Show Us Your 650B Conversions
#626
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HI y'all, lots of great bikes in here, always appreciate the eye candy! My question is in regards to the long reach brakes that folks are using for these conversions. It seems that breaking power would be reduced with use, any thoughts or experiences. I have an early Centurion Pro Tour with center pull studs and have considered going 650b but am concerned about the stopping power. Thanks everyone!
#627
Senior Member
HI y'all, lots of great bikes in here, always appreciate the eye candy! My question is in regards to the long reach brakes that folks are using for these conversions. It seems that breaking power would be reduced with use, any thoughts or experiences. I have an early Centurion Pro Tour with center pull studs and have considered going 650b but am concerned about the stopping power. Thanks everyone!
However, an original Pro Tour with brazed on center pull studs is a fairly rare thing. I would hate to see them cut off. I encourage you to keep it stock, and find another bike to convert to 650B.
I wonder if Dia Compe 750 calipers on the existing studs would work. Anyone tried this? Perhaps that's what you meant?
#628
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#629
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I’ll also echo @Salamandrine’s thought to try Dia-Compe/Weinmann 750 arms on those posts. All it takes to make them fit is to disassemble the pivots and press out the metal sleeve. I’ve certainly been impressed by the braking power of a post-mounted centerpull with modern pads on my Gugificazione’d Miyata.
I’ve switched back and forth on the Marinoni with 650B (38mm Compass tires, biggest that fit inside the fork) using Tektro long-reach dual pivots, and 700C (32mm Compass) with Dura-Ace short reach dual pivots. Both brake versions use Kool Stop salmon pads. Braking power and feel is not an issue, although it’s just slightly better with the 700C setup (those DA are really nice brakes!). The long-reach Tektros are well-designed and built using longer arms everywhere to compensate.
I’ve concluded for that bike and it’s geometry, I prefer the handling with the 700x32’s and their ride quality is certainly nice, but the soft surface capability of the 650x38’s has applications, such as @scozim’s mixed surface Palouse Adventure last summer. I’ve also concluded that I’m just not destined to be regular gravel rider.
#630
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My only problem now is that the MAFAC Raid brakes don't seem to want to stay centered. It's very hard to keep the pads aligned to the rim. Eventually I would like to refine it with brake posts, rack and maybe a tiny bit more tire clearance in the rear. And some fresh paint.
1973 Raleigh Competition 650b
1973 Raleigh Competition 650b
Brazed on posts help by eliminating one of the variables, and stiffen the entire assembly.
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#631
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Thank you!
Also, in answer to the braking question -- I do notice a difference with the longer arms. When I was running MAFAC Racers on this bike with 27-inch wheels, it felt like I was hitting a wall when I hit the brakes. I was really impressed with how they measured up against my modern bike with v-brakes. With the Raid brakes and 650b, the Kool Stop pads are an improvement, but braking power is noticeably less than with the old set up. I really enjoy this set up, so the braking is not a deterrent for me from using 650b, but it was better before. I should note that I am using center-mounted calipers -- I have no mounting posts.
Also, in answer to the braking question -- I do notice a difference with the longer arms. When I was running MAFAC Racers on this bike with 27-inch wheels, it felt like I was hitting a wall when I hit the brakes. I was really impressed with how they measured up against my modern bike with v-brakes. With the Raid brakes and 650b, the Kool Stop pads are an improvement, but braking power is noticeably less than with the old set up. I really enjoy this set up, so the braking is not a deterrent for me from using 650b, but it was better before. I should note that I am using center-mounted calipers -- I have no mounting posts.
#632
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Back to the bike in the thread: well done. Is it a Motobecane? I can’t make it out on my phone.
Last edited by mountaindave; 11-10-18 at 01:13 PM.
#633
Senior Member
I’ll echo @Dfrost: different generation of Pro Tour. My ‘79 Pro Tour has post-mount centerpulls and was designed for 27” wheels. I did a 700c conversion and had to swap the front (I think) Dia Compe 610 for a 750. No way I’m going to 650b in that bike - it was already designed for good clearance and fenders. Probably can’t get to 38’s and fenders, but I’m going to try. Might even need to dimple the chainstays.
No one seems to remember BITD there really just weren't fatter tires around, and it doesn't surprise me that retrofitting them can be problematic. Standard for touring was 27 x 1 1/4 or maybe 700x32. I remember when the Specialized Expedition came out with it's 1 3/8" tires, and we all said, "wow, those are fat!"
Last edited by Salamandrine; 11-10-18 at 09:01 AM.
#634
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78 Pro Tour converted to 650B - Centurion Pro Tour all-chrome 650B townie « djcatnap.com
There's a thread by the owner here. Centurion Pro Tour - restoration and 650B conversion
There's a thread by the owner here. Centurion Pro Tour - restoration and 650B conversion
Last edited by Vintage_Cyclist; 11-10-18 at 09:25 AM.
#635
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The blue Centurion is a Semi Pro, not a Pro Tour.
#636
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I converted a semi-pro to 650b x 38mm. It was an excellent rider.
Last edited by nlerner; 11-10-18 at 11:34 AM.
#637
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No one seems to remember BITD there really just weren't fatter tires around, and it doesn't surprise me that retrofitting them can be problematic. Standard for touring was 27 x 1 1/4 or maybe 700x32. I remember when the Specialized Expedition came out with it's 1 3/8" tires, and we all said, "wow, those are fat!"
#638
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Hi y'all and thanks for the replies! There should be no worry about the center pull studs being removed on my pro tour, and yes DC750's would work to convert to 650b. I was mainly asking the question because I see so many custom builders building 650b bikes with center pull studs brazed on, and besides aesthetics, can't understand the decision if it means compromising braking power. For a conversion I see it making sense to use long reach center pulls, or other long reach brakes, out of necessity though.
#639
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With the advent of “Gravel” wide tires are back in style. So maybe 27” to 700 C is the new 650B conversion.
#641
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Hi y'all and thanks for the replies! There should be no worry about the center pull studs being removed on my pro tour, and yes DC750's would work to convert to 650b. I was mainly asking the question because I see so many custom builders building 650b bikes with center pull studs brazed on, and besides aesthetics, can't understand the decision if it means compromising braking power. For a conversion I see it making sense to use long reach center pulls, or other long reach brakes, out of necessity though.
Brake selection needs to be done as an integrated part of the bike as a whole.
#642
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#643
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I agree thst one bike should suffice for almost all types of riding (sans racing), reality is that a not insignificant portion of the high end bike market is supported by a not very large group of riders.
#644
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I’d be interested in knowing how many bikes the average Elfdom rider has. I personally know over a dozen Rivendell owners, most of them have multiple bikes, and most of those have multiple Rivendells. Without these recidivist owners, I’m not sure Grants business model would work.
I agree thst one bike should suffice for almost all types of riding (sans racing), reality is that a not insignificant portion of the high end bike market is supported by a not very large group of riders.
#645
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I don’t think I would go as far as to use recidivist, “a habitual criminal.” The entire point of using Rivendell as an example is to show the one bike theory. Which is in contrast to the having a bike for every day of week. I get that depending on your interested you might have several types of bikes. But some people take it to extremes. I better quit while I’m behind.
Also note the interwebs is missing a universal and standard sarcasm font.
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#647
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#648
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#649
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HI y'all, lots of great bikes in here, always appreciate the eye candy! My question is in regards to the long reach brakes that folks are using for these conversions. It seems that breaking power would be reduced with use, any thoughts or experiences. I have an early Centurion Pro Tour with center pull studs and have considered going 650b but am concerned about the stopping power. Thanks everyone!
Give them a try if they'll work with your frame/wheel.
#650
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Wow, no posts in this thread since November 2018!
Kind of surprised since (for me at least) winter seems to bring out the urge to fiddle with bikes that were perfectly fine before
Here's my latest:
1981 Trek 716
Velocity A23 36 hole polished rims
Shimano 600EX hubs
Compass/Rene Herse Loup-Loup Pass 650Bx38 extralight
Sun XCD crankset / Velo Orange 46/30 chainrings
Shimano 600EX FD/RD/Brake Levers
Tektro R559 brakes
Velo Orange "Model 6" saddle
Acorn Tall Rando Bag / Velo Orange "Randonneur" Rack & Decaleur
I rode this bike for the first time in this configuration on a 106km RUSA Permanent through Ogle and Dekalb counties on Saturday. Maybe a bold decision to launch out on a big ride after making so many big changes, but it worked out perfectly
I have done a conversion before on a 1985 Schwinn Tempo that worked okay, but this bike just feels right with 650B wheels. Full 531DB frameset and super supple tires made for such a smooth ride, I was blown away. At one point on the route, I was riding along the shoulder of a highway with full-width rumble strips across the whole 7 foot shoulder, each section about 5 feet long with serrations cut into the pavement about an inch deep, and I could barely feel them as I rode over. It was really something special to feel.
Super happy with how this build turned out. Currently I'm switching things over to Campagnolo Mirage 8 speed ergos shifting across a Shimano 7 speed rear cassette, but even now it's a super capable, super comfortable long-distance machine.
I'm super excited to stretch its legs over the upcoming randonneuring season.
Kind of surprised since (for me at least) winter seems to bring out the urge to fiddle with bikes that were perfectly fine before
Here's my latest:
1981 Trek 716
Velocity A23 36 hole polished rims
Shimano 600EX hubs
Compass/Rene Herse Loup-Loup Pass 650Bx38 extralight
Sun XCD crankset / Velo Orange 46/30 chainrings
Shimano 600EX FD/RD/Brake Levers
Tektro R559 brakes
Velo Orange "Model 6" saddle
Acorn Tall Rando Bag / Velo Orange "Randonneur" Rack & Decaleur
I rode this bike for the first time in this configuration on a 106km RUSA Permanent through Ogle and Dekalb counties on Saturday. Maybe a bold decision to launch out on a big ride after making so many big changes, but it worked out perfectly
I have done a conversion before on a 1985 Schwinn Tempo that worked okay, but this bike just feels right with 650B wheels. Full 531DB frameset and super supple tires made for such a smooth ride, I was blown away. At one point on the route, I was riding along the shoulder of a highway with full-width rumble strips across the whole 7 foot shoulder, each section about 5 feet long with serrations cut into the pavement about an inch deep, and I could barely feel them as I rode over. It was really something special to feel.
Super happy with how this build turned out. Currently I'm switching things over to Campagnolo Mirage 8 speed ergos shifting across a Shimano 7 speed rear cassette, but even now it's a super capable, super comfortable long-distance machine.
I'm super excited to stretch its legs over the upcoming randonneuring season.
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