I have a B-15 that hasn't been used in probably 20 years and just received some proofide with my new B-17. Any reason NOT to apply a generous coat of proofide on the older B-15? It's still in good shape, but the leather is dry and stiff.

Thanks

No, go ahead, just don't go crazy. I typically just do the top, not the bottom myself.

Just be careful... I had an old Dayton of London leather saddle which was very dry and dirty. After cleaning it I proofed it with Brooks proofhide and re-tensioned it, all went well until the leather started to split away from one of the nose rivets after a couple of rides.
It was no doubt my fault as I may have overtensioned it, if I was doing it again I would leave the tensioning alone for a few weeks to let everything settle down again as the leather soaked up the proofhide and regained its flexability.

385xza

do some searches for reconditioning Brooks saddles.
there are two schools of thought... leave them alone (proofhide) or carefully soak in some sort of leather conditioner. I had a B5N that came on a Dawes from the 70's. It had not been used for like 20 years. I used some leather conditioner, soaked it in aluminum foil, and it softened a bit. My daughter rides on it every day on her Fixed gear, and the saddle is dark honey brown and glossy.

As I said, do some searches and you will find a few opinions about things other than just proofhide -- which is more of a protection vs. soften/conditioning.

Some things will degrade leather... I think I even used some linseed oil, an it was fine

I think I'm leaning towards a little bit of proofide for some protection and since the seat isn't uncomfortable at this point, a whole lotta sweat to soften the leather.

Proofhide or Lexol. My personal choice is the Proofhide.

Aaron

I like Pecards myself. It's beeswax based, like Proofhide, but much cheaper.
Top

Proofide, but don't over do it; a little goes a long way.

Proofide isn't beeswax based - it's mostly tallow.

Rubbed a little proofide in last night and then buffed it up this morning. Looks 100% better. Weather permitting I'll start sweating it into shape this weekend.

Thanks for the feedback, this forum is an invaluable resource!

I would think that sweat would be rather bad for the saddle, since it's basically water and salt... proofhide is greasy, to help prevent water and salt from soaking into the leather an ruining it....

I reconditioned an old team pro saddle. The saddle was in good condition but
dry and hard (like any good brooks). I applied proofide to the top and heated it
with a hairdryer set to low heat to facilitate the proofide working it's way into the
saddle. Had it not been dead of winter I would have applied the proofide and left the
saddle in the sun. I also treat the bottom of the saddle at least once a year with a
healthy dose of proofide and leave it there, I don't wipe off the excess to allow
some waterproofing to the underside.

Marty

Proofide it on the top and see how it looks after it dries. Ride it a bit and see if it is not "taut" feeling. Gingerly advance the screw if it feels too flaccid as you ride, but do not go further than snug (no I do not have torque wrench settings for this - kinda drumlike but no sense of pulling leather at the rivets!). If it can't be ridden after this without cracking, discomfort, or ass-hatcheting pain, you have a dead saddle. You've tried heroically to save her, but you really just have to let the old girl go.

Road Fan

Put 30 miles on the "old girl" last night and she did fine. I'm attributing the very mild discomfort the last few miles to it being the first ride of the season as opposed to the saddle.

Does anyone have recommendations for the best method for longer term storage of leather saddles? I have several bikes with them, but find I prefer to just switch saddles and ride my current favorite, which is nicely broken-in. I figure when that one is too far gone, move on and break-in another one.