Fitting Campagnolo Rear Hub with Campagnolo Dropout
06-13-08, 07:20 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Fitting Campagnolo Rear Hub with Campagnolo Dropout
Ok. First, this is not a rear spacing issue...it's a question of a dropout accepting an axle of certain diameter.
Seems like it should be easy: Campagnolo dropout (from early 80's bike) meets Campagnolo hub (with original axle). The problem is that the axle diameter appears to exceed the width of the dropout opening. I've tried a Chorus hub, an older Record hub, and a Super Record hub. The only one that fits is the Super Record hub, and then only if aligned so that the slot in the threads is at 12:00. No luck with any other hubs/axles.
Is this normal? I've certainly never encountered this issue before, and it does not appear as though the dropout is in any way bent/damaged.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Seems like it should be easy: Campagnolo dropout (from early 80's bike) meets Campagnolo hub (with original axle). The problem is that the axle diameter appears to exceed the width of the dropout opening. I've tried a Chorus hub, an older Record hub, and a Super Record hub. The only one that fits is the Super Record hub, and then only if aligned so that the slot in the threads is at 12:00. No luck with any other hubs/axles.
Is this normal? I've certainly never encountered this issue before, and it does not appear as though the dropout is in any way bent/damaged.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
06-13-08, 04:57 PM
#2
Bottecchia fan
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 3,520
Bikes: 1959 Bottecchia Milano-Sanremo (frame), 1966 Bottecchia Professional (frame), 1971 Bottecchia Professional (frame), 1973 Bottecchia Gran Turismo, 1974 Bottecchia Special, 1977 Bottecchia Special (frame), 1974 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
9 Posts
It's not normal. I'd bet money it's bent slightly even if it's not obvious. The LBS should have the tools to check. Bring it in and let them have a look.
__________________
1959 Bottecchia Milano-Sanremo(frame), 1966 Bottecchia Professional (frame), 1971 Bottecchia Professional (frame),
1973 Bottecchia Gran Turismo, 1974 Bottecchia Special, 1977 Bottecchia Special (frame),
1974 Peugeot UO-8, 1988 Panasonic PT-3500, 2002 Bianchi Veloce, 2004 Bianchi Pista
1959 Bottecchia Milano-Sanremo(frame), 1966 Bottecchia Professional (frame), 1971 Bottecchia Professional (frame),
1973 Bottecchia Gran Turismo, 1974 Bottecchia Special, 1977 Bottecchia Special (frame),
1974 Peugeot UO-8, 1988 Panasonic PT-3500, 2002 Bianchi Veloce, 2004 Bianchi Pista
06-13-08, 06:40 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1857 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
06-13-08, 09:44 PM
#4
Old Skeptic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 1,044
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
If it is not one of the jaws being pressed closed, I would suspect it is just a matter of the dropouts not being perfectly parallel... which is to say, one or both are perhaps tilted outward at the bottom just a bit.
There are simple alignmant tools to verify this...
something simple like these ancient Campy dropout alignment tools.
Fitted to any dropouts, regardless of the distance between, they should set up basically like this:
... if not, you simply use them as levers to bend the dropouts until the ends meet properly.
something simple like these ancient Campy dropout alignment tools.
Fitted to any dropouts, regardless of the distance between, they should set up basically like this:
... if not, you simply use them as levers to bend the dropouts until