Home Brew Rust Remover - Molasses!
#1
Home Brew Rust Remover - Molasses!
I found this on the web and thought I'd pass it along. Might be a cheaper alternative to oxalic acid and other industrial rust removers.
I'm going to try it out and post my findings in this thread.
Check it out... https://www.wr6wr.com/newSite/article...06/wp0906.html
Dante
I'm going to try it out and post my findings in this thread.Check it out... https://www.wr6wr.com/newSite/article...06/wp0906.html
Dante
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#2
"that's fantastic"! And thanks for the article: since we in C&V are always battling rust, it's always welcome to expand the arsenal. Molasses has got to be the most eco-friendly option yet, I'm going to try it out soon.
#3
Lanky Lass
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 21,434
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From: Take a deep breath, and ask--What would Sheldon do?
Bikes: Nishiki Nut! International, Pro, Olympic 12, Sport mixte, and others too numerous to mention.
Most intriguing.
Now to see if I have anything like that in the house. I think the closest I come is treacle
.
East Hill
Now to see if I have anything like that in the house. I think the closest I come is treacle
.East Hill
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#6
I'm whats for dinner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 183
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From: Outskirts of Houston
Bikes: 06 Specialized Rockhopper Comp
well I wonder how Cro-Mo would be affected as well. Might have to find a section from an old frame before going crazy on something I intend to keep.
anyone got a kid going to the science fair this year??
anyone got a kid going to the science fair this year??
#7
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
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From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
would I use Lyles Golden Syrup for light rust?
sounds interesting, I would think of it as more of a Framesaver replacement.
marty
sounds interesting, I would think of it as more of a Framesaver replacement.
marty
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#8
Originally Posted by article
When I took the saw blade out of the solution, the copper had been stripped off the steel wire. So, there are probably some acids in the molasses that like copper or brass. I also tried an old brass key base in the molasses for about 12 hours. The bare brass had a copper color, which means the zinc has been removed from the brass. Test a throw-away piece before you try to de-rust a good piece just to make sure it won’t ruin something. More testing is needed on other metals to see how they react to the molasses.
#9
Lanky Lass
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 21,434
Likes: 7
From: Take a deep breath, and ask--What would Sheldon do?
Bikes: Nishiki Nut! International, Pro, Olympic 12, Sport mixte, and others too numerous to mention.
Only those who are not British!
Lyle's Golden Syrup is not molasses...
.
East Hill
Lyle's Golden Syrup is not molasses...
.East Hill
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#10
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
Likes: 12
From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
It isn't? gee after all these years . . .
(most seppo's have no clue what Lyles Golden Syrup is, poor buggers)
marty
(most seppo's have no clue what Lyles Golden Syrup is, poor buggers)
marty
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#11
I learned the hard way from my British relations (relatives) about the sanctity of certain foods...don't you even dare to suggest that No. American Heinz baked beans are roughly the same as those in the UK can (with the light blue label) 
and BTW the Golden Syrups (Lyles and/or other brands) contain invert sugar and cane sugar syrup as well as light molasses...might work for a rust remover solution , but definitely will make for a sour, skunky flavored home brew (with a high alcohol level). beentheredonethat.

and BTW the Golden Syrups (Lyles and/or other brands) contain invert sugar and cane sugar syrup as well as light molasses...might work for a rust remover solution , but definitely will make for a sour, skunky flavored home brew (with a high alcohol level). beentheredonethat.
Last edited by unworthy1; 12-29-07 at 12:59 PM.
#12
Lanky Lass
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 21,434
Likes: 7
From: Take a deep breath, and ask--What would Sheldon do?
Bikes: Nishiki Nut! International, Pro, Olympic 12, Sport mixte, and others too numerous to mention.
.East Hill
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#13
Update!
The experiment is underway. I mixed up a batch of "Grandma's Molasses" in the correct ratio of 9 to 1 with hot tap water.
I dropped into the mix a Suntour front derailleur, rear derailleur, a pair of steel pedals, and two cable stops. I'll let them soak for two days and report back with my findings.
Dante
P.S. Here are some before pictures of the derailleurs and the front brake cable stop...


