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3spd conversions
To the guys converting bikes: how do you go about this? Do you use an old hub/rim setup, or do you lace up an old hub onto new rims, or all new? I'm intrigued by the notion of a lightweight steel framed beast, something like a tradition 3spd but slimmed down.
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What da King said: My usual recipe is 3-speed hub, alloy rim, stainless spokes. Main issue to deal with is the change in rear spacing as Sturmey Archer AW hubs are 110-115mm locknut to locknut. You can get a longer axle and use washers/spacers to make up the space you need for a 120 to 126mm rear dropout or you can cold set the rear triangle to fit the SA hub.
Neal |
Do 3spd hubs have to be dished? I've never built a wheel, but maybe that would make a good winter project to learn with. If I don't suceed, I could always bail and have the LBS finish. Anyhow, good info; thanks.
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I bought one of these:
http://www.sturmey-archer.com/hubs_3spd_SRF3.php I'm having wheels built with DT Competition spokes, Sun CR-18 rims, a high flange Lambert front hub and a Simplex front quick release. The shifter is a NOS '70s trigger shifter. It's going on this bike: http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/48...500x500Q85.jpg If you look at the pictue of the hub, you can see there is no need to dish the wheel much. Mine has 118.9 OLD, but you can get it with 126.8. |
Originally Posted by supton
(Post 4901206)
Do 3spd hubs have to be dished?
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Wheel dishing is easy. Start with a straight frame and install the wheel forward and then backward. If the rim's/tire's lateral position does not change relative to the frame, your dish is correct.
I ran a low-end 1962 Bianchi 10-speed (120mm rear axle overlock dimension) as a 3-speed coaster for awhile and don't recall having any issues with rear triangle width. |
Hrm. I don't know if my coworkers have those tools, and I'm not sure yet about dishing out that kind of money (no pun intended) for building my own wheels. I'm sure it's not beyond my abilities, but I tend to be shy about such things until I've seen it done or have walked through it with someone.
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Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 4901031)
What da King said: My usual recipe is 3-speed hub, alloy rim, stainless spokes. Main issue to deal with is the change in rear spacing as Sturmey Archer AW hubs are 110-115mm locknut to locknut. You can get a longer axle and use washers/spacers to make up the space you need for a 120 to 126mm rear dropout or you can cold set the rear triangle to fit the SA hub.
Neal |
I laced the hub into the original steel rims to see how it would work, then I bought some Nashbar alloy rims when they were on sale. The alloy rims made the bike feel much lighter.
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I built an old Sekine SHC into a SA AW 3 speed recently. I wanted a cruiser type bike with the speed and agility of a beater roadie. I simply laced the hub into a new rim - didn't change the axle or anything (standard 117mm O.L.D.), but did add a small spacer to the left side to help offset the resulting dish and to make the O.L.D. 120mm, which is what I squashed the frame down to (was 126mm). It works well, but the left side has only JUST enough axle protruding past the dropout. Give it a go - 3 speed roadies are fun!
http://a605.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...4361a0547c.jpg http://a283.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...630dcf2532.jpg |
I just found a NOS Sturmey-Archer aluminum 5 speed with all of the hardware, including the double downtube shifters. I'm tempted to put my new three speed hub on eBay.
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Raleigh pattern rim, regular 3 speed hub, but modern stainless spokes. I enjoy not having to worry about de-rusting spokes one by one. They look nice, have a chrome shine, and are nice and strong. They really don't stick out as modern on the bike when you look at it. They're not special or anything- just nice chrome spokes that match the rims.
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Here's how the new SA 3 speed fits my Carlton with 120mm spacing. There is enough excess axle that you could space it out to at least 126mm, maybe even 130mm. The chainline is going to be dead on.
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/67...500x500Q85.jpg |
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