Have any Canucks found Oxalic acid? I have asked at a couple of different Home Depots and local hardware stores and they have never heard of it, is it labeled as something different here in Canada? Thanks.

Not a Canuck but try a drugstore or you can purchase it online. It is also really good at removing rust stains from sinks, tubs, dishwashers etc. https://www.cheap-chemicals.com/chemicals.asp?Sort=O

does home depot have any of this product?

I couldn't find it there - had to go to Orchard Supply.

I can't believe Home Depot wouldn't have it; you'd probably have to ask for it as 'wood bleach' though.

I struck out at Lowes and Home Depot here in Oregon. However Ace Hardware carries Oxalic acid as a 'wood bleach'. $7.99 as I recall.

No help for our Canadian friends, but Rockler Woodworking stocks it:
https://www.rockler.com/retail/retail.cfm

Just about any woodworking store should have it. I have also been able to get it through my local pharmacy when I lived off the beaten path.

It is stocked in the paint dept. with other wood finishing products.

Home Depot in Phoenix does not carry oxalic acid. They do have a 'wood bleach', but is not 100% OA.

In So Cal, Home Depot didn't stock it, but Lowes did.

Anybody have any luck taking off the rust from spoke nipples? Do you just dip the whole rim into the oxalic acid bath? Would it discolor the aluminum rim? I'm assuming anodized rims are a no-no.

If the nipple isn't too rusty, but beyond steel wool, I would take the Dremel (thanks for the advice guys) to it. You should be able to do that will little fuss and no chemicals.

Anyone ever tried electrolysis and oxalic acid? Many years ago I worked in a museum restoring antique equipment and when we had stuck parts we would mix up some chemicals and connect the parts backwards from normal plating causing rust partials to be drawn off the stuck parts to a peace of old copper pipe. Normal plating battery connections have the parts to be plated connected to the negative post of the battery and the plating material connected to the positive post of the battery. We used an old 6-volt car battery that was supplying about 3 volts and we connected the positive battery post to the stuck part like a piston and the negative post to the old copper pipe. I just wonder if using about 3 volts DC in addition to oxalic acid would speed the process, as the rust would be drawn away from the part as the oxalic acid works on it.

https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Brightene.../dp/B000FGLRRO Dont know if this is the same but is says mix with water and its one lb.

Simichrome and super fine sandpaper 1500+ always work well for me.

So how did you keep the corrosion from coming back? What about pitting?

Sorry, I'm really impressed with this whole thing, I would almost want to go find something rusty just so I can try it.

I never tried oxalic acid but use phosphoric acid frequently

It can be found at Lowes in liquid form (green stuff).
Works quite well

I apply a good coating of automotive wax. I polish and coat all my chrome parts with wax. This seals the chrome surface from the elements so the chrome will stay bright, shiny, and rust free for months at a time. As for pitting, you just got to live with that or have it re-chromed. For some vintage bikes the pitting provides a bit of patina enhancing the vintage bike visual effect.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patina
In effect it allows the vintage bike to tell everyone that looks its way; I'm old, proud, and cyclists love me!

I haven't really addressed the corrosion issue yet. I just finished the other half of the fork and decided I can live with it the way it is. The fork is Columbus SL, I presume, and it polished up nicely by hand. I'll post pictures tomorrow in a different thread.

I'm thinking that I could just throw a coat of wax on it, or maybe screw around with a rattle can clear coat. I'm open to ideas after I post better pictures and get everyone's feedback.

There is still evidence of pitting visible, but no rust. The frame it belongs to is in good shape (pics tomorrow), but the decals are ON TOP of everything, and a bit brittle, so I am hesitant to be too aggressive with it. A short bit of easy buffing on decal-less surfaces with a light rubbing compound produced no noticeable results. It's never gonna shine like bigbossman's Palo Alto, that's for sure!