top506

There's no 1:1 correspondence across product lines, but the 90 would be more like a Pro than a B17. Mount it on whatever works for you.
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Danddd

I have a Brooks B17 and Swift. I like both. This year I bought a Selle AnAtomica saddle (https://www.selleanatomica.com/) for my Specialized Sequoia that I use on the gravel trails in the western Chicago suburbs. I still don't know if I like it or not. It seems to need a lot of adjusting to get it right. Plus it feels so different from the Brooks. More of a hammock effect. But I have to say it is comfortable.

There's been some debates on the AnAtomica on the forums.

Grand Bois

Here's a really nice looking Ideale:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ADME:B:SS:US:1

I'm looking for an Ideale seat clamp. PM me if you have one to sell or trade. No rust!

I just won a like new '70s Brooks Pro on eBay. The seller admits that it's hard as brick, but it will look grat on my PX10! I'll probably be asking for advice on how to soften it.

NormanF

I'm partial to the Brooks Conquest. I like sprung saddles. My touring bike has the B-67 installed. The weight is unimportant - the comfort is incredible right out of the box.

NormanF

I wish I could find one for my Peugeot. A Brooks though, is perfectly appropriate for the restoration of a French bicycle.

Grand Bois

The Brooks Pro I just bought is correct for a '73 PX10. Mine's a '74, but I always hated the Ideale 2001 that it came with when I bought it new. It's a leather covered plastic saddle.

lotek 

I've been looking for an unsprung (single rail) Lepper saddle for
a few years now, they are few and far between. Since they're dutch it
only makes sense that I have at least one on my dutch collection, and
Sheldon's opinion of them is pretty high (and who am I to argue with Sheldon?).

Marty

digitalbicycle

Bump.

Howzabout some advice on how to best break in a new leather saddle? I've done a little looking in other places on the internet but there doesn't seem to be a consensus on the "one best way" (as if there is such a thing).

lotek 

I've posted this before, but here it is again.
This is a collecton of different responses to the same question from a number
of CR list members, BF members and Serotta owners forum members:

Break-in is actually an always evolving thing with Brooks saddles, they seem to always be changing in an organic manner. I personally recommend a Brooks saddle be used often, never on a rarely used bike. They'll sort of firm up and harden w/o regular usage, essentially mitigating your previous break-in work. Yes, even with proper Proofide treatments, once a year and nothing more, thank you very much. The excepetion is if soaked in downpour; towel dry to touch immediately after ride, allow to dry naturally indoors, never usgae a hair dryer or other means to expedite drying, once completely dried, a very light Proofide application will restore oils and soft texture to leather

Brooks saddle care is a piece of cake, really. When new, apply a generous -- not heavy but enough to really soak in -- amount of Proofide to entire underside of saddle. I like to place saddle in sun for 30 minutes or so prior to application such that wax is really drawn into pores. Always apply Proofide with bare fingers, warmth of hand will help melt wax. The importance of this underside application is paramount, it will help with break-in but primarily will prevent any future mildew/mold issues from destroying your saddle. You should never need to apply another underside coating of Proofide to your saddle in its life. The topside will need a very light initial coating, allow 30 minutes to penetrate and dry, buff with soft terry loop towel, re-apply a 2nd very light coating, allow to dry overnight, buff with towel. After 2 weeks of usage, a 3rd very light coat of Proofide to seating surface should be applied, dry overnight, buff with towel. That's it for a full year. The excepetion is if soaked in downpour; towel dry to touch immediately after ride, allow to dry naturally indoors, never use a hair dryer or other means to expedite drying, once completely dried, a very light Proofide application will restore oils and soft texture to leather. An annual single light coating to seating surface, dry overnight and buff with towel should be only maintainence ever required of a Brooks saddle. I have rarely needed to use tensioning wrench, even when saddle has been repeatedly soaked, yes I use a Brooks on my winter/wet weather bike and I've never used a saddle bonnet. I would bet I get 20k miles between ever retensioning the saddle.

Breaking in Brooks saddles is a bit misunderstood in my experience. The saddle should be relatively comfortable for a 1-2 hour ride fresh out of box. If not, adjust saddle tilt. If still not reasonably comfortable, ie 'hot spots' or specific pressure areas are felt, get a different saddle. For my backside, the Swift and Pro are ill suited and quite uncomfortable. The Pro, if it does fit you, will take longest break-in. The leather is apparently heaviest on Pro model. You can witness this by attempting to push on sit area of Pro saddle versus any other Brooks, it is noticably stiffer. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, just expect longer break-in period before leather conforms to sitbones. Loosening tension 1/2 turn as suggested by Doug is recommended. Once you find correct Brooks saddle it will take 300-1000 miles to break-in saddle, after which it will be noticably more comfortable. 12-15 hours in saddle should be trouble-free, at least as concerns saddle related issues.

