Advice Sought on Upgrades/Replacement...
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 18
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From: San Francycle
Bikes: 1988 Trek 400T, Cannondale 1999 M400
Advice Sought on Upgrades/Replacement...
First off, this site has been such a wealth of information.
So here's the story...
I bought a used 1988 Trek 400T a little less than two weeks ago, which I posted about here.
I've since put about 100 miles on it and I love the way it rides. I've also given it a good tune up.
When I got it, I noticed that the wheels are Mavic GP-4 rims with Campy Chorus hubs and Hutchinson tires of an unknown model (with a good amount of life left in them so I'm told). These are not original. Also the RD is Campy Nuovo Record and is not original and is not a long cage (I have a triple).
What I didn't know about the tires at the time is that they are tubulars. For me, I don't like the idea of going on long rides and risking a flat somewhere and not being able to change it as easily (some might dispute that this is not true - feel free to chime in). Also the cost of replacements are pricey.
So there's a couple of changes I'm thinking about making:
- Changing the wheels to clinchers (maybe)
- Replacing the campy RD with a Shimano (period correct) so that the indexing (SIS) works properly (it's on friction right now), and that there's no slack in the chain when in the granny gear (is that even a problem if there is? I don't know). I'd also get a new freewheel (six speed) and chain at the same time. (Definitely).
I have a couple of questions here:
- Should I not worry about tubulars? Something tells me that if I changed to clinchers, the wheels going in might not be as good as what's leaving (b/c I couldn't afford a similar level of quality). Or if I do change, should I keep the campy hubs and just get some new rims, tires, spokes? Any suggestions on rims? Would love a good balance between durability and being light weight without spending a ton. I don't know what something comparable would be (doesn't have to be Mavic either). The other option is to ebay the wheel set completely (they seem to have good resale value: 60-175 depending on the condition) and use the proceeds for new rims.
- Are there restrictions in RDs that I could use given that the freewheel is only a six speed? I was looking to get a 105 level period correct RD, but am not sure what kind/model would work here.
One last thing is that I don't mind spending a little money for the parts - I will do (most) labor myself and consider all this part of the learning process (I am new to wrenching but love it so far). I figure a used RD, new chain and freewheel would probably run me $65 give or take plus a freewheel remover. As for the rims, if I build up on the old campy hubs, that's a different story - might let the LBS do that but am not sure.
Thanks in advance for the help/advice.
So here's the story...
I bought a used 1988 Trek 400T a little less than two weeks ago, which I posted about here.
I've since put about 100 miles on it and I love the way it rides. I've also given it a good tune up.
When I got it, I noticed that the wheels are Mavic GP-4 rims with Campy Chorus hubs and Hutchinson tires of an unknown model (with a good amount of life left in them so I'm told). These are not original. Also the RD is Campy Nuovo Record and is not original and is not a long cage (I have a triple).
What I didn't know about the tires at the time is that they are tubulars. For me, I don't like the idea of going on long rides and risking a flat somewhere and not being able to change it as easily (some might dispute that this is not true - feel free to chime in). Also the cost of replacements are pricey.
So there's a couple of changes I'm thinking about making:
- Changing the wheels to clinchers (maybe)
- Replacing the campy RD with a Shimano (period correct) so that the indexing (SIS) works properly (it's on friction right now), and that there's no slack in the chain when in the granny gear (is that even a problem if there is? I don't know). I'd also get a new freewheel (six speed) and chain at the same time. (Definitely).
I have a couple of questions here:
- Should I not worry about tubulars? Something tells me that if I changed to clinchers, the wheels going in might not be as good as what's leaving (b/c I couldn't afford a similar level of quality). Or if I do change, should I keep the campy hubs and just get some new rims, tires, spokes? Any suggestions on rims? Would love a good balance between durability and being light weight without spending a ton. I don't know what something comparable would be (doesn't have to be Mavic either). The other option is to ebay the wheel set completely (they seem to have good resale value: 60-175 depending on the condition) and use the proceeds for new rims.
- Are there restrictions in RDs that I could use given that the freewheel is only a six speed? I was looking to get a 105 level period correct RD, but am not sure what kind/model would work here.
One last thing is that I don't mind spending a little money for the parts - I will do (most) labor myself and consider all this part of the learning process (I am new to wrenching but love it so far). I figure a used RD, new chain and freewheel would probably run me $65 give or take plus a freewheel remover. As for the rims, if I build up on the old campy hubs, that's a different story - might let the LBS do that but am not sure.
