Crank Arm removal
05-02-08 | 06:08 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
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From: Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
Bikes: 1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
Crank Arm removal
I'm having problems removing the crank arms from my old Huffy Mark 10 (Raleigh Sprite). Don't know if you can tell from the attached picture, but there's a nut on one side and it looks like the pin should just come out on the other (It's round and smooth, doesn't look like it needs to be screwed out). Any suggestions? Hints?
05-02-08 | 06:27 AM
#2
Oldtimer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 221
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From: Foothills of the Catskills in New York
Bikes: 1972 Raleigh LTD, 1985 Cannondale SR300 (2), 1986 ROSS Eurotour, 1991 Giant Sedona MTB, 1992 Trek Antelope MTB
05-02-08 | 07:10 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
Bikes: 1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
05-02-08 | 11:55 AM
#4
Old biker
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 252
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From: Radium Springs, NM
Bikes: Custom Cammack touring road and 1987 Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Been there many many times. I suggest you do NOT hit the nutted end of the cotter with a hammer. It will definitely bugger up the thread and you will need new cotters. I use a very large - 12" long - C clamp. I soak the cotter all over with Kroil brand penetrating fluid (it's the only one to use) all over for a day or at least several hours. I select a socket wrench that will fit over the round end of the cotter and place the adjustable end of the C clamp on it with the fixed end on the loosened cotter nut. I give the C clamp all the power I can muster. You may have to realign the C clamp if it wants to pop off the cotter. Leave it clamped for a while. Sometimes the cotter will break free with only that force if the cotter has been lubed when it was reinstalled in the past. If not I tap the C clamp with a large-ish hammer. It usually takes only a couple of taps to break the cotter free. It's a good idea to support the crank arm like Sheldon says to keep from transmitting too much force to the BB bearings. When you put the cotter back in put a little grease of never-seize on it. That will make it a lot easier to take out next time. Before you tighten the cotter nut down give the cotter a couple of taps to seat it and snug it down with the nut.
Good luck.
Good luck.
05-02-08 | 12:49 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City (formerlly Austin)
Bikes: 1981 Miyata 710; Specialized Allez Comp
Been there many many times. I suggest you do NOT hit the nutted end of the cotter with a hammer. It will definitely bugger up the thread and you will need new cotters. I use a very large - 12" long - C clamp. I soak the cotter all over with Kroil brand penetrating fluid (it's the only one to use) all over for a day or at least several hours. I select a socket wrench that will fit over the round end of the cotter and place the adjustable end of the C clamp on it with the fixed end on the loosened cotter nut. I give the C clamp all the power I can muster. You may have to realign the C clamp if it wants to pop off the cotter. Leave it clamped for a while. Sometimes the cotter will break free with only that force if the cotter has been lubed when it was reinstalled in the past. If not I tap the C clamp with a large-ish hammer. It usually takes only a couple of taps to break the cotter free. It's a good idea to support the crank arm like Sheldon says to keep from transmitting too much force to the BB bearings. When you put the cotter back in put a little grease of never-seize on it. That will make it a lot easier to take out next time. Before you tighten the cotter nut down give the cotter a couple of taps to seat it and snug it down with the nut.Good luck.
That's a great idea, I'll try this before banging up the cotter. Thanks.
