To get or not to get...
 

I have a peugeot ph 501 which is a rather large frame. It's about a 58 or 60 and I have very little, actually pretty much no, clearance. I ride a 54cm cannondale for my fast bike so this one is definitely huge.

I have an offer for it for 200 bucks so I think I'm going to let it go. I'm looking to pick up a bike or two to replace it. I live in an area where it isn't too hilly so I'm hoping to pick up a fixie/single speed to leave at home.

However, I'd like to replace the geared peugeot with another steelie to ride as a campus bike and to go out on fun rides. I found a 56 cm bike that I think meets the bill and I was wondering what you guys think it's worth and if it's worth it.

Any accessory information you guys have, first hand or not, about this bike and what I should look for when I inspect it.

Thanks a lot!

Here's the link.

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/514674465.html

Where are you, and what did you find? Hard to know if it's worth it if we don't know what it is? A 22" Schwinn Varsity? Probably not worth it. A 56 cm De Rosa? Buy it yesterday. :D



Longshot: If you're anywhere near me, I have a couple 54-ish cm steel bikes I'm looking to find new homes for.

You're about 200 miles away.
A little too far unfortunately. I would have loved to take you up on that offer.

:lol: I have that exact same model from the same year (in 54 cm). I'm in the process of building it up with more modern components. I got mine for a lot less off the Harrisburg Craigslist earlier this year - but I practically stole mine.

You will possibly never find a vintage steel frame that's lighter. I think the asking price is a little bit high, but not outrageous. It's worth checking out. If you like it, it's a whole lot more bike for the money that anything you could buy new.

Can you give me a gauge on what I should try to talk the seller down to. I was thinking of offering 200-250 and working up from there hopefully getting it for about 250. I don't think it's worth that much more than that especially if the frame is chipped and not in spectacular condition.
What'd you get yours for, you can pm me if you want.

Will the frame take 130 mm spaced wheels? I can get 105 10 speed shifters, cassette, brakes, RD/FD, for a pretty good price and it'd be awesome if I could do my first build on this stuff.

That was Trek's top of the line bike back then. The 770 was probably a little more expensive because of the Campy SR components, but the Superbe (super bee) Pro components were arguably better if not as prestigious. Personally, I don't think I would go more than $300 unless the paint was in pristine condition.
If you plan on replacing everything with modern components, you can probably sell the Suntour stuff on Ebay for some pretty good change. But I would keep it as is for a while. You might find you like it.
The rear should be easily capable of being spread to 130mm.
Here is the page from the Trek catalog courtesy of vintage-trek.com.
Note that the stock wheels were for tubulars.
http://vintage-trek.com/images/trek/84Trek_8_72.jpg

Is it really pronounced super bee? I aways thought it was, but I have been told otherwise recently

On topic. I would buy the bike and put on the 10sp 105 and sell the Superbe parts to off set some of the cost.

The RD was replaced by a shimano 600 according to the seller. So that probably reduced the value too.

That's the problem around here though. I don't know any shop that would spread the rear dropouts. All the ones I've been to for the peugeot have just told me to keep pulling the frame apart for the wheel since they didn't want the liability of spreading it.

Plus I'd need to buy another rear wheel for the bike if I upgraded it. It might be worth it though. I might only be 18, but for about 600 bucks invested (less 200 for the sold peugeot so 400ish) the trek would probably be along the lines of a lifetime bike if I took care of it.

I'm 19 so i know how you feel. I am in the process of building a steel Bianchi with 8sp Dura Ace, I don't think i will get rid of it anytime soon. I have been buying parts for a year and I just spent 3 days striping the frame for powdercoat.

1. Always buy what fits. I've been passing up alot of nice bike because I'm waiting for the right size.

2. Craiglist? Offer 50% and work your way up from there.

I don't know. I was just referring to the ad. "All original bike except the bike was built with Suntour Super Bee Pro drive"
When I read that, I thought it had a Hemi. (obscure reference to a 60's muscle car)

Nice. Does anybody have a definitive answer?

Concerning the pronunciation? The word Superbe being French I am 99.9% sure it is pronounced ''Superb'' and not ''Super-Bee'' , lol

If I offer half for that, the seller will probably just hang up haha. I think the seller deals a lot in the buying/selling of older bikes on craigslist because they have characteristics in their descriptions that match. I think offering like 200-225 and seeing from their might work.

