RobbieTunes

I'd say any Shimano 10-sp FD/RD would work, and Sheldon Brown shows how to make a 9-sp DA RD work, also, I think. I"m using 5600 105's, the single-pivot 105 calipers w/levers, and a 9-sp 105 crankset. Should end up a 20-lb Ironman with 2x10, 11-21 rear on 53/39 front. I haven't decided on CF fork or not. Perfect century bike for me, and it frees up a 600 STI group.

Ex Pres 

You're right. This one came from a good ol' c'82 Devilbiss. Decals by way of JRRestore, with the much appreciated assistance of Charles Wahl.

innevets

Updated with newer bits. Orange glow is from the southern california wildfires.

CitizenChain

How about this baby.
I am using the original 7spd Phils on Victorys.
I upgraded the stem (Mutant) bars (Sycip Woinderbars) and shifters (Sram X-7's) It shifts Click Click Click.

Of course the paint too.

Bikedued

I'm not sure what it is, but something about that bike hits me just right! I love it!,,,,BD

stussy2k

I want to possibly convert a scwinn le tour that i'm going to purchase, except it's made for 27' wheels. Will using long reach calipers be a problem with sti?

CV-6 

Merckx Corsa with 9 Speed DA. Taken during one of my stays in Phoenix this year. Frame is slated for refinish with either Azzuro Cobalto colors or 7/11 Team. The rims are bluish, so I am leaning towards the former. It has since received Ultegra front and rear derailleurs, Ultegra triple crank, and eventually will lose the downtube shifters. Just need an Ultegra triple front lever.

Benzosol

I recently outfitted this NOS MASI Grand Criterium with Sram Force... I know there will be the purist out there that freak at the thought of this. But the ride of this frame with the modern components is about the most convincing statement of how a great italian lightweight will do with the tech available today in drivetrains. This bike performs on every level along with the comfort of steel....

Benjamin

Chombi

It's funny that after being so glad back in the mid 80's to finally get a bike that had genuine DT shifters with real brazed-on shifter bosses, technology dealt me a cruel blow a few years later by going to a shifter system that uses DT cable stops.....just like the Peugeot PH10 I had that had those terrible ratcheting stem shifters....groan....

Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV

longbeachgary

What year is that bike? Looks like a carbon fork so I'm thinking it may be a newer one.

longbeachgary

beautiful.

RobbieTunes

Mentioned before, done, even if the pic isn't too hot. 1989 Centurion.






2x10sp Dura Ace DT shifters, 7800 SL's.
105 single pivot calipers and levers, circa 1988 or so. Model 1055 or something like that..
105 5500 crank set, was black, but EZ-Off handled that. Stronglight big ring, waiting a black one...
105 5600 FD and RD, 105 5600 11-21 cassette.
Shifters $50
FD and RD $65 (what it took to replace them on another bike with black 5500)
Crankset $20
BB $25 (octalink)
brakeset $20
cassette $50
Entire 10-sp group, $230.

Shifts are light, crisp, even with the 1-tooth jumps on that cassette.

With the upgrade, I have about $430 in the bike, less the value of the 600 STI group that was on it.
I don't think that's too bad for a 2x10 bike, about 22.2 pounds. I was shooting for 21 lbs, but the wheelset is a little heavy.
Great century bike.

Jaeger

Beautiful bike and great job on the build. I think I'd prefer bars with a slightly shallower drop, though. Are you comfortable in the drops on that bike?

yellowjeep

I think they are probably exaggerated somewhat by the use of a wide angle lens

Jaeger

Ah, could be.

gomango

My 1991 Eddy Merckx TSX Century. We did the St. Paul Bike Classic today. What a turn out!




And a pic from the side.

mojopt

This is a mid 80's Allentown Ross. I didn't want to put the money into this one but it fits like an old shoe. There is a mix of 105 , Ultegra, and Dura-Ace. The CF fork and wheels have been the best upgrade yet. The Tektro brakes do a great job and the Italian mirror is steady as you can get.

I probably could buy a decent "new" LBS bike for what I have in this one but then again when you build one it is yours for sure... kind of like a hot rod.

It actually rides very well. This is my daily rider.

Best regards,

Mike

Benzosol

Gary,
The frame is from "86" when they took that factory back to italy and the son started making frames there is what I was told. The accuracy of this is has not been confirmed by me.. I believe the frame to be made of SLX or equivalent and the fork is a carbon EC90 that I put on it. The idea for this bike was to try to take the best of the 80's era and mix it with new components... Its very light as it is weighing approximately 18ish pounds. I weighed it with a scale at home.. I plan on taking it to the LBS to confirm.

Benjamin

RobbieTunes

So far. Updated pics show the bar relationship better than what you saw before.

Thanks for the comments. Sometimes, the pics make the bike look better. In this case, not.

Bikedued

My PH10 has friction DT shifters? Was yours a P-8 maybe?,,,,BD

roccobike

Well, I finally completed another vintage frame with STIs. I wanted to use the ALEX X320 wheelset I picked up with a vintage bike. Problem, they looked out of place with the Centurions and the Nishiki International that I have. They might have worked with the Fuji, but I used one of the wheels on this Nishiki Prestige as a temporary wheel to keep the bike upright, off the stand, took one look and said Wow, I like it. It's got that "Darth Vader" dark look, sort of a bad boy bike. I replaced both wheels using the Alex set. I replaced the Suntour CycloneII rear dr, downtube shifters and DiaCompe aero levers with the Shimano 600 tricolor brake/shifters and rear derailer. The single pivot brakes have been replaced with dual pivot Tektros. I've used the bike on a few club rides and recently used it on the second day 50 mile ride of an MS150. It's a little stiffer than my CF bike, but smoother than the aluminum bikes I've got. It's fast enough as I had no trouble maintaining a 19 MPH pull against a stiff wind. For whatever reason, this bike actually feels better (faster) in high wind, with the deep V rims than the Giant CF bike does with Xero light wheels. Go figure.
It got it's share of attention at the MS150 having used it only one day. One of the bike mechanics at a rest stop put his tools down and immediatley came over with a "Wow, a Nishiki Prestige, upgraded with brake/shifters, cool!"
Hope you like it as much as I do. BTW, I've added a pic of the bike before the changes to the attachments.

LivewireRacing

Hey all. I've a 1984 Champion tubing Schwinn Tempo that I'm converting. The Shimano down-tube cable stop adjusters just aren't the right size. My braze on bosses have a large round area where they attach to the down tube and a rectangular piece which extends out from that, where the friction screw, screws.
I'll attach a pic, though blurry, which might give you all a better clue. I know I could attach a crimp type cable stop but I'd rather not, given the braze ons.

BTW, this is the best thread I've ever seen on this forum. Some of the bikes are just amazing.

Regards,

Paul

johnknappcc

It's been a long time in the works to join in on this thread, but here is my submission:

A 1986 Schwinn Voyageur touring bike (owned it since I was a kid, 18 years). Originally a 3/5 15 speed, with 27" wheels, now a 2/10 20 speed with 700C's. Sporting full Ultegra, minus the cranks, which are R700's.









And, before I did any work. I beat this bike up for a long time:



And the rest of pics . . . https://gallery.a-symmetric.com

spin4130

Here is my Pogliaghi. 9x2 105sti

Bikedued

If you're handy with a dremel tool, you can cut out the slot need for that tab in front. You also need a different screw, since Shimano decided to use a different size than any other shifter mount in the free
world. I don't know the exact size, unfortunately.,,,,BD