View Poll Results: To polish or not to polish....
Voters: 79. You may not vote on this poll
Shine or patina?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 135
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
Bikes: 1970 Raleigh Record (daily rider), 1967 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Motobecane Mirage (commuter)
Shine or patina?
Which do you prefer on classic bikes -- shiny, highly-polished aluminium, or the dull patina acquired from decades of use?
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
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From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
voted shine, but it really depends on the bike.
If we're talking components only then I have no qualms about cleaning
and polishing up the bike.
Patina on nice campy hubs looks like road dirt to me.
besides I think a well maintained, clean component just works better.
Marty
If we're talking components only then I have no qualms about cleaning
and polishing up the bike.
Patina on nice campy hubs looks like road dirt to me.
besides I think a well maintained, clean component just works better.
Marty
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#3
You need a both category. I will clean a part and use Mothers on it. I won't buff out scratches or those tiny tiny black pits, but the Mothers does get rid of that dull gray finish.
Last edited by iab; 08-30-07 at 01:27 PM.
#4
K2ProFlex baby!
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,134
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From: My response would have been something along the lines of: "Does your bike have computer controlled suspension? Then shut your piehole, this baby is from the future!"
Bikes: to many to list
I prefere the patina look, it adds more to the "Ooooohs and Aaaaahs" one gets from the masses while riding a vintage bike
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
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From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
For me it's not a question of Restoration vs Preservation for this specific poll/thread.
I think it's more a question of cleaning up the bike, removing it's hard won road grime
and oxidation (i.e. see the Zeus hub that another poster found). For me again cleaning
up is part of the preservation.
If we are talking paint here, thats a completely different story and I usually opt for preserve
the original finish.
To quote myself (quoting someone else) "It's only original once", but it can be clean
many times and still be original..
good thread.
marty
I think it's more a question of cleaning up the bike, removing it's hard won road grime
and oxidation (i.e. see the Zeus hub that another poster found). For me again cleaning
up is part of the preservation.
If we are talking paint here, thats a completely different story and I usually opt for preserve
the original finish.
To quote myself (quoting someone else) "It's only original once", but it can be clean
many times and still be original..
good thread.
marty
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#7
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,754
Likes: 17
Dirt is not patina. As far as fine racing bikes are concearned, proper maintenance should be an ongoing part of the bikes life.
To me this includes cleaning and polishing parts, and replacing tatty bar tape and cables,etc. when needed. I have no problem with a frame showing scratches, faded paint, torn decals, etc. But I'm still going to make sure that frame is free from grime and waxed. I have no problem with alloy cranks showing strap marks and chain scratches, or levers showing a bit of road-rash. But I'm still going to clean and polish those parts, scratches and all. In a nutshell all parts should be made to look as good as they can without altering (re-finishing).
This way a 30-40-50 year old bikes looks its' age but you know everything is tuned, adjusted, safe, quiet, and rideable.
Besides I can't work on a dirty bike. If I'm re-packing hubs, those shells get cleaned inside and out. It might be important to leave oxidation on a Van Erps lamp base not a fine bicycle.
To me this includes cleaning and polishing parts, and replacing tatty bar tape and cables,etc. when needed. I have no problem with a frame showing scratches, faded paint, torn decals, etc. But I'm still going to make sure that frame is free from grime and waxed. I have no problem with alloy cranks showing strap marks and chain scratches, or levers showing a bit of road-rash. But I'm still going to clean and polish those parts, scratches and all. In a nutshell all parts should be made to look as good as they can without altering (re-finishing).
This way a 30-40-50 year old bikes looks its' age but you know everything is tuned, adjusted, safe, quiet, and rideable.
Besides I can't work on a dirty bike. If I'm re-packing hubs, those shells get cleaned inside and out. It might be important to leave oxidation on a Van Erps lamp base not a fine bicycle.
#8
www.theheadbadge.com