The experiment is underway. I mixed up a batch of "Grandma's Molasses" in the correct ratio of 9 to 1 with hot tap water.
I dropped into the mix a Suntour front derailleur, rear derailleur, a pair of steel pedals, and two cable stops. I'll let them soak for two days and report back with my findings.
Dante
P.S. Here are some before pictures of the derailleurs and the front brake cable stop...


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Last edited by High Fist Shin; 12-28-07 at 03:49 PM.
#17
Ol' Paint

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 393
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From: Garland, Texas and Tahlequah, OK
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Grand Prix,'71 Schwinn Super Sport, '73 Schwinn Paramount, '83 Schwinn Super Sport, '84(?) Univega Gran Sprint, '89 Schwinn Waterford Paramount
Has anyone considered making a paste with oxalic acid dust and molasses and "painting" it on rust spots on a frame that needs a little tlc? I have a frame with some nasty chain slap, but don't want to dismantle the whole thing for an oxalic bath. Worst case, a chemical combo would make a weapon of mass destruction (not likely, but think ammonia and bleach). Best case, I'd be able to remove rust only in a small selected area. Any thoughts?
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#19
Leather and Canvas Fetish

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 263
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From: SoCal
Has anyone considered making a paste with oxalic acid dust and molasses and "painting" it on rust spots on a frame that needs a little tlc? I have a frame with some nasty chain slap, but don't want to dismantle the whole thing for an oxalic bath. Worst case, a chemical combo would make a weapon of mass destruction (not likely, but think ammonia and bleach). Best case, I'd be able to remove rust only in a small selected area. Any thoughts?
Later, I made my usual weak solution of oxalic acid and water, soaked a strip of rag, wrapped it tightly around the rusted chrome dropout and sealed it with plastic wrap so it wouldn't evaporate. I repeated this a few times and it came out great.
#20
Leather and Canvas Fetish

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 263
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From: SoCal
I always thought molasses was the by-product of sugar?
#21
You are correct.
Molasses or treacle is a thick syrup by-product from the processing of the sugarcane or sugar beet into sugar. The sugar cane plant is harvested and stripped of its leaves. Its juice is extracted from the canes, usually by crushing or mashing. The juice is boiled to concentrate and promote the crystallization of the sugar.
The results of this first boiling and removal of sugar crystal is first molasses, which has the highest sugar content because comparatively little sugar has been extracted from the juice.
Second molasses is created from a second boiling and sugar extraction, and has a slight bitter tinge to its taste.
Gotta love Wikipedia!
Molasses or treacle is a thick syrup by-product from the processing of the sugarcane or sugar beet into sugar. The sugar cane plant is harvested and stripped of its leaves. Its juice is extracted from the canes, usually by crushing or mashing. The juice is boiled to concentrate and promote the crystallization of the sugar.
The results of this first boiling and removal of sugar crystal is first molasses, which has the highest sugar content because comparatively little sugar has been extracted from the juice.
Second molasses is created from a second boiling and sugar extraction, and has a slight bitter tinge to its taste.
Gotta love Wikipedia!
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In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
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#23
Just to clear things up, North American molasses = British treacle. Sounds like a plan if you can't find oxalic acid. I had no luck finding any hardware store or building supply that knew wood bleach or oxalic acid, but finally located some on line at a taxidermy supply site. One word of caution: Be sure to degrease the parts thoroughly before trying rust removal solutions. Rust removers are not degreasers, so if the parts are oil soaked, you'll still have black spots of rust that remain. I found this using oxalic acid on a rusty steel crankset.
#25
The parts have been soaking for 36 hours so far. I'll check them tonight and write up a report this evening or tomorrow (with pictures of course).
Keep your fingers crossed.

Dante
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