trek 1000 wheel question
#1
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trek 1000 wheel question
Okay all, I have a 1988 Trek 1000 that I just picked up. Suntour 4050 Edge components, Matrix (stock I believe) wheel set. I took it to the LBS to have the wheels trued today and they called me this evening. okay I knew there was a wobble in my rear wheel. They said the rear wheel is in need of attention. These are matrix wheels that came original with the trek 1000 that I got (it's a 1988 mind you) they said that I should look at replacing the wheel, they said bearing are bad, the axle is not spinning true in the hub. maybe missing a bearing? Is this something I should tackle and fix myself. I'd like to keep the cost down, so fixing is more optimal than replacing. This bike is not going to be raced or anything, however I do want it reliable. What am I getting into tearing apart this back wheel??
#3
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I am a newbie, but pretty handy with tools so I plan to take a look at it myself. I like your worst case senario. I did some searching and haven't found any Matrix wheels like what is on it, so I would have to go after a complete new set. I found some Vuelta wheels, they say sell for 450-600 for around 150. But I know nothing about these wheels other than they have Shimano Sealed hubs and they are made in Italy. Also says the wheel is 700X18mm wondering if a 700X25mm tire will fit on this wheel
#4
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I concur with Roger. Good luck with it, and post again if you need any kibitzing from the rest of us.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#5
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,417
Likes: 1,882
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
SheldonBrown.com has a useful tire size / rim width compatibility chart.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#6
You Know!? For Kids!



Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Just NW of Richardson Bike Mart
Bikes: '05 Trek 1200 / '90 Trek 8000 / '? Falcon Europa
I rode a 1988 Trek 1000 with Matrix TitanS wheel set on it for almost 20 years. Eventually, the eyelets began to crack and let go, rendering the rims useless. I would consider a new wheel set if I were in your shoes. I traded my Trek 1000 in against a modern Trek 1200 and although I love the new bike, I still miss my old girl. Those bonded aluminum Treks have an excellent ride quality.
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#7
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Joined: Dec 2005
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What kind of hub is on that wheel? If it's a Maillard Heliochromatic (often found on 80s Treks), that might have scared off your LBS. But I agree that you might as well see if you can overhaul it yourself before springing for a new wheel.
Neal
Neal
#8
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thanks for all the feedback, I will check and see what kind of hub it has when I pick it up today, I am assuming I should just spring for a new cassette as well if I get the new wheels? Only problem the 700X25mm tires I just got I'm told will not fit the 700X18 wheels I am looking at
#9
Step 1: find a new LBS. Overhauling a rear hub is really just routine maintenance. My LBS charges $25 for this. Telling a person they need a new wheel because the bearings need to be replaced is like telling a person they need a new car because it needs new sparkplugs.
Follow the instructions on Parktools.com and you shouldn't have any problems. After you have successfully done the rear, you should probably clean and lube the front as well. This should generally be done annually.
Follow the instructions on Parktools.com and you shouldn't have any problems. After you have successfully done the rear, you should probably clean and lube the front as well. This should generally be done annually.
#10
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maybe I opened a can of worms......
I called the LBS they told me that the wheels are true and the bike needs hub service, there is a grinding and popping when the wheel spins. They said 75-100 for a new wheel. even more to replace the hub. He said that is if get a new set of wheels and run a shimano cassette (which is what the wheel takes that I am looking at) it might not work because I have suntour components (it currently has suntour cassette) since it was meant to have a suntour. Someone who has experience with this help me out. It doesn't pay for me to get the new wheels, spacer and cassette if it it not going to shift and work? any info would be greatly appreciated
I called the LBS they told me that the wheels are true and the bike needs hub service, there is a grinding and popping when the wheel spins. They said 75-100 for a new wheel. even more to replace the hub. He said that is if get a new set of wheels and run a shimano cassette (which is what the wheel takes that I am looking at) it might not work because I have suntour components (it currently has suntour cassette) since it was meant to have a suntour. Someone who has experience with this help me out. It doesn't pay for me to get the new wheels, spacer and cassette if it it not going to shift and work? any info would be greatly appreciated
#11
maybe I opened a can of worms......
I called the LBS they told me that the wheels are true and the bike needs hub service, there is a grinding and popping when the wheel spins. They said 75-100 for a new wheel. even more to replace the hub. He said that is if get a new set of wheels and run a shimano cassette (which is what the wheel takes that I am looking at) it might not work because I have suntour components (it currently has suntour cassette) since it was meant to have a suntour. Someone who has experience with this help me out. It doesn't pay for me to get the new wheels, spacer and cassette if it it not going to shift and work? any info would be greatly appreciated
I called the LBS they told me that the wheels are true and the bike needs hub service, there is a grinding and popping when the wheel spins. They said 75-100 for a new wheel. even more to replace the hub. He said that is if get a new set of wheels and run a shimano cassette (which is what the wheel takes that I am looking at) it might not work because I have suntour components (it currently has suntour cassette) since it was meant to have a suntour. Someone who has experience with this help me out. It doesn't pay for me to get the new wheels, spacer and cassette if it it not going to shift and work? any info would be greatly appreciated
And yes, avoid the Shimano cassette type hub.
#13
I remember it seemed for some of the Maillard hubs we could only get complete axlesets (cones, axles, and all the spacers and locknuts), particularly those that had dustcaps pressed on to the cones. I think the 500 is one of those. Shouldn't cost much more than just a couple cones.
#14
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I took some advice on the new LBS and found one right in my city, trek dealer, when I explained the situation to him and told him what the other shop was telling me, he said he could do it much cheaper. I am taking it today after I pick it up from the other shop. This second shop I have found is right in the city I live in, I just didn't know about it
The other is a bigger name shop that can afford to pawn stuff they don't want to do onto others. They pretty much just lost my business. He said I should have it back in rideable condition by the weekend. I may just give him the front wheel to do too?! thoughts?
The other is a bigger name shop that can afford to pawn stuff they don't want to do onto others. They pretty much just lost my business. He said I should have it back in rideable condition by the weekend. I may just give him the front wheel to do too?! thoughts?
#15
You Know!? For Kids!



Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Just NW of Richardson Bike Mart
Bikes: '05 Trek 1200 / '90 Trek 8000 / '? Falcon Europa
I would look for cracking around the eyelets or in the eyelets themselves. It is my understanding that once they go, the rim is toast and then you are looking at the cost of a new rim and relace or a whole new wheel.
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#18
You Know!? For Kids!



Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Just NW of Richardson Bike Mart
Bikes: '05 Trek 1200 / '90 Trek 8000 / '? Falcon Europa
My Trek had all Shimano components, including a Shimano cassette on the Maillaird hubs.
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#20
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got the bike back from one LBS and took at to the 2nd LBS last night, they are trying to get it done asap. I did find out the wheels I have are Matrix Titan. They are going to look at the rear hub. I ride it this summer, and maybe then switche everything over?
#21
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got the bike back from the other shop today, cost $3 for new read hub bearings, his tune up cost was half that of the other shop, and he also included the rear hub work in the tune up cost. Pretty good deal in my book. Got my look pedals today (used for 12.79 shipped) and also my shoes. Put the cletes on and gave it a quick trial run. The weather here isn't the greatest. I also picked up a air pump, with repair kit and also a 120Lb reading guage that mounts right to the bike. need to mount my cateye speedo yet, and put my new brake pads on. Oh I also got a little gear pack that velcros onto my seat/seatpost.
I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow.
I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow.
#22
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Here's a link to the specs on that bike.
https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/trek/Trek88_1.pdf
I'll have to look at my old Matrix wheels and look for cracks. I guess it can happen even with 36 spokes.
https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/trek/Trek88_1.pdf
I'll have to look at my old Matrix wheels and look for cracks. I guess it can happen even with 36 spokes.