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#9
Bike Junkie
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 9,625
Likes: 40
From: South of Raleigh, North of New Hill, East of Harris Lake, NC
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Specialized Roubaix, Giant OCR-C, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR, Stumpjumper Comp, 88 & 92Nishiki Ariel, 87 Centurion Ironman, 92 Paramount, 84 Nishiki Medalist
#12
I'm in the 'tweener camp, clean but with lustrous patina. Vintage parts have earned the slight dulling around that shiny spot where your thumb hits on the shifter or your fingers grip the levers. There's no need to shine the crap out of everything.
Think about it, which looks like it belongs on a bike that is loved and ridden... a new out of the box Honey Brooks or one that seen a couple 10,000 miles complete with divots and sweat stains?
To me nothing says I'm loved like the latter.
Think about it, which looks like it belongs on a bike that is loved and ridden... a new out of the box Honey Brooks or one that seen a couple 10,000 miles complete with divots and sweat stains?
To me nothing says I'm loved like the latter.
#14
Most aluminum alloy parts on bikes are clear anodized, which gives them a satin, not mirror finish. This coating is a lot harder than bare aluminum and will not polish up any shinier unless you power buff it long and hard. After that you will have to polish it over and over again periodically if you want to keep that mirror finish. Your choice; leave it alone or polish it forever. The only time I would polish aluminum is if it was never anodized or is really corroded and scratched up.
#15
I saw a collection of over 60 mostly 70s and 80s VLWs yesterday. Including two bike built for roger de vlaminck, with pantographed RdV in the fork crown. The owner is a machinist and polished most of his cranks including considerable rounding in some cases and milling out the flutes and cutting out the shift levers. Everything is accented mostly in yellow by his hand. Many of the bike are immaculate, all get ridden and all have look pedals (wonder where he keeps all those originals?). Needless to say I vote polish. I was truly swayed by the beauty and amount of work he put into these machines. I have wondered if I should build corky with "patina" or strip and polish the very beat up cranks and scratched up levers, But now I know what I have to do. Polish polish Polish, relace wheels (to polish the hubs)... polish the rims, new decals... full refurbish. Sure if you find the bike in good condition with some patina, by all means clean it and ride it. But for a restoration, polish away.
__________________
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
#16
Can we get some visuals in here? I *think* that I like patina but I need an example of exactly how far along this patina is because I keep thinking of grime on a bike, which would not be a good thing.
No pics of this guy's collection cyclotoine?
No pics of this guy's collection cyclotoine?
#17
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Bikes: 1974 Cinelli Super Corsa, 2005 Jamis Quest, 2002 Trek 850
Shiny Patina
Here is a rough shot of my unrestored ~1974 Cinelli SC. Still riding like a dream. Has a few scratches and scrapes, but what the heck ,what you expect after 35 years of use
#18
He was riding at late 70s RdV colnago yesterday, beautiful...
He had a 1984 Olympic Battaglin... full 50th anniversary group (he had another full 50th).
A 70s cinelli track bike in amaing shape with chromed alloy old logo 1R and criterium bars and chromed campy seatpost.
To name a few....
I'd like to get to know him better to get some help polishing my parts.
__________________
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
#19
I think C&V regular nlerner has a few examples of nicely patinated bicycles. It appears he cleans the bikes, but doesn't always polish all the bits. If I'm wrong, Neal, I apologize!
https://web.mit.edu/nlerner/www/lernerbikes.html
https://web.mit.edu/nlerner/www/lernerbikes.html
Last edited by JunkYardBike; 08-30-07 at 11:23 PM.
#20
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 135
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
Bikes: 1970 Raleigh Record (daily rider), 1967 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Motobecane Mirage (commuter)
When I asked the question, it was more philosophical rather than practical, but here's the sort of patina I had in mind. Clean, not dirty, but the finish is "untouched"....
#21
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
Likes: 12
From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
Ok, here's an example of my ideas on this (my 1974 RIH).
the hubs were cleaned and repacked, there is some
pitting evident (patina). I did not buff off the anodizing and polish to
a high gloss shine.
note difference between chrome dropout and hub.

Also note the rubber QR cover, it looks filthy but what you see is that the
rubber is permanently stained, I have no clue as to how to clean this without
destroying the part. As this is original to the bike (as delivered to me) this
is patina that I can live with.
Marty
the hubs were cleaned and repacked, there is some
pitting evident (patina). I did not buff off the anodizing and polish to
a high gloss shine.
note difference between chrome dropout and hub.

Also note the rubber QR cover, it looks filthy but what you see is that the
rubber is permanently stained, I have no clue as to how to clean this without
destroying the part. As this is original to the bike (as delivered to me) this
is patina that I can live with.
Marty
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#24
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,394
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
voted shine, but it really depends on the bike.
If we're talking components only then I have no qualms about cleaning
and polishing up the bike.
Patina on nice campy hubs looks like road dirt to me.
besides I think a well maintained, clean component just works better.
Marty
If we're talking components only then I have no qualms about cleaning
and polishing up the bike.
Patina on nice campy hubs looks like road dirt to me.
besides I think a well maintained, clean component just works better.
Marty
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 664
Likes: 1
From: Belgium
Bikes: ca.1975 Gitane Interclub - 90's Colnago Master Competition- ca.'84 Merckx Corsa - '77 Groene Leeuw - ca. '78 Guerciotti - ca.1984 L'Express - 1974 Gitane 'Super Olympic' - Peugeot 1981 PXN10 - 1975 Peugeot PR10 -1974 Norta -1974 Peugeot PX10 LE
Love shiny, but will settle for patina-look once I get the message that hours of buffing didn't make much difference - then I tell everyone it's supposed to look like that!



















