Road bike blues.....Voyageur 11.8
#1
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Road bike blues.....Voyageur 11.8
I would of posted this in the original thread I started, but it wouldn't let me edit the title of the thread to include (Voyageur 11.8) so I made a new one so that there would be a less-likely chance of the people that know something about the 11.8 to miss it...... just in case you are wondering.
Original thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...01#post4720301
Well I figure before I take the plunge and get the Voyageur 11.8, (and possibly find out that it was a bad choice) I should get some advise on the bike. Maybe someone who knows more about this bike could tell me if raising the bar up would work with the frames geometry? Only thing I know of the frame size is that it has a 31'' stand-over height. I will be using it as a commuter, would this be a good bike to get? The badge says "Japan," not sure if that will be enough info to give a date?
Original thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...01#post4720301
Well I figure before I take the plunge and get the Voyageur 11.8, (and possibly find out that it was a bad choice) I should get some advise on the bike. Maybe someone who knows more about this bike could tell me if raising the bar up would work with the frames geometry? Only thing I know of the frame size is that it has a 31'' stand-over height. I will be using it as a commuter, would this be a good bike to get? The badge says "Japan," not sure if that will be enough info to give a date?
Last edited by fish0n; 06-26-07 at 05:17 AM.
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The original stem can't be raised very far. If you need more height you will need another stem like was suggested in your other thread. I did this with a '87 Traveler and it worked very well.
Btw, the 11.8s have downtube shifters. If you can't or don't want to ride hunched over you will probably want to change to stem or bar end shifters. Check out the 11.8 (V'ger) in my sig below. I switched to stem shifters and added safety levers to the brakes so I can ride up on the hoods full time if desired. Also note I have the brake levers positioned higher up on the bars than normal. Those tricks combined helped me achieve a more upright riding position without having to change the stem too.
I think they're very nice bikes, btw. They were second in line only to the Paramount back in the day. Be sure to post photos if you get one.
Btw, the 11.8s have downtube shifters. If you can't or don't want to ride hunched over you will probably want to change to stem or bar end shifters. Check out the 11.8 (V'ger) in my sig below. I switched to stem shifters and added safety levers to the brakes so I can ride up on the hoods full time if desired. Also note I have the brake levers positioned higher up on the bars than normal. Those tricks combined helped me achieve a more upright riding position without having to change the stem too.
I think they're very nice bikes, btw. They were second in line only to the Paramount back in the day. Be sure to post photos if you get one.
Last edited by McDave; 06-26-07 at 07:41 AM.
#3
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Bikes: Canondale LL Bean, Criterium; both MY Schwinn Volare's, Voyageur 11.8; Holdsworth; Bob Jackson; Raleigh Super Course Mk II and Super Course Racing USA; Trek 1500
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My 11.8 is one of my favorites. Rides like a Cadillac!
#4
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The Voyageur 11.8 was only made in 1980, 1981, and 1982, so narrowing down the build date should be easy. Look carefully at the head badge. There should be four small, lightly stamped digits on it. The first three digits are the day of the year (0 through 365), and the last digit is the year. For example, "1231" would mean the build date of the bike was the 123rd day of 1981.
Nitto Technomic stems can be used to give you higher handlebars than stock stems, and they're available with extension lengths from 50mm to 120mm.
Nitto Technomic stems can be used to give you higher handlebars than stock stems, and they're available with extension lengths from 50mm to 120mm.
#5
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Well here's my baby (link below). Its not perfect but it's mine. The thing sure dose fly compared to my Mt. bike I just sold. I should of converted to a roadie long ago, but never again I tell you! I paid $125 for it, worth every penny if you ask me. I was stupid today, was riding it up a slope into the side yard and the wheels lost traction because of some lose dirt and I crashed. The front wheel was perfectly true! and now both wheels are out of true, especially the front. I can either spend $10-15 to get them trued (if they will) or go for new-to-me ones. But how much would that run? I can't understand how the wheels could bend so easily. Should I go for some stronger wheels?
https://mynwbikepics.blogspot.com/
https://mynwbikepics.blogspot.com/
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Nice looking bike!
