Problems adjusting threadless headset - Cane Creek S6
#1
Problems adjusting threadless headset - Cane Creek S6
I've had a Cane Creek S6 (with sealed cartridge bearings) installed on a Nashbar touring frame, and I'm having trouble figuring out the proper preload setting.
How in the world is it properly adjusted? I've read parktool and some threads here. Even with the cap and bolt completely removed, and stem bolts loose, I can't feel any knocking, either by hand or by rocking the bike with the front brake applied. I don't have a torque wrench with low enough settings (read in a thread that 12 - 15 in/lbs is the proper torque). I attempted tightening it to find the point where the steerer would have friction, but I ended up pulling the star nut to the top of the tube. I tapped that back down...need it be replaced?
With sealed cartridge bearings, perhaps it will never be over compressed? Or maybe the star nut was never properly installed?
And since I never felt knocking, what's the best way to gauge the tightness? By riding it? Unfortunately, I won't have the drivetrain assembled for a while until some replacement parts come in.
I thought threadless headsets were easier to adjust than threaded!
How in the world is it properly adjusted? I've read parktool and some threads here. Even with the cap and bolt completely removed, and stem bolts loose, I can't feel any knocking, either by hand or by rocking the bike with the front brake applied. I don't have a torque wrench with low enough settings (read in a thread that 12 - 15 in/lbs is the proper torque). I attempted tightening it to find the point where the steerer would have friction, but I ended up pulling the star nut to the top of the tube. I tapped that back down...need it be replaced?
With sealed cartridge bearings, perhaps it will never be over compressed? Or maybe the star nut was never properly installed?
And since I never felt knocking, what's the best way to gauge the tightness? By riding it? Unfortunately, I won't have the drivetrain assembled for a while until some replacement parts come in.
I thought threadless headsets were easier to adjust than threaded!
#3
Ha!!!!
Another C&V'er comes out of the closet. Modern stuff, eh? Welcome to the dark side, my friend.......
Another C&V'er comes out of the closet. Modern stuff, eh? Welcome to the dark side, my friend.......
__________________
"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
S. J. Perelman
"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
S. J. Perelman
#6
Originally Posted by fender1
Don't be ashamed! I just put a Shimano XT long cage derailleur on my Paramount!
Start the cyber egg throwing now....
Start the cyber egg throwing now....
#7
The only bikes I have with threadless, require them because of the triple tree cruiser forks. They ARE a pain in the butt to assemble and adjust. I feel your pain.,,,,BD
__________________
So many bikes, so little dime.
So many bikes, so little dime.
#8
Just up and down the drive way. No brakes on it yet! I am waiting for a seat stay bridge clip for the rear Fender. I was going to make one but I found a nice one for the Honjo's but it won't be available till the end of July. I got a sliding sks style one coming in the mail as a temp.
#9
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
I could make this all go away JunkYard, for a small fee.







