After wreslting the Ofmega crank set off my Morinoni this morning I have decided To install the Chorus Crank with the proper bolt torque.
Does anyone know the specs for correct torque of the Chorus crank?

And while I'm at it I may as well ask this.
Why do my bearings surfaces eat themselves even after the most careful setup?
The Ofmega BB was 20 years old and although it did show signs of wear it was in very good condition.
I cleaned/regreased the BB in June and set it up perfectly. 5 months later the right cup is pitted.
This has happened to a couple of my cranks lately.
Am I killing these somehow or are they just getting on with age?
Maybe its time to upgrade into the 90's with a cartridge BB.

I don't use a torque wrench. Crank bolts have to be quite tight - I give them more torque than any other part on a bike - about 80% of my strength.... In other words, make them tight, but don't overdo it.

As for your bottom bracket woes, well it could be a number of things. Was the adjustment still good right before you removed it? I periodically check BB adjustments, especially after I've just repacked them. Being an Ofmega BB, I am guessing that the threading is Italian, which makes for a tendency (though it has never happened to me) for fixed cups to come loose. A little bit of knocking could spell trouble.
Was the bike subject to wet weather or other dirty conditions? If so, dirt and grime may have entered and chewed the cup up - it doesn't take much really.
All I can suggest is to use a lot of grease, make sure every part is very clean (don't reuse ANY parts that show any pitting or other severe wear) and check adjustments regularly.

The Campy installation instructions I have recommend 32-38 N-m (23.6-28 lb-ft). I usually grease the taper (which they explicitly tell you not to do) so I err towards the low end of that range.

Did you reuse the old bearing balls?

I clean the parts in an ultra sonic washer. I let them dry and wipe them down.
I am using the old bearings though, but they have looked to be in fine shape.
The only common denominator is the Park Tool Polylube 1000 that I have used since June.
Before that I have always used extreme pressure grease. The same stuff I use on birfield joints in Rovers and Land Cruisers.
Now I have put the Chorus BB back together with the Park Tool grease and the original Campy bearings.
Would it be wise to tear it down after a few good rides and swap loose balls and better grease back in?
I torqued the crank arms dry to about 260 inch pounds.
These vintage Chorus BB's are getting hard to find.

the campy bearings (are they the caged ones?) should be just fine, if the races are all good you might as well reuse the bearings (i always do) and frankly the quality is probably better than what a lot of LBS use for loose bearings. I have to say I think park polylube sucks, but really it shouldn't be that important if you ride it in clean weather. Make sure the plastic cylinder guard is properly fitted so nothing is getting in.

are you adjusting things too tightly ?
that would probably be the best way to destroy bearings..

otherwise, 260 in-lbs seems like a reasonable amount for crank arm torque

I usually seat the bearings then back them off. Then I dial in just a bit of preload as these are ball bearings. I set them so they spin smooth as silk but with just a bit of preload.
But the grease (Park Tool) looked like crap after 2000KM. The extreme pressure grease I was using before looked much better.
I think I am going back to my 5 gallon grease pail.

not sure what you mean by preload...
could this be the problem ?

basically you want to make the adjustment as loose as can be without there being any play in the spindle..

That would be preload.
To a lesser extent though.