I would get the wheels trued if they're the original Arayas. The bike shop may want to sell you a new wheelset and if you do go that route, at least keep the old set.
Also, either that stem has already been swapped for a taller one, or it's extended past the max line. If it's extended past the max line it *really* needs to go back down.
I would get the wheels trued if they're the original Arayas. The bike shop may want to sell you a new wheelset and if you do go that route, at least keep the old set.
Also, either that stem has already been swapped for a taller one, or it's extended past the max line. If it's extended past the max line it *really* needs to go back down.
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I just looked at your photos again. The chrome piece on the seat tube is for a frame mount air pump. Not original, looks like the one that came with my Zefal.
The wire piece across the tires is to clear stickers before they have a chance to puncture the tires... supposedly.
The wire piece across the tires is to clear stickers before they have a chance to puncture the tires... supposedly.
#8
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#9
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Araya is the rim brand, the hubs are Shimano. Get them trued. They're probably better than anything the LBS has on the rack. In 27", they probably have dull finish aluminum no names, with joytech hubs if you're lucky. The only other option is to find some good quality 27 inch rims which are still available, and have some new wheels built up. I imagine your wheels are not that bad, as I just saw an experienced bike mechanic turn a nearly taco'd wheel into a straight one.
For the S/N it's probably on the BB, under the pedal area. Neither my Super Le Tour, nor my Voyageur have a manufacture date on the head badge.
For the S/N it's probably on the BB, under the pedal area. Neither my Super Le Tour, nor my Voyageur have a manufacture date on the head badge.
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So many bikes, so little dime.
So many bikes, so little dime.
#10
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There ya go, those look original and like Bikedued said, are probably better than what the LBS will offer. Take some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish to them and they'll look like new. Also, take the axles out, pop the seals off, and clean and repack the ball bearings while you're at it.
BTW... Bonus Points if your bike still has the gold anodized freewheel.
BTW... Bonus Points if your bike still has the gold anodized freewheel.
#12
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Originally Posted by McDave
There ya go, those look original and like Bikedued said, are probably better than what the LBS will offer. Take some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish to them and they'll look like new. Also, take the axles out, pop the seals off, and clean and repack the ball bearings while you're at it.
BTW... Bonus Points if your bike still has the gold anodized freewheel.
BTW... Bonus Points if your bike still has the gold anodized freewheel.
Yep, got the freewheel, but it's not as golden as it once was. Some of the teeth on the cogs look shorter than the others. Do you think it looks like it needs to be replaced?
https://mynwbikepics.blogspot.com/
Should I replace the Bearings? What size of Bearings would I need? Also, what about the BB, and headset bearing sizes? And would anyone happen to know what size cables I would need?
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Originally Posted by fish0n
Yep, got the freewheel, but it's not as golden as it once was. Some of the teeth on the cogs look shorter than the others. Do you think it looks like it needs to be replaced?
Originally Posted by fish0n
Should I replace the Bearings? What size of Bearings would I need? Also, what about the BB, and headset bearing sizes?
Originally Posted by fish0n
And would anyone happen to know what size cables I would need?
Last edited by McDave; 07-01-07 at 04:57 PM.
#14
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Non standard stem!
Please note that the Voyager 11.8 uses a 21.15mm stem. This is an old standard used by Schwinn in the 1970s and 1980s and also used in BMX bikes. You will have a hard time finding a new stem with this size. You can occasionally find one on ebay.
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Originally Posted by McDave
Nothing wrong with that freewheel. The shorter teeth are to aid in shifting. Clean it up with Simple Green or Orange Citrus Solvent and you're good to go.
Oh phewwww, glad to hear it!
Is the the original stem? : https://mynwbikepics.blogspot.com/
Last edited by fish0n; 07-01-07 at 11:55 PM.
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I took the seat stem out and there were a bunch of deep scratches on it, what could this be from? And there was rust on the bottom of it, and on the inside of the frame, AAAAAAAA! What should I do about the rust in the frame?!
https://mynwbikepics.blogspot.com/
https://mynwbikepics.blogspot.com/
Last edited by fish0n; 07-01-07 at 11:42 PM.