That thing is freakin' gorgeous, but then I am biased in favor of red. :)

I am more likely to go with nonindexed barcons than brifters, but I am extremely inclined to switch over to a 9-speed freehub (or an 8-speed with 9-speed spacing) the next time I need to replace a rear wheel on anything but the keep-it-original 1960 Capo.

hey guys.. i'm interested in throwing a modern 130mm 9 or 10 speed road wheel into a vintage, 80's, 126mm spaced road frame... is there anything to it? i read sheldon's site about cold setting, but i think i'd rather not do that if i can just squeeze the frame apart and put the wheel in without too much trouble... is there any hiccups i should watch out for? i won't need to redish the wheel will I? <scared face>

will a crazy new external bottom bracket crankset work on an old frame, like the new shimano 10 speed cranks? i figure as long as it's 68mm english it's fine...

oh.. also... do modern brake calipers mount on 80's road frames? has that changed a whole lot?

Without cold-setting the frame every time you have to take the wheel off or put it on you will have to fight against the resistance of four steel tubes which can get annoying really quickly. If you are afraid of doing it yourself then have a framebuilder or LBS do it for you. And no, you won't have to re-dish your wheel.
-Any 68mm BB should fit your 80's frame including the outboard bearing style.
-As long as the original wheels were 700c modernbrakes should work (assuming that you don't have a 650c TT bike)

what kind of saddle is that?

Selle Royale CX, plastic pan w/hard foam padding and leather stitched top, and if I may comment on my experience with every single one I've used, they're guaranteed to numb your nuts in 5 miles or less.

Fine for out-of-the-saddle rides...useless in all other respects.

-Kurt

I just noticed this thread after placing this pic in the classic/vintage sticky.

Gitane, don't know the model. 501 frame and fork. Nothing really special, but it is a perfect fit and I love the ride.
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/425...4mediumqs7.jpg

Beautiful!
I always loved those back in the '90s! This is the first time I've seen a picture of yours complete, and it looks just right. And that is a massive flower in the background. :D

You must be referring to that carbon fork that somehow slipped past the censors. ;)

Also be sure you have holes designed for recessed nuts, or you'll need to drill. There are modern dual pivots available for traditional nutted mounting, but there are very few sources for them.

Also, be aware that when you spread the rear dropouts vs. coldsetting, you also slightly change the angle of the rear derailleur hanger, which may give you problems with crisp shifting. If you can find a qualified shop to spread the rear triangle (not always easy, depending on your location), they should also align the hanger. Currently, I have one frame spread, rather than coldset, and I've experienced some finicky shifting. Could also be a chainline issue, or the fact that I'm using friction barcons on a modern 'light action' drivetrain.

my '89 paramount os - w/ original 8 spd. dura ace set up -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ro/bike086.jpg

The difference between old 126mm spaced frames, and new 130mm hubs is... wait a second while I do the math... uhm... 4mm. ;)

It's no sweat the squeeze a 130mm road hub into a 126 steel frame without cold setting. 135 mountain hubs require cold setting. If you re-read the Sheldon Brown page I think you will find he states you can generally go up one size on a steel frame without cold setting. i.e. 120-126, or 126-130.

It did turn out quite nice, but I'm still considering ripping off those FSA wheel logos. The red doesn't match anything else. I also need to put a decent pair of pedals and straps on this thing...

Take care,

-Kurt

And here's my submission:

http://jonpfischer.com/thecuda/photo...a/Serotta1.jpg

some more photos in this thread: http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php...hlight=serotta
and in the Serotta link in my sig.

I also did a short write up on the challenges of putting new components on vintage frames which can be read on VeloBase.com

I must say that 80's - early 90's bikes do make very sweet "hotrods" as these fine examples have shown. One of these days I'm going to find a nice red/white/chrome Bottecchia SLX or TSX frame from that period and do the same thing. I haven't seen any older bike that I liked that much upgrading on - the mid-80's styling changes were HUGE compared to what had been the standard for some 40 odd years or so prior to that and haven't changed a lot since except for the carbon stuff so carefully adding a few modern bits to later bike is hardly noticable except for the brifters. Even then I'm fine with the old style Campy brifters with the pointy tops. The newer ones not as much and the Shimano not at all but to each his/her own.

My 1986 Schwinn Voyageur with Shimano 105 compact double 10 speed drive train.

More pics to follow in the "Vintage Touring Bike" thread once I get the racks on her, and probably my Brooks saddle.

My Battaglin - also again...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../BatFinal1.jpg

It's not a big deal to cold set a frame. I've attached a picture of my father in-law spreading my 1972 Paramount frame to 130 from 120 using a Swedish clamp. Worked like a charm. A frame shop will probably charge $50 or so to do it for you.

Concerning the brakes, I bought some used modern campy chorus brakes to put on my frame. All I had to do was drill one side of the frame out a little bit to accept the recessed brakes. Again, no big deal.

Tracy

My Peugeot Triathlon. Added the 8 spd 105 STI's. And before anyone says anything, yes that is a technomic. :) (Frame's a little small.)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...aker/Level.jpg

My '87 912 (again)

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1367/...bdd753fb_b.jpg

That is a beautiful bike..... but you lose points for the mismatched tires. :D

Check back in the spring. I need about 2K to rectify that problem.

As requested in another thread (if you read it)...
1986 Trek Elance 400T. It came (originally and to me) with Sakae SX 50-45-32 triple (170mm on a 23" frame. Is that odd? I expected 175's), Shimano Light Action friction dt shifters, non-aero levers, original Specialized Body Geometry saddle, 14-28 6sp freewheel, Shimano Z-570 (with quick release) brakes, and Malliard hubs laced to Matrix Titan 700C wheels. The 86s were supposed to come with a 5sp freewheel on Rigida wheels, but the guy who owned it says it came off the showroom floor with the 6sp stuff (his parents bought it for him before he went off to college).
The bike now has Tiagra brake/shifters, original derailleurs & brakes, original crank & BB, Cane Creek Stratos wheels, Nitto Technomic stem (I had it set up w/high moustache bars & barend shifters for commuting), Salsa Bell Lap Moto Ace 'cross bars, Specialized Alias 130mm saddle and a 12-25 9sp cassette. All the modern parts came off my Surly CrossCheck. The Trek is a lot nicer frame, it rides better, has better brakes, is lighter (originally 23.5 lbs, now about 22), and is way better looking. :)
Being new(er) to cycling I didn't realized how nice a pump peg (no velcro strap needed for the frame pump) and a chain holder are.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2159/...cf45cd9f_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2352/...6ffe5f07_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2354/...d5f8d16a_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2007/...97937bbf_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2138/...eff74d79_m.jpg

I've taken up plenty of space, more pics here.

Another Trek:

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/Trekside.jpg

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n.../trekfront.jpg

Shifters? You mean those lever thingys attached to the cables that went to those mechanical looking gizmos that my chain went around? I didn't know I was supposed to replace them?

http://velospace.org/files/fg3.jpg

Here my marinoni

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1323/img2354qy5.jpg


http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/8994/img2366le9.jpg