Wolber tubulars
#1
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manwench
Joined: Apr 2006
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Wolber tubulars
Bought a set of track wheels and they came with a mounted pair of Wolbers. Obviously the base tape has separated...what to do? I know to use Jevelot or latex of some sort, but what about that nasty adhesive?
How do you get that crap off? Sam
How do you get that crap off? Sam
#2
road curmudgeon, FG rider
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 677
Likes: 1
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Bikes: 1973 Nishiki Professional, 1990 Serotta Colorado II, 2002 Waterford Track
If the rubber and the sidewalls are still in good shape then send them to tirealert@tirealert.com and for about $15/each (including return shipping) he will glue on a NEW basetape to your tire.
For $16 total you can get a new butyl tube AND a new basetape.
If you want a lightweight tube the total cost is $18/tire.
Gerry
For $16 total you can get a new butyl tube AND a new basetape.
If you want a lightweight tube the total cost is $18/tire.
Gerry
#4
road curmudgeon, FG rider
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 677
Likes: 1
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Bikes: 1973 Nishiki Professional, 1990 Serotta Colorado II, 2002 Waterford Track
I would be wary of using old basetape. Even if you reglue the detached areas how can you be sure of the integrity of the rest of the original bond to the tire?
Are you willing to risk your own hide on that bond?
Are you willing to risk your own hide on that bond?
#5
Large Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,186
Likes: 1
From: Okinawa
Bikes: 05 Giant TCR 0; 94 Le Mond Alpe d'Huez; 83 Colnago Saronni; 81 San Rensho Katana Super Export track bike, #A116-56; 97 GT Zaskar
depends on how old the glue is. strip off as much of the base tape as possible by hand, then test remove some of the glue. if it is dry and hard and crunchy when you scrape or pick it off, it's toast and the glue can, in fact, MUST, be removed as much as possible. a brass wire wheel or brush works wonders for this. any shreds of old tape will come off at this time. using a steel wire brush is a bit faster but is likely to damage any anodising on the rim.
if the glue still has some stickiness or rubbery feel to it, it can probably be left on and used as the base coat of a new glue job. you will have to carefully pick out any tape remains you can find. fill any bare areas with more glue than you use on the rest of the built up areas to minimise lumpy bits under the new tire. the solvent in the new glue will dissolve the old glue and bond it together.
the rubber in the glue eventually oxidises to a point where it is so cross-linked it cannot flow at all, and that's when it's dry and dead. but for the first few years it is on the rim, you should be able to revive it with new glue.
do not run the old tire with the old base tape. that's asking for serious separation trouble, and you only discover that at maximum lean going downhill, which tends to be painful... if the glue is old enough to be dry and crunchy, you're probably best off using completely new tires.
edit: you talking about the rims or the tires?
if the glue still has some stickiness or rubbery feel to it, it can probably be left on and used as the base coat of a new glue job. you will have to carefully pick out any tape remains you can find. fill any bare areas with more glue than you use on the rest of the built up areas to minimise lumpy bits under the new tire. the solvent in the new glue will dissolve the old glue and bond it together.
the rubber in the glue eventually oxidises to a point where it is so cross-linked it cannot flow at all, and that's when it's dry and dead. but for the first few years it is on the rim, you should be able to revive it with new glue.
do not run the old tire with the old base tape. that's asking for serious separation trouble, and you only discover that at maximum lean going downhill, which tends to be painful... if the glue is old enough to be dry and crunchy, you're probably best off using completely new tires.
edit: you talking about the rims or the tires?
Last edited by urodacus; 05-16-08 at 01:08 AM.




