Cuda Mk.I Wheel build - Take II
#1
Thread Starter
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
Cuda Mk.I Wheel build - Take II
This is for pastorbob and everyone else out there thinking they might try to build their own wheels...
Yesterday I got a package in from Cambria Bike with the third set of spokes for this build, the new 27" wheels for the Barracuda Mk.I. Parts include a NOS pair of Araya 27x1 rims, Shimano 333 High Flange hubs and DT Swiss Champion DB 2.0/1.8 spokes.
I setup the truing stand, all of the parts, my laptop and tools on the table and started with the front wheel. Following Sheldon Brown's directions on wheel building I soon ran into the first minor issue, the spoke drilling on the rim put the key spoke one hole away from the valve hole instead of right next to it. Sheldon's website mentioned this possibility but all of the images were shown with the key spoke next to the valve hole which threw me for a mental loop a bit. It took a couple minutes of triple checking what I was looking at before I proceeded with the first two sets of spokes. Unfortnutely somewhere along the line I still hadn't gotten it right and after placing my first leading side spoke I had a crossing spoke right above the valve hole.
So back apart it came and I redid everything one more time, realizing where I'd gone wrong and going again on the first two sets of spokes. This time when I laced the first leading spoke to the opposite side of the valve hole, everything was perfect, the two spokes were parallel giving all the space needed to get in on the valve. The third and fourth set of spokes went in and I started tensioning up the spokes. Slowly going around the wheel, trying to even up the tension as I went. Tension started coming up and I pulled out my new Park TM-1 tension meter and the guide and started to check where the tension was and how they related to each other.
I soon discovered that there was a small problem with the tool. The pivot screw had come slightly loose and was causing the two plates of the tool to rub against each other introducing addtional friction which was throwing off the accuracy of the readings. Oddly enough the screw took a SAE size allen tool to tighten up. I plan to dab the back side of the screw with some glue soon to keep it from getting loose again.
Front wheel I was able to get the tension pretty close and the wheel true and round. Maybe a little fine tuning to do after the first couple of rides, but hopefully that will be minor.






Yesterday I got a package in from Cambria Bike with the third set of spokes for this build, the new 27" wheels for the Barracuda Mk.I. Parts include a NOS pair of Araya 27x1 rims, Shimano 333 High Flange hubs and DT Swiss Champion DB 2.0/1.8 spokes.
I setup the truing stand, all of the parts, my laptop and tools on the table and started with the front wheel. Following Sheldon Brown's directions on wheel building I soon ran into the first minor issue, the spoke drilling on the rim put the key spoke one hole away from the valve hole instead of right next to it. Sheldon's website mentioned this possibility but all of the images were shown with the key spoke next to the valve hole which threw me for a mental loop a bit. It took a couple minutes of triple checking what I was looking at before I proceeded with the first two sets of spokes. Unfortnutely somewhere along the line I still hadn't gotten it right and after placing my first leading side spoke I had a crossing spoke right above the valve hole.
So back apart it came and I redid everything one more time, realizing where I'd gone wrong and going again on the first two sets of spokes. This time when I laced the first leading spoke to the opposite side of the valve hole, everything was perfect, the two spokes were parallel giving all the space needed to get in on the valve. The third and fourth set of spokes went in and I started tensioning up the spokes. Slowly going around the wheel, trying to even up the tension as I went. Tension started coming up and I pulled out my new Park TM-1 tension meter and the guide and started to check where the tension was and how they related to each other.
I soon discovered that there was a small problem with the tool. The pivot screw had come slightly loose and was causing the two plates of the tool to rub against each other introducing addtional friction which was throwing off the accuracy of the readings. Oddly enough the screw took a SAE size allen tool to tighten up. I plan to dab the back side of the screw with some glue soon to keep it from getting loose again.
Front wheel I was able to get the tension pretty close and the wheel true and round. Maybe a little fine tuning to do after the first couple of rides, but hopefully that will be minor.
#2
Don't call me sir
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 615
Likes: 1
From: Charlottesville, VA
Bikes: 1954 Holdsworth 3 speed, 1969 Bob Jackson, 1988 Miyata Twelve Hundred (retired), 1989 Schwinn Paramount, 2004 Santa Cruz Blur Classic, 2012 Specialized P3, 2013 Specialized Roubaix Expert Disc
I feel for you.
I just tried my first truing yesterday. It was humbling.
I will be building my first wheel for class on next tuesday. I will let you know if it is any easier with a professional at your side. I'm guessing no.
Rob
I just tried my first truing yesterday. It was humbling.
I will be building my first wheel for class on next tuesday. I will let you know if it is any easier with a professional at your side. I'm guessing no.
Rob
#3
You Know!? For Kids!



Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,166
Likes: 29
From: Just NW of Richardson Bike Mart
Bikes: '05 Trek 1200 / '90 Trek 8000 / '? Falcon Europa
Congrats!!! So do I need to start saving money to buy some wheels for the Falcon from you?
__________________
Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
#4
Thread Starter
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
Originally Posted by jsharr
Congrats!!! So do I need to start saving money to buy some wheels for the Falcon from you?
I started work on the rear wheel last night as well, I'll get some photos of it up soon. I have a feeling there is a fair bit more work to be done on it. That and I might have goofed on the spoke length a little as the non-drive side spokes are showing a fair bit of threads still on a few spokes, but I won't judge on that until everything is trued up and completed.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 255
Likes: 1
From: Brooklyn, NY
I just hope the sriracha isn't for lubricating the spoke nipples.
#6
Death fork? Naaaah!!

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,516
Likes: 897
From: The other Maine, north of RT 2
Bikes: Seriously downsizing.
Originally Posted by cuda2k
Yesterday I got a package in from Cambria Bike with the third set of spokes for this build, the new 27" wheels for the Barracuda Mk.I. Parts include a NOS pair of Araya 27x1 rims, Shimano 333 High Flange hubs and DT Swiss Champion DB 2.0/1.8 spokes.
Top
__________________
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#7
Freewheel Medic



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,512
Likes: 3,179
From: An Island on the Coast of GA!
Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)
Originally Posted by cuda2k
This is for pastorbob and everyone else out there thinking they might try to build their own wheels...
You know I hope to inspire people on Sunday mornings, but always find it humbling when I inspire people here at C&V. With that said, I still find wheel building to be the most intimidating and possibly the only intimidating thing left to do in vintage bicycle work. Oh how I wish someone would offer a convient class in basic wheel building near me.
But look at wheel building from a different angle: I've spent $160 for each set of wheels my (not so) LBS has built for me. While that seems like a significant amount of $$$, if I were to consider the cost of spokes ($50-75 from Nashbar, etc. (LBS charges $72 for spokes)), plus five to ten hours of my time, well, $160 seems like a bargain!
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
#8
Spelling Snob
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,862
Likes: 2
From: Plano, Texas
Bikes: Panasonic DX4000, Bianchi Pista
Ive only built one wheel before (with used spokes) and I was very lucky that it worked. I trued it on the bike since I dont have a truing stand. Great work Cuda.
__________________

The first rule of flats is You don't talk about flats!

The first rule of flats is You don't talk about flats!
#9
#10
é wot?
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Inner Canuckistan
Bikes: Gary Fisher Montare, 1973 Bottechia, IRO Jamie Roy,1998 Cervelo Eyre Tri, 1982 Peugeot Sport fixed gear, and some kind of red bike hanging in the rafters
Always enjoy seeing a wheel come together
what an amazing structure it really is!
What are your thoughts on that 333 hub? I have one still in the package that I was thinking of using soon.
what an amazing structure it really is!What are your thoughts on that 333 hub? I have one still in the package that I was thinking of using soon.
#11
Thread Starter
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
Spoke lengths that I calculated were 295 for the front, 295 and 293 for the rear. I think the rear could have been better with a 294/292mm, but I haven't finished truing and evening then tension yet so I'll hold judgement on that for now.
The Shimano 333 hubs aren't as smooth or as nicely polished as my Campagnolo record hubs, but that's no big surprise. I bought both hubs used and repacked with new bearings both front and rear. They feel fairly smooth and they polished up decently with a little work with the polish. I really wanted to go high flange on this wheelset just for the look on the bike. The extra metal probably negates any advantage in spoke or rim weight over the old set I had, but I'm not going for a light weight bike by any means so no worries there.
The Shimano 333 hubs aren't as smooth or as nicely polished as my Campagnolo record hubs, but that's no big surprise. I bought both hubs used and repacked with new bearings both front and rear. They feel fairly smooth and they polished up decently with a little work with the polish. I really wanted to go high flange on this wheelset just for the look on the bike. The extra metal probably negates any advantage in spoke or rim weight over the old set I had, but I'm not going for a light weight bike by any means so no worries there.
#12
Chrome Freak
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 26
From: Kuna, ID
Bikes: 71 Chrome Paramount P13-9, 73 Opaque Blue Paramount P15, 74 Blue Mink Raleigh Pro, 91 Waterford Paramount, Holland Titanium x2
I setup the truing stand, all of the parts, my laptop and tools on the table and started with the front wheel. Following Sheldon Brown's directions on wheel building I soon ran into the first minor issue, the spoke drilling on the rim put the key spoke one hole away from the valve hole instead of right next to it. Sheldon's website mentioned this possibility but all of the images were shown with the key spoke next to the valve hole which threw me for a mental loop a bit. It took a couple minutes of triple checking what I was looking at before I proceeded with the first two sets of spokes. Unfortnutely somewhere along the line I still hadn't gotten it right and after placing my first leading side spoke I had a crossing spoke right above the valve hole.
Nice job! Just think-every time you ride you are looking down at YOUR wheels. I get a lot of satisfaction from that, also from finally getting over my fear of building wheels. Plus, you get some bragging rights!
__________________
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#13
Señor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,448
Likes: 1,534
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Originally Posted by cuda2k
Spoke lengths that I calculated were 295 for the front, 295 and 293 for the rear. I think the rear could have been better with a 294/292mm, but I haven't finished truing and evening then tension yet so I'll hold judgement on that for now.
The Shimano 333 hubs aren't as smooth or as nicely polished as my Campagnolo record hubs, but that's no big surprise. I bought both hubs used and repacked with new bearings both front and rear. They feel fairly smooth and they polished up decently with a little work with the polish. I really wanted to go high flange on this wheelset just for the look on the bike. The extra metal probably negates any advantage in spoke or rim weight over the old set I had, but I'm not going for a light weight bike by any means so no worries there.
The Shimano 333 hubs aren't as smooth or as nicely polished as my Campagnolo record hubs, but that's no big surprise. I bought both hubs used and repacked with new bearings both front and rear. They feel fairly smooth and they polished up decently with a little work with the polish. I really wanted to go high flange on this wheelset just for the look on the bike. The extra metal probably negates any advantage in spoke or rim weight over the old set I had, but I'm not going for a light weight bike by any means so no worries there.
Building wheels is nothing to be afraid of. Pulling apart a Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub on the other hand...
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#14
Broom Wagon Fodder
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 64
From: Minnesota
Bikes: Fuji Supreme; Kona Wo; Nashbar road frame custom build; Schwinn Varsity; Nishiki International; Schwinn Premis, Falcon Merckx, American Flyer muscle bike, Motobecane Mulekick
Cool! I read The Bicycle Wheel over the winter and successfully trued up the mildly taco-ed wheels on that $40 Fuji Supreme for my wife but I haven't had a suitable project that requires building a wheel yet. I'm looking forward to it but I'm also scared to death by it!
#15
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
Likes: 12
From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
building my first set of wheels and riding them was probably one of the most
satisfying things I've done in terms of bike maintenance.
scary at first but with a bit of practice not all that difficult.
marty
satisfying things I've done in terms of bike maintenance.
scary at first but with a bit of practice not all that difficult.
marty
__________________
Sono più lento di quel che sembra.
Odio la gente, tutti.
Want to upgrade your membership? Click Here.
Sono più lento di quel che sembra.
Odio la gente, tutti.
Want to upgrade your membership? Click Here.
#16
NFL Owner

Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 15
From: Irving Heritage District
Bikes: 7-Eleven Eddy Merckx, Vitus Futural, Catamount FRS, Colnago SL, SS MTB
Where's the beer? I've always built wheels with a beer handy. But only one. More than one and problems start to crop up in the build.
#17
Thread Starter
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
I was still on a couple Advil regiment after having 7 moles biopsied at the dermatologist Monday night when I was working on this. Thus, no beer. I will however likely break out some of the Tito's Vodka that I received for my birthday when I go in for round two on the rear wheel. Looking at the wheel briefly this morning I could tell that the spokes should be the right length, but I can tell that the tension is fairly uneven on each side which is causing some oddness in the wheel.
#18
Originally Posted by monogodo
Where's the beer? I've always built wheels with a beer handy. But only one. More than one and problems start to crop up in the build.
Calm music helps. I love bluegrass and bag pipes but not during a truing session. And the kids need to be in bed for sure.
Lacing is the fun part. I can do that while watching PINKS or some such on TV. But tensioning and truing...
What was the line from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintainance...
"Assembly of Japanese bike take great peace of mind."
#19
59'er
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,307
Likes: 11
From: Alexandria, IN
Bikes: LeMond Maillot Jaune, Vintage Trek 520 (1985), 1976 Schwinn Voyageur 2, Miyata 1000 (1985)
Originally Posted by monogodo
Where's the beer? I've always built wheels with a beer handy. But only one. More than one and problems start to crop up in the build.
__________________
#20
Thread Starter
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
Haha, if you look close there's actually to (empty) bottles of wine in the shots.
#21
Thread Starter
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
Well, only nearly a MONTH later, the wheels are done. Both are trued up, running round as I could get them (which is pretty darn round if I say so myself) and ready for the road. Tried to stress relieve them according to sheldon's instructions, but have this feeling that a few rounds of truing are probably in the future.
Here's the photos:




Here's the photos:
#23
Don't call me sir
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 615
Likes: 1
From: Charlottesville, VA
Bikes: 1954 Holdsworth 3 speed, 1969 Bob Jackson, 1988 Miyata Twelve Hundred (retired), 1989 Schwinn Paramount, 2004 Santa Cruz Blur Classic, 2012 Specialized P3, 2013 Specialized Roubaix Expert Disc
Congratulations! I hope they roll as good as they look.
I just built my first set on tuesday. Man, is it a test of patience.
Rob
I just built my first set on tuesday. Man, is it a test of patience.
Rob
#24
Chrome Freak
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 26
From: Kuna, ID
Bikes: 71 Chrome Paramount P13-9, 73 Opaque Blue Paramount P15, 74 Blue Mink Raleigh Pro, 91 Waterford Paramount, Holland Titanium x2
Nice work!
It is a very satisfying feeling to ride on wheels YOU built!
It is a very satisfying feeling to ride on wheels YOU built!
__________________
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#25
I have built three, I am glueing the tires later this afternoon and tomorrow the first 2 will be ready for the maiden voyage.
__________________
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear







