Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#6652
Senior Member
My son loves his dt shifters and doesn't want to upgrade or change. I guess it's all personal choice. I love not needing to take my hand off the bars.
#6653
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
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Why can't I see @kingston's picture while others can?
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#6654
Jedi Master
Why can't I see @kingston's picture while others can?
#6655
Senior Member
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Why can't I see @kingston's picture while others can?
By quoting his message I can see he is attempting to hotlink from his Google user account, I don't think Google's storage has global permissions across the Internets. Not the best method for sharing stuff publicly.
#6656
Jedi Master
Perhaps not the most reliable method, but it's definitely the easiest. It only takes a few clicks since photos from my phone automatically synch to google photos. I'll see if I can diagnose the problem since I have dozens of photos posted from the same shared album.
#6657
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It is very critical that we get to the bottom of this...some of us are being deprived of bike pics!
#6658
Senior Member
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I saw it when it was first posted, but now I no longer can.
#6659
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
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Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
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I haven't figured out how to get the Google photos to show- I can see them when I post 'em... no one else can.
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*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#6661
Full Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: mke
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Bikes: Some old steel, some new steel
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I've had trouble with this before too. Is the photo in a shared album? It must be "shared" so that other have access to it. Further, there is a difference between sharing the link to the photo address with the share button (the sort of less-than looking symbol) and right clicking on the photo itself to get the "image address." I always forget which is the right way and it takes a couple tries to get it.
#6662
Jedi Master
I changed some google photo settings and updated the URL for the photo in post 6656. I couldn't see the other one when I was logged into chrome as a guest, but I can see it now. Hopefully that fixes it.
#6664
Senior Member
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#6666
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 330
Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Limited 650B conversion (sold), 1985(?) Guerciotti retro-roadie, 2018 Specialized Allez Sprint, 2012 Specialized Crux, mid 80's Focus MB-400
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Time to re-post my Guerciotti because I upgraded from a 50-34 crankset to the 52-36
I also changed the saddle and bar wrap to black, which looks better than the yellow combo I first built it with.
I also changed the saddle and bar wrap to black, which looks better than the yellow combo I first built it with.
Likes For rowebr:
#6667
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Detroit Metro
Posts: 19
Bikes: 1994 specialized Allez with Sram 10 speed groupset
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Finally pics of my bike
https://www.flickr.com/photos/138785247@N04/
Here is the link to my bike its a 94 specialized road bike. I upgraded the bike a little bit.I was given the 10 speed sram force shifters, Sram force front and rear derailleur and 2 force cassettes 12-28 and a 12-25t cassette for free... I have a aluminium front fork, the seat is a vader saddle that is very comfortable. I took a gamble on this 12 dollar amazon saddle... The brakes are radius, the crank is a shimano ultegra, the wheels are mismatch (until Christmas) with a 23mm tire in the front and a 25mm tire in the rear I love the combo of sizes. I also have a cheap bike computer with a cadence and heart rate sensor. The way it sits it is 21 lbs, not to bad for an older steel bike.
The blue schwinn sprint the back ground will be my winter project.(the guest bike) You can see the 10 speed shimano 105 shifter and cables on the table, this is the winter project. Another Thrift store find for 18 dollars. The bike does not have a scratch on it, the bike was completely original.
Here is the link to my bike its a 94 specialized road bike. I upgraded the bike a little bit.I was given the 10 speed sram force shifters, Sram force front and rear derailleur and 2 force cassettes 12-28 and a 12-25t cassette for free... I have a aluminium front fork, the seat is a vader saddle that is very comfortable. I took a gamble on this 12 dollar amazon saddle... The brakes are radius, the crank is a shimano ultegra, the wheels are mismatch (until Christmas) with a 23mm tire in the front and a 25mm tire in the rear I love the combo of sizes. I also have a cheap bike computer with a cadence and heart rate sensor. The way it sits it is 21 lbs, not to bad for an older steel bike.
The blue schwinn sprint the back ground will be my winter project.(the guest bike) You can see the 10 speed shimano 105 shifter and cables on the table, this is the winter project. Another Thrift store find for 18 dollars. The bike does not have a scratch on it, the bike was completely original.
#6668
Senior Member
I can understand not being enthused with a compact crankset. Just doesn't add anything if you manage well enough on hills.
I like brifters but I guess that's just different folks.
Bike looks great!
I like brifters but I guess that's just different folks.
Bike looks great!
