. I'd probably let it go for even less to a BF member.

I had an SR400 back in about 1985 (I believe it was the last year before they switched to index shifting?). It was nice and fast but, based on my 20 recollection, it was a harsh and dead ride. I remember that, at the time, I kind of preferred my Dad's old Windsor, which was steel.


Anyway, I sold the SR400 in about 1992 for $125 (I believe that it was about $500 when new). It was pretty run down at the time. I'd say that the one that you're looking at should be in pretty amazing condition to warrant $400.

As far as down tube shifters, I use indexed ones here in Chicago. I spend 98% of my time in heavy city traffic and they're not bad. Friction would be a little tougher until you get used to them. I haven't had any problems, although I'm shopping for a new-old steel bike and will probably give brifters a try (never used them). If I lived in a rural or suburban area, I'd never have anything but downtube shifters. But, in the constant start and stop of heavy traffic, I like the idea of being able to shift with both hands on the bars.

Good luck in whatever you go with.

Harsh, yes, but not dead at all. The thing wants to move, trust me. They did change the design between 1985 and the early 90s, so bibliobob was riding a different frame - before the cantilevered dropout design. That may account for his impressions. But in my experience, "gaspipe" high tensile tubing gives a dead ride, because it absorbs all road feedback and is very springy. This frame is very, very stiff, which in my opinion makes it very lively.

A question of semantics, I suppose. The bike was definitely a fast ride, as I noted. I lived in the Cleveland area at the time and their metroparks offered endless miles of great rides. But, definitely a bone-jarring bike.

I equate "springy" steel rides with being "lively." Just my interpretation. Here on the very, very rough roads of Chicago, I definitely prefer the "springy" ride of steel over the stiff, quick acceleration of aluminum. If I lived just about anywhere else, even in the local suburbs, I would definitely consider aluminum. Just not here.

I would agree with all of JYB's statements; we're just using different terminology.