Travelightly

I've got a 20 yr old John Howard Signature Model racing bike, Dave Moulton frameset (Columbus S.L. Tubing), all Campy (w/ upgrades from the stock bike) and with a new Super Record brakeset. Bike's been well cared for. Actually, little used. Health problems shortly after I bought it. Never wanted to sell it though. I'm willing to sell it now, but don't have any idea how to price it. I paid over $900, 20 years ago, and bought the Super Record brakes for $250-350(?) shortly after I bought the bike. The brakes are still in the original box. Never spilled the bike. Fair weather road bike use. I don't want to give it away. Don't want to price it where people in the know would be saying I'm a nutter to price it so high, either. Can anyone recommend what might be a fair price? Thanks.

bbattle

I just bought this frame off eBay for $175. Does that help?



Info. on John Howard frames. Only made in 1983-1984.
https://www.prodigalchild.net/Bicycle2.htm

Here's a Fuso bike on eBay. watch its price to help you price the JH.

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=012

Travelightly

https://www.prodigalchild.net/Bicycle.htm
If you haven't seen this site it should be a pleasant surprise.
That Fuso sure is a nice looking bike.

Travelightly

Thanks for the URL for Dave Moulton's site.
(sheepish grin)

CV-6 

If you did not know already, yours is a Tesch built Howard.

solveg

That was a great site. I was surprised he " used three basic measurements; overall height, inside leg and shoe size". What importance does the shoe size have?

Dr.Deltron

Probably has to do with overlap of the toe & front wheel.

apw55

"The exception to this two-thirds inseam rule is the rider with a long body and short legs. It is as if this body was designed as a very tall person, then the heel got turned further up the leg, making shorter legs and longer feet. The body and arms are as a taller person; so this rider needs a frame more suited to his overall height rather than his inseam measurement. The foot is a extension of the leg when riding a bicycle, because the toe points downward at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Therefore this rider needs to set the saddle higher to allow for their longer foot."

The above is the third full paragraph from Dave Moulton’s page on frame sizing.

Regards,
Alan

bbattle

Yes, thanks. Bob Hufford told me, then I got an e-mail from Dave Moulton this morning. He gave me info. on the differences between the DT frames and his. He asked me for pictures of the frame; he may write about it in his blog.

The Dave Moulton frames are worth more than the Dave Tesch ones.

If you're interested, pics of my frame are HERE

CV-6 

I had asked Dave about the frame while the auction was open. The pic was so bad, I wondered if it actually was a JH. Saw your pics. Glad someone who cares got it. You might get some argument from some as to the relative value of Moulton v. Tesch JH frames. Tesch turned out to be a master builder in his own right.

How are you going to build it....(as I hijack the thread)

CardiacKid

Here is a thread started by Mr. Moulton on his theory of proper fit. https://bikeforums.net/showthread.php...ght=proper+fit

Picchio Special

I have that same Tesch-Howard frame with the purple-silver fade. Those were painted by Brian Baylis, BTW, another master. Tesch was a brilliant brass brazer with a penchant for aggressive geometry in his own designs. Mine has a little "Built by David Tesch" decal on one chainstay. I read recently that the frames Tesch built for Howard were actually quite similar to those he was producing under his own name at the time (the "101"), but with different geometry and castings.

bbattle

Bob gave me Glenn Benveniste's e-mail address and Glenn says he, not Brian, painted the DT frames but he leaves open the possibility that Brian painted some.

"If it's a Tesch, it's more likely I painted them then Brian. Although we did several batches of them and I don't remember whether I painted them all or not. Standard Imron silver metallic with two coats of clear over it. Just some silver touchup that gets close, followed by some clear. Make sure the silver dries completely before the clear. It's a fairly standard, but nice paint job with buried decals. You might ask Brian for better information as he is much more proficient at touch ups than am I."


The paint job is in good enough shape to just touch-up some spots.

As for building the frame up, I'm rather new at this and not sure how to proceed. Mid-80's Campy, new gruppo and cold-setting the dropouts, or conversion to fixed gear.

And while we're off-topic, "Operation Death Trap" is progressing nicely.

Picchio Special

Interesing info - thanks. You would think Glenn would know, right? On the other hand, here's a post directly from Baylis from the CR archives:

"I painted the Tesch built frames that had John Howard
decals on them. They are silver metallic base color with a candy apple
fade on the front of the bike in red, blue, purple, and one other color
I can't recall. I don't believe there were a whole lot of these frames
made.

Brian Baylis
La Mesa, CA"

I also saw Brian a little over a year ago and mentioned I had one of the Tesch-Howard frames he had painted. I don't recall that he did anything to disabuse me of the notion that he had. Sounds like maybe Glenn and Brian both painted some of those bikes.

LawBoy01

Please send me pictures and an offer if the bike is available, as long as it's a 56-58 cm.

rmfnla

Interesting site.

Dave made some nice frames; hope he can get that comma usage under control.