After choosing correct saddle, try B17 if Pro does not fit, treat saddle with Brooks Proofide only. This is critical step for longterm saddle care. Initial treatment consists of application to entire underside of leather. Use fingers only, no gloves and room temp should be 70*F or higher. The heat from your fingers will allow Proofide to properly penetrate hide. The undersaddle treatment is 1-time only to prevent drying or rotting. The top side application should be very thin, being sure to massage Proofide into saddle. 1 hour after application, use clean, dry, lint-free cotton rag to wipe down saddle top only, do not worry about underside again. Allow to dry for 12 hours, before wiping down saddle again with clean, dry cloth. Wiping back to frontb will help raise grain making a less slippery surface. Now get out and ride. Saddle will feel a bit dry in 2-3 weeks of riding, particularly in warmer weather. You should reapply to topside only, same method as previous. After said 2nd application, you should not repeat Proofide for 1 year. A light application performed annually, checking saddle tension nut at same time, will provide MANY years of comfortable riding support.

Fore-aft fitment of Brooks is difficult. As Doug noted, the Brooks rails offer little room for adjustment. The largest setback I have seen to date on currently available, good quality post is Ritchey Pro, which is a beautiful 1-piece forging, 2-bolt design. It is unfortunately available in black only, easily remedied with about 1-hour of work with oven cleaner and buffing wheel/rouge. The Ritchey offers approx. 10mm more setback than current Campy posts, yes I have both.

I use a Swift and B17s, these being my two favorite Brooks saddles. If the saddle is really _perfect_ for your butt then there is virtually no break in period: it is comfortable from the get-go. For goodness's sake dont' soak the thing in neet's foot oil or anything of the sort. (What the heck is a neet?, btw...) The key to the Brooks fit is to make sure that the rear of the saddle is level. This effectively a slight rise on the nose. The idea is to sit _on_ the saddle with the sit bones on the key points of rear contact. Some Brooks saddles just don't work for me. I'm not a Pro guy. But I use the Swift on two bikes and love it. I like it so much for pure comfort that I use it on my RB-2 which is really just my rollers bike. I consider rollers sort of a torture that makes me feel like I am doing something during the winter when I am far too absent of character and JohnStamstad-ness that I will not ride outside. Is the Swift worth it? Sure is. If it ends up being "not for you" as can happen with any saddle, you'll find lots of buyers. Also, you need to give it a chance. One ride might not do it. You need about 100 miles and if it's not for you, you'll know it, and if it is, you'll be in heaven.

Saddle choice and position is strictly a personal fit issue. I too have heard the nose up theory, although not exclusively to Brooks. I position all saddles almost identically; forward nose level with ground. Saddle tilt is really a subjective issue based upon rider anatomy and position on bike. As I recall, Doug positions most of his bikes with saddle and bar elevation relative to level ground, as very similar, say within 1/2". Please correct me if I assumed wrong. I tend to have a bit more drop. My Legend is roughly 1 1/2" drop to bar, my trainer/'cross bike is approx 1" drop. I also like to stretch out upper body over bike thus a nose up position does not work for me. I would suggest starting at a nuetral position, ie. nose level, and make minor adjustments as warranted to suit individual comfort levels.


Marty

digitalbicycle

Thanks Lotek.

bikerosity57

Brooks is the only way to go. There is an american company that makes anatomic leather saddles that are quite nice: selle anatomica. You can look them up on the internet.
I modified a Brooks B-17 into an anatomic saddle several year ago, and I have been very happy indeed. I imagine you would be very happy with a Brooks saddle.
Does anyone know what happened to Lepper saddles from Holland? I had one, and it was as nice as a Brooks, I really liked it, but I can't find them anymore.

WilliamK1974

This thread has me curious about these saddles. It will be awhile before I can justify replacing my VeloPlush, though.

My bike is considered a road bike, but isn't hardcore. I almost never ride in the drops.

I'm a 235lb Clyde that wears a size 40 waist. Considering my bike and my size, would a B17 be a good choice when the time comes?

Thank you,
-Bill

stokessd

Yes, a B17 is a great saddle, and if you are unsure which to try, it's the one to reach for. I also like the Champion flyer which is a B17 on springs.

The wife and I just returned from Ireland where we spent 8 days with 4-5 hours a day in the saddles. My wife took a Champion Flyer S, and I took a Team pro. We were both very happy with them, but the roads were rough enough that I was wishing to have a sprung saddle at times. Brooks saddles are really the key to both mine and my wife's cycling happiness. Nothing comes close, and we've been through a bunch of plastic saddles (mostly her, I've been a Brooks fan since the early 80's)

Wallingford Bike has a 6 month return policy, it's hard to go wrong with that. I've gotten 4 Brooks saddles from them recently and They are great.

Not light, not carbon fiber, not trendy, just the real deal...

Sheldon

bbattle

Sit on it. Often.

mattface 

I have a B17 Champion Special, and a Pro. The B17 seemed to take a long time to break in. The Pro, while it was hard as a rock was far more comfortable. Even on my first 40 mile long ride on it (3 days after I got it) it was less obtrusive than the B17 is after more than a year of riding. I tend to prefer narrower saddles, and have my bars relatively low, but nothing extreme, so I guess the pro is a more appropriate saddle for me. I guess it's all a matter of what fits your size and riding style best.

lotek 

Lepper is still around, but very difficult to find here in the states, and even in
the Nethelands the single rail, unsprung b17 type saddle is difficult to find. I know
I've been looking for one all I find are sprung saddles (ala champion flyer and B72).

Marty

John E

My first Bianchi, a 1962 model, came with a Bianchi-labeled saddle, presumably a rebrand, but I have no idea who actually made it. The saddle served me well for more than a decade, but for real longevity in a tensioned leather saddle, it is tough to beat my Brooks Pro.