Anyone ever attempted this on a Sturmey Archer? The instructions for it (from 3-speed free) were released by SA in '81, but there was supposedly a lot of backlash with the fixed. I'd use these instructions. Does anyone have an idea for how to do this differently to eliminate some of this backlash?

Also, I'd love to do the Bendix conversion (found here), but would have to find a cable-actuated (not the kickback) Bendix hub. Anyone have one lying around?

One of the latest fixed gear gallery entries, HERE, has a Sturmey AW shell fitted with five-speed internals that has been altered to make three speed fixed. The guy claims "there is 'almost' no slop"! And he shifts it with an STI lever!!! Might be worth an email.

The best hub to use is the Torpedo coaster brake 3 speed.I think Sheldon has a piece on them---the new versions.To really get the slop out you would need to machine the fixing block---I hand made one and had less than a inch movement at the pedal end of the crank arm

I used a torpedo 3 speed coaster and had about an inch play at the pedal end of the crank.I hand made the fixing block---a machined on would reduce the play to almost zero.And torpedo hubs were a lot better made than SAs.

Do you mean this? My main concern is the price: I'm looking for a cheap-ish winter project while waiting for the new Sturmey ASC to come out.

Use this hub:
https://cgi.ebay.com/TORPEDO-26-X-1-7...sid=p1638.m118

remove the brake blocks and make a fixed block---hold in with spring and "C" clip,Also you must remove one set of the paws(but it's been a while and I'm can't say which set)
These are very well made hubs.

So you just remove the coaster arm and blocks? What did you use for the fixed block? How much backlash was there?

You do remove the coaster blocks or brake shoes.There's two parts inside that have paws---I forget which one but you must remove the paws on one.The fixing block is a part that you "MUST" make.I had about 1 inch of slop measured at the pedal end of the crank arm,if you made a machined fix block I think at least half of that slop would be gone .

Removing just the brake shoes will NOT make a coaster brake hub a fixed gear. That will NOT prevent freewheeling of the hub. Welding the shoes to the hub shell, then removing the brake arm, will make a fixed gear.

Shimano hubs have a lot less slop than SA hubs do.

In general, or for fixed?