fixed gear project
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 421
Likes: 3
From: Texas
fixed gear project
Hi there,
I've always wanted to do a fixed gear with an older bike, I got these 2 candidates to build one, which of the 2 would be better to make it into a fixie, I choose these because I like the lugged look on the fixie. have no idea what they are except one says kia meridian and the other one is an older schwinn
here's some pics






Thanks for your help.
I've always wanted to do a fixed gear with an older bike, I got these 2 candidates to build one, which of the 2 would be better to make it into a fixie, I choose these because I like the lugged look on the fixie. have no idea what they are except one says kia meridian and the other one is an older schwinn
here's some pics






Thanks for your help.
#4
road curmudgeon, FG rider
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 677
Likes: 1
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Bikes: 1973 Nishiki Professional, 1990 Serotta Colorado II, 2002 Waterford Track
If they both fit equally well then use the one with a higher bottombracket clearance.
Pedal strikes are not fun. (Or you could use Speedplay pedals to gain more cornering lean)
Pedal strikes are not fun. (Or you could use Speedplay pedals to gain more cornering lean)
#5
surly old man

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 44
From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Converting to FG means solving the chainline problem. In short this usually means both trying to bring the bring the chainring in as tight as possible and then respacing/redishing the rear wheel as much as necessary to meet the chainline given by the chainring.
Therefore, pick the bike (or perhaps the crankset) that allows the most options for moving CL in. Chainrings that can be unbolted and shifted to the inside of the spider arms is good.
jim
Therefore, pick the bike (or perhaps the crankset) that allows the most options for moving CL in. Chainrings that can be unbolted and shifted to the inside of the spider arms is good.
jim
__________________
Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
--------------------------
SB forever
Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
--------------------------
SB forever
#6
road curmudgeon, FG rider
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 677
Likes: 1
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Bikes: 1973 Nishiki Professional, 1990 Serotta Colorado II, 2002 Waterford Track
Converting to FG means solving the chainline problem. In short this usually means both trying to bring the bring the chainring in as tight as possible and then respacing/redishing the rear wheel as much as necessary to meet the chainline given by the chainring.
Therefore, pick the bike (or perhaps the crankset) that allows the most options for moving CL in. Chainrings that can be unbolted and shifted to the inside of the spider arms is good.
jim
Therefore, pick the bike (or perhaps the crankset) that allows the most options for moving CL in. Chainrings that can be unbolted and shifted to the inside of the spider arms is good.
jim
If you are lucky you may not even have to redish your rear wheel.
A straight chain line is a beautiful thing.
Be careful not to get the chain too tight as this binds the drivetrain and wears everthing out far too soon.
#7
.


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
Likes: 38
From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
yeah, whichever fits better. I'd pick the Schwinn. You should be able to reuse the brakes, handlebars, stem, saddle, seatpost, front wheels. The Meridian has cottered cranks while the Schwinn has a triple crank. I'd get a road crank with 130mm BCD and use that for the fixie. Get a fixed/fixed hub from Harris Cyclery and have the local LBS rebuild your back wheel with it.
On the road crank, use a 46 or 48T chainring on the inside of the spider. This is to better match the width of the rear hub so your chainline is straight(or nearly so). You'll need some shorter bolts but you can find those at the LBS or Harris cyclery again.
I'd get new brake cables and housing. While you technically don't need a rear brake with a fixed gear bike, I still recommend one. A front one most definitely. Don't worry, you can still choose not to use the brakes and do mad skids but there will be a time when you will be dang glad you had those brakes.
Have fun!
On the road crank, use a 46 or 48T chainring on the inside of the spider. This is to better match the width of the rear hub so your chainline is straight(or nearly so). You'll need some shorter bolts but you can find those at the LBS or Harris cyclery again.
I'd get new brake cables and housing. While you technically don't need a rear brake with a fixed gear bike, I still recommend one. A front one most definitely. Don't worry, you can still choose not to use the brakes and do mad skids but there will be a time when you will be dang glad you had those brakes.
Have fun!
#9
Large Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,186
Likes: 1
From: Okinawa
Bikes: 05 Giant TCR 0; 94 Le Mond Alpe d'Huez; 83 Colnago Saronni; 81 San Rensho Katana Super Export track bike, #A116-56; 97 GT Zaskar
convert the schwinn, and sell the meridian.
the schwinn has slightly tighter geometry and better cranks, but you'll need new chain and pedals at a minimum.
keep all the old stuff and sell it when somene posts a request on eBay. you'd be surprised what some of the screws and so on sell for.
the schwinn has slightly tighter geometry and better cranks, but you'll need new chain and pedals at a minimum.
keep all the old stuff and sell it when somene posts a request on eBay. you'd be surprised what some of the screws and so on sell for.