The original wheels aren't there, and neither is the original RD which are two of the 'better' parts on the original bike. Plus the seller gives the bike a 7/10 for condition.

I used to ride a 56 bikesdirect motobecane, which felt fine even on 30+ mile rides, so I'm really hoping this fits. Ironically, my cannondale starts to hurt after an hour of riding because I'm just not used to the huge drop slash need to get the fit modified.

Will the brakes currently on the bike work with the 10 speed shifters? The 105 brakes aren't too expensive but I'm wondering if they'd fit slash, if I didn't need them then why bother. As long as the originals work well anyway.

Are the new 105's that much better, slash are they compatible?

all modern (70s on) sidepull brakes work with all current road controls. V brakes and cantilevers are a different story.

I have several bikes with 70s nuovo record calipers and 90s ergo controls. the super bee (what a maroon) brakes are NR knock-offs.

cardiackid -- you weren't the only one that thought of yellow mopars when you saw super bee.

I think the French would be more like "syoopehhrb-eh" with the final syllable barely voiced.

On topic content: did the OP buy the danged thing? Listing is still up. Doesn't look like a Superbe crank (Sugino Super Mighty?) unless it's early Super Bee ;^)

Haven't bought it yet. I came home from college friday night and pretty much passed out. I was awake for about 5 hours between when I went to bed friday night and right now when I actually woke up (11 am on sunday).

I'm going to call the seller soon and see what price deal we can work out. It's kinda dependent on selling the peugeot so I'm going to call that buyer first.

Wish me luck!
I'm hoping it fits, then again, I've been riding a 58/60 cm peugeot frame comfortably, so a 56 shouldn't be that different from a 54 cannondale. Wohoo!

Dealing with the seller: Do NOT make an opening offer on the phone. As you've probably guessed, he'll take that to be "another time waster" and hang up. If you're seriously interested in the bike, at least have the courtesy to take the time and go see it. Then start dickering.

I know that when I sell, if I get a call that opens with, "I'm interested in your bike, where is it, and when would be a convenient time to see it?", I've got someone to take at least semi-seriously. Odds are, we'll come to a deal, even if it is a few bucks under what I'd really like to get for it.

Attitude is everything, especially in a business transaction.

Assuming that the 760 ride like the 460 I recently got (same family and design, if not the same tubing) you're going to love it.

I called the guy and talked to him about the bike. It's a 6 speed freewheel, so the frame spacing is probably 126, which means that I'd have to have it stretched in order to put the 10 speed 105 stuff on it and I don't know of any bike shop in the area that would stretch it (and do it right).

I didn't offer on the phone. I was hoping to talk him down to 250, but I just asked him what he'd go down to and before I had a chance to do that, he was talking about how a lot of guys are telling him that he's charging too much. He told me that he saw one in great condition sell for 600 (his is in 7/10 condition wise). He said he'd go down to 300, but that was it. I told him I'd think about it today and call him about it tomorrow.

It seems a little on the high side, what do you guys think? He has all the sales literature, receipt, and everything for it. The RD was replaced with a shimano 600, and the seat isn't the original. Other than that everything is original and he said the frame is in good condition. I think I'm going to take 300 in hand with 50 not in my wallet and see how it goes. It's his brother's (or brother in law's) bike so I don't think he'd take too much of a hit.

Would it be a good idea to get the 10 speed 105 stuff? I can get the shifters, RD+FD, Cassette, and brakes for a little less than 300 bucks.

Thanks for your help guys.

Are you in Philly? Have you tried Bicycle Therapy on South Street?

Coldsetting a steel bike from 126 to 130 is a trival job.

Actually, depending on the tolerances of the frame, coldsetting may be unnecessary. I'd first try mounting the rear wheel on the stock frame before hiring anyone to modify. You may find that mounting the wheel isn't all that difficult.

I can, and have set a frame, mostly 120 to 126. In about 5 minutes, It helps being an amature cabinetmaker and owning a pile of Jorgenson Cabinetmakers clamps. :D

More than likely, you can just pull it apart with your hands, however, here is how Sheldon Brown says to do it, if that fails. http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html