best non-aero levers?
#1
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From: New Englander
best non-aero levers?
I'm looking to upgrade the brake levers on my old road bike. It has suicide levers which suck, and I would like to put aero levers on, for better mechanical advantage, increased comfort, and the nice clean look.
BUT. This bike has some fantastic grips. They're not the spongy foam, they're smooth and have a sweet diamond pattern punched in. I'd like to keep the grips, which I assume means I can't have aero bars.
So, what are the best non-aero bars, in terms of ergonomics and efficiency?
BUT. This bike has some fantastic grips. They're not the spongy foam, they're smooth and have a sweet diamond pattern punched in. I'd like to keep the grips, which I assume means I can't have aero bars.
So, what are the best non-aero bars, in terms of ergonomics and efficiency?
#2
MFA
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Denver
Bikes: 1973 Italvega Nouvo Record; 1965 Hercules; 1982-83 Schwinn Mystery MTB
The tape needs to come off if you want to change the brake levers which means you could go aero. Could you just carefully remove and rewrap the bars with the old tape?
#3
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From: New Englander
Originally Posted by jjvw
The tape needs to come off if you want to change the brake levers which means you could go aero. Could you just carefully remove and rewrap the bars with the old tape?
#5
I've got some nice Shimano 600EX non-aero levers from 1984. Was thinking I'd put them on eBay along with the 600EX sidepull caliper brakes, but I could sell the levers separately if you want them. They're in perfect functional shape; there are some scratches on the aluminum and on the rubber but the hinge mechanism is still in perfect shape.
Whatever you do, you'll need to leave the mounting brackets on the handlebars (since you don't wanna remove the puffy grips) and screw the replacement levers into them. You may need to use the screw that came with your suicide-levers, since sometimes the threading is different between old-cheap-school stuff and nicer (or newer) stuff.
Whatever you do, you'll need to leave the mounting brackets on the handlebars (since you don't wanna remove the puffy grips) and screw the replacement levers into them. You may need to use the screw that came with your suicide-levers, since sometimes the threading is different between old-cheap-school stuff and nicer (or newer) stuff.
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
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#6
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I really like the good old Weinmann hooded levers which were commonly paired with Vainqueur 999 centerpulls, because they fit my smallish hands beautifully, allowing me to grab them quickly and securely.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#8
Death fork? Naaaah!!

Joined: Nov 2005
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From: The other Maine, north of RT 2
Bikes: Seriously downsizing.
Originally Posted by John E
I really like the good old Weinmann hooded levers which were commonly paired with Vainqueur 999 centerpulls, because they fit my smallish hands beautifully, allowing me to grab them quickly and securely.
I recently swapped out a pair of Mafrac levers for the Weinmans on my daughters bike because she couldn't reach the Mafracs.
What you can do is unscrew the saftey levers, cut the mounting stud/piviot off flush with the lever body, and polish it up nice. Or leave it rough and cover them with a set of hoods from loosescrews.
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#9
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From: New Englander
I actually have a pair of those Weinmann levers and yeah, they do look like a good size for my little hands. Plus they have a good shape. Sounds easy: remove extensions, get new hoods, all set.
Then again...the Shimano 600s would match the brakes perfectly, and it's always nice to have continuity. Plus they are nice.
Either way, I have options. Thanks guys.
Then again...the Shimano 600s would match the brakes perfectly, and it's always nice to have continuity. Plus they are nice.
Either way, I have options. Thanks guys.
Last edited by anastrophe; 03-28-07 at 06:44 AM.
#10
Craig A. Lebowitz
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Washington, DC
Bikes: 1984 Trek 520 | 2002 Specialized Hardrock
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#12
Originally Posted by anastrophe
I actually have a pair of those Weinmann levers and yeah, they do look like a good size for my little hands. Plus they have a good shape. Sounds easy: remove extensions, get new hoods, all set.
Or, you could saw off the offending part of that piece.
Here's what a brake lever looks like in the configuration you'd need it:
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#13
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Originally Posted by timcupery
If you're going to go this route, you not only need to remove the suicide-lever extensions, but you also need to get new whatever-they're-called that go through the brake-lever body (the thing on which the lever itself pivots). It sticks out on the inner side to attach suicide levers, and you need the type that doesn't stick out on either side, but is flush with the brake-lever body on both sides so you can fit rubber hoods over it.
Or, you could saw off the offending part of that piece. ...
Or, you could saw off the offending part of that piece. ...
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
Last edited by John E; 03-28-07 at 08:38 AM.
#14
Thread Starter
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From: New Englander
Originally Posted by timcupery
Or, you could saw off the offending part of that piece.
#15
Could you possibly soap up a piece of cable housing and slide it under the foam?
I wouldn't give up on aero quite so easily.
I wouldn't give up on aero quite so easily.
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#16
Thread Starter
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From: New Englander
Originally Posted by Little Darwin
Could you possibly soap up a piece of cable housing and slide it under the foam?
I wouldn't give up on aero quite so easily.
I wouldn't give up on aero quite so easily.

#17
I need to read more closely.
I am guessing that what you have would make it difficult to slide under...
I am guessing that what you have would make it difficult to slide under...
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Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
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#18
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From: Davis, CA.
Bikes: '78 Raleigh Grand Prix, '85 Trek 510
What make of levers do you have now, because those weinmann levers usually use the same bolt as the suicide lever ones. If this is the case you can unscrew the mounting screw and slide the lever body off, and replace it with the weinmann body, that way the mounting band never leaves the bar and you can keep your grip.
#19
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From: Citrus County, Fl
Bikes: 1983 Puch Odyssey, 2004 Giant OCR3
I took the suicide levers off my Dia-Comps and then cut the pivot off so it was the right length. To hold it still, I put a screw through the hole in the pivot and screwed it down to a saw horse. Then I cut it off with a hacksaw. I put black aftermarket hoods on it and you can't even tell it ever had the suicide levers. What amazed me was how light the levers were, substantially lighter than the new aero levers. I also love the little lever that allows the brakes to open for wheel changes, much easier than on my newer bike with dual pivot calipers.
#20
The Legitimiser
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From: Southampton, UK
Bikes: Gazelle Trim Trophy, EG Bates Track Bike, HR Bates Cantiflex bike, Nigel Dean fixed gear conversion, Raleigh Royal, Falcon Westminster.
I think that usually, if that foam has been on there for 20 years, it's more or less become one with the bars. I removed some off a bike, and it was a job, believe me! I have some rather sexy Modolo levers, black anodized with white hoods. If that goes in any way with the looks of your bike, give me a shout.
#21
Thread Starter
practically invincible.
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From: New Englander
Originally Posted by Boatdesigner
I also love the little lever that allows the brakes to open for wheel changes, much easier than on my newer bike with dual pivot calipers.
#22
Thread Starter
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From: New Englander
Those Modolos really are sexy. Very, very sexy. The bike's black and red though, I think the white hoods would look a little funny...better hold on to them for a bike that's more aesthetically worthy.
#23
The Legitimiser
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From: Southampton, UK
Bikes: Gazelle Trim Trophy, EG Bates Track Bike, HR Bates Cantiflex bike, Nigel Dean fixed gear conversion, Raleigh Royal, Falcon Westminster.
Well, they're available for trade/sale to anyone that wants!