Thanks in advance for the help/advice.
#2
Tubulars - I have them on three of my bikes and have yet to flat, but I don't ride them as often as my Casati. For moderate cost, the Hutchison Reflex tubulars I have on my '84 Trek seem to have a good cost/ride trade-off. The GP4 tubular is not a big demand rim, unfortunately (had a set to sell myself). With the added shipping cost, you might find that you actually could net just as much if you sold the hubs by themselves. I build my own wheels, but buying spokes and rims in limited quantites is rarely cost effective. If you buy a used wheelset stay away from Uniglide.
The RD - sell off the NR and get more than enough back to pick up a used Shimano 600 SIS that will work on any Shimano index system from 6 speeds on up. I think the tri-color (model #64xx) is a good one to have. If you want to stay 6 speed indexed and need shifters this is a great deal.
Also: does your RD have a patent date on the top of it?
The RD - sell off the NR and get more than enough back to pick up a used Shimano 600 SIS that will work on any Shimano index system from 6 speeds on up. I think the tri-color (model #64xx) is a good one to have. If you want to stay 6 speed indexed and need shifters this is a great deal.
Also: does your RD have a patent date on the top of it?
#3
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: San Francycle
Bikes: 1988 Trek 400T, Cannondale 1999 M400
Originally Posted by vpiuva
Tubulars - I have them on three of my bikes and have yet to flat, but I don't ride them as often as my Casati. For moderate cost, the Hutchison Reflex tubulars I have on my '84 Trek seem to have a good cost/ride trade-off. The GP4 tubular is not a big demand rim, unfortunately (had a set to sell myself). With the added shipping cost, you might find that you actually could net just as much if you sold the hubs by themselves. I build my own wheels, but buying spokes and rims in limited quantites is rarely cost effective. If you buy a used wheelset stay away from Uniglide.
The RD - sell off the NR and get more than enough back to pick up a used Shimano 600 SIS that will work on any Shimano index system from 6 speeds on up. I think the tri-color (model #64xx) is a good one to have. If you want to stay 6 speed indexed and need shifters this is a great deal.
Also: does your RD have a patent date on the top of it?
The RD - sell off the NR and get more than enough back to pick up a used Shimano 600 SIS that will work on any Shimano index system from 6 speeds on up. I think the tri-color (model #64xx) is a good one to have. If you want to stay 6 speed indexed and need shifters this is a great deal.
Also: does your RD have a patent date on the top of it?
I still have some thinking to do about the wheels. As I am not the original owner, I have no idea how many miles are on them or how hard they were ridden. I've had a couple of others tell me they're not in bad shape. It seems like from what you're saying though the options are (in order of cost effectiveness): sell the hubs, sell the complete wheelset, keep the hubs and build new around them. Or just keep them outright. Need to mull it over some more.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 962
Likes: 30
Tubulars
People are going to argue this, but if I were you I would change to clinchers. Tubulars can be wonderful to ride on, but they can also be a supreme pain in the ass. they can even be DANGEROUS for neophytes. They can roll around, or even off the rim if not mounted properly and well, and can be difficult for newbies to mount anyway.
They can be rediculously expensive,(upwards of $250 apiece!).
I had one blow off a rim in mid flight down a hill once, and it was all I could do to keep from crashing and burning. I actually was braking the bike while my Mafac poor rim was skidding on the asphalt.
Unless you are very light weight, and can get by with "training" tires (because they are heavier made), you're gonna have trouble.
They can be rediculously expensive,(upwards of $250 apiece!).
I had one blow off a rim in mid flight down a hill once, and it was all I could do to keep from crashing and burning. I actually was braking the bike while my Mafac poor rim was skidding on the asphalt.
Unless you are very light weight, and can get by with "training" tires (because they are heavier made), you're gonna have trouble.
#6
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,403
Likes: 1,871
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I gave up tubulars shortly after I moved to San Diego County, and never looked back. They were sort of fun for about 10 years, back when I had alot fewer demands on my time, but repairs were a royal pain.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: San Francycle
Bikes: 1988 Trek 400T, Cannondale 1999 M400
Originally Posted by intron
if you do decide to get rid of the wheels i'd be interested in the rims, if they are not totally trashed, and 32H . i have a 600 SIS RD to trade, and matching DT index shifters.


Thanks for everyone else who chimed in about tubulars as you confirmed my suspicions. So, anyone have a good wheelset recommendation?





