3spd conversions
#1
Thread Starter
Cries on hills
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,088
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From: Central NH
Bikes: 2007 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1969 Raleigh Sprite 5
3spd conversions
To the guys converting bikes: how do you go about this? Do you use an old hub/rim setup, or do you lace up an old hub onto new rims, or all new? I'm intrigued by the notion of a lightweight steel framed beast, something like a tradition 3spd but slimmed down.
#3
Senior Member



Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 18,758
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What da King said: My usual recipe is 3-speed hub, alloy rim, stainless spokes. Main issue to deal with is the change in rear spacing as Sturmey Archer AW hubs are 110-115mm locknut to locknut. You can get a longer axle and use washers/spacers to make up the space you need for a 120 to 126mm rear dropout or you can cold set the rear triangle to fit the SA hub.
Neal
Neal
#4
Thread Starter
Cries on hills
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
From: Central NH
Bikes: 2007 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1969 Raleigh Sprite 5
Do 3spd hubs have to be dished? I've never built a wheel, but maybe that would make a good winter project to learn with. If I don't suceed, I could always bail and have the LBS finish. Anyhow, good info; thanks.
#5
I bought one of these:
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/hubs_3spd_SRF3.php
I'm having wheels built with DT Competition spokes, Sun CR-18 rims, a high flange Lambert front hub and a Simplex front quick release. The shifter is a NOS '70s trigger shifter. It's going on this bike:

If you look at the pictue of the hub, you can see there is no need to dish the wheel much. Mine has 118.9 OLD, but you can get it with 126.8.
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/hubs_3spd_SRF3.php
I'm having wheels built with DT Competition spokes, Sun CR-18 rims, a high flange Lambert front hub and a Simplex front quick release. The shifter is a NOS '70s trigger shifter. It's going on this bike:
If you look at the pictue of the hub, you can see there is no need to dish the wheel much. Mine has 118.9 OLD, but you can get it with 126.8.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 07-21-07 at 05:43 PM.
#7
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,397
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Wheel dishing is easy. Start with a straight frame and install the wheel forward and then backward. If the rim's/tire's lateral position does not change relative to the frame, your dish is correct.
I ran a low-end 1962 Bianchi 10-speed (120mm rear axle overlock dimension) as a 3-speed coaster for awhile and don't recall having any issues with rear triangle width.
I ran a low-end 1962 Bianchi 10-speed (120mm rear axle overlock dimension) as a 3-speed coaster for awhile and don't recall having any issues with rear triangle width.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#8
Thread Starter
Cries on hills
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
From: Central NH
Bikes: 2007 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1969 Raleigh Sprite 5
Hrm. I don't know if my coworkers have those tools, and I'm not sure yet about dishing out that kind of money (no pun intended) for building my own wheels. I'm sure it's not beyond my abilities, but I tend to be shy about such things until I've seen it done or have walked through it with someone.
#9
What da King said: My usual recipe is 3-speed hub, alloy rim, stainless spokes. Main issue to deal with is the change in rear spacing as Sturmey Archer AW hubs are 110-115mm locknut to locknut. You can get a longer axle and use washers/spacers to make up the space you need for a 120 to 126mm rear dropout or you can cold set the rear triangle to fit the SA hub.
Neal
Neal
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,035
Likes: 2,116
From: NW Ohio
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-1977 Univega Grand Rally, S LTD, 1973 Sears Free Spirit 531, 197? FW Evans
I laced the hub into the original steel rims to see how it would work, then I bought some Nashbar alloy rims when they were on sale. The alloy rims made the bike feel much lighter.
#11
Who cares, just ride it!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 989
Likes: 5
From: Melbourne
Bikes: 1992ish Davidson Impulse, 1981 Apollo Gran Sport SS, 2006 Salsa Las Cruces, 2010 Soma Double Cross
I built an old Sekine SHC into a SA AW 3 speed recently. I wanted a cruiser type bike with the speed and agility of a beater roadie. I simply laced the hub into a new rim - didn't change the axle or anything (standard 117mm O.L.D.), but did add a small spacer to the left side to help offset the resulting dish and to make the O.L.D. 120mm, which is what I squashed the frame down to (was 126mm). It works well, but the left side has only JUST enough axle protruding past the dropout. Give it a go - 3 speed roadies are fun!


Last edited by Antipodes; 07-21-07 at 08:52 PM.
#13
Sturmey Archer Hub


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,671
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From: New England
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Raleigh pattern rim, regular 3 speed hub, but modern stainless spokes. I enjoy not having to worry about de-rusting spokes one by one. They look nice, have a chrome shine, and are nice and strong. They really don't stick out as modern on the bike when you look at it. They're not special or anything- just nice chrome spokes that match the rims.
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#14