#6669
Running on plenty
Recent change to the Gazelle AB. SRAM Force, Cinelli XA/64-42, Thomson Elite and self-built wheels with Ultegra 6500:
New build. Paconi SLX New, full 5700 105 incl. hubs, SR Royal stem, slight rando bend bars, temporary pedals. Technically this was built for STI/ergo, as it has cable guides on the side of the HT lug:
New build. Paconi SLX New, full 5700 105 incl. hubs, SR Royal stem, slight rando bend bars, temporary pedals. Technically this was built for STI/ergo, as it has cable guides on the side of the HT lug:
#6670
Full Member
Options for 120mm Spacing
Hi all,
I have a 1979 TREK which currently has a 120mm dropout spacing. I have found a shop which I am confident can re-space/re-align the frame and dropouts but need some advise on how far to go. I realize that the further you spread the higher the risk of damaging the frame (Columbus tubing in this case). My goal is to accommodate a rear wheel large enough to use Brifters (STI's most likely). Obviously, the more gears the better in the rear and upfront I'd like a 2 ring, compact setup (50/34).
What do you guys suggest with regards to target spacing and groupset? Like I said, I am partial to Shimano STI's as I have used them for years on modern bikes but will consider other options that make sense.
I have a 1979 TREK which currently has a 120mm dropout spacing. I have found a shop which I am confident can re-space/re-align the frame and dropouts but need some advise on how far to go. I realize that the further you spread the higher the risk of damaging the frame (Columbus tubing in this case). My goal is to accommodate a rear wheel large enough to use Brifters (STI's most likely). Obviously, the more gears the better in the rear and upfront I'd like a 2 ring, compact setup (50/34).
What do you guys suggest with regards to target spacing and groupset? Like I said, I am partial to Shimano STI's as I have used them for years on modern bikes but will consider other options that make sense.
#6671
enginerd
you can safely respace a steel frame from 120mm to 130mm to take modern 8/9/10/11spd wheels
#6672
Senior Member
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Hi all,
I have a 1979 TREK which currently has a 120mm dropout spacing. I have found a shop which I am confident can re-space/re-align the frame and dropouts but need some advise on how far to go. I realize that the further you spread the higher the risk of damaging the frame (Columbus tubing in this case). My goal is to accommodate a rear wheel large enough to use Brifters (STI's most likely). Obviously, the more gears the better in the rear and upfront I'd like a 2 ring, compact setup (50/34).
What do you guys suggest with regards to target spacing and groupset? Like I said, I am partial to Shimano STI's as I have used them for years on modern bikes but will consider other options that make sense.
I have a 1979 TREK which currently has a 120mm dropout spacing. I have found a shop which I am confident can re-space/re-align the frame and dropouts but need some advise on how far to go. I realize that the further you spread the higher the risk of damaging the frame (Columbus tubing in this case). My goal is to accommodate a rear wheel large enough to use Brifters (STI's most likely). Obviously, the more gears the better in the rear and upfront I'd like a 2 ring, compact setup (50/34).
What do you guys suggest with regards to target spacing and groupset? Like I said, I am partial to Shimano STI's as I have used them for years on modern bikes but will consider other options that make sense.
#6673
Senior Member
If you're discussing your Trek 930 frame, a proper groupset, IMHO, would be an earlier (I prefer 9speed) Campy Ergo, or Shimano Dura Ace group.
At that point, a bigger issue than spacing becomes finding a "matching" brakeset to go with either of those groups, or pretty much any "modern" group. Your frame, unless previously modified, should accept nutted brakes, versus recessed mounting. Finding a set of nutted brakes in an STI/Ergo group is impossible. You're left adapting, using a set of aftermarket nutted units, or drilling your frame (don't).
At that point, a bigger issue than spacing becomes finding a "matching" brakeset to go with either of those groups, or pretty much any "modern" group. Your frame, unless previously modified, should accept nutted brakes, versus recessed mounting. Finding a set of nutted brakes in an STI/Ergo group is impossible. You're left adapting, using a set of aftermarket nutted units, or drilling your frame (don't).
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My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,'81 Merckx, '85 Centurion Cinelli, '85 Raleigh Portage, '92 RB-2, '09 Bianchi
My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,
#6674
Full Member
If you're discussing your Trek 930 frame, a proper groupset, IMHO, would be an earlier (I prefer 9speed) Campy Ergo, or Shimano Dura Ace group.
At that point, a bigger issue than spacing becomes finding a "matching" brakeset to go with either of those groups, or pretty much any "modern" group. Your frame, unless previously modified, should accept nutted brakes, versus recessed mounting. Finding a set of nutted brakes in an STI/Ergo group is impossible. You're left adapting, using a set of aftermarket nutted units, or drilling your frame (don't).
At that point, a bigger issue than spacing becomes finding a "matching" brakeset to go with either of those groups, or pretty much any "modern" group. Your frame, unless previously modified, should accept nutted brakes, versus recessed mounting. Finding a set of nutted brakes in an STI/Ergo group is impossible. You're left adapting, using a set of aftermarket nutted units, or drilling your frame (don't).
#6675
Senior Member
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I don't know of adapter nuts, but you can get some nutted tektro dual pivot brakes for not too terribly much money that don't look too terrible that are nutted and don't require frame modifications. I've been told it's possible to remove their decals so it's not obvious that they are not part of whatever groupset with which you are trying to pair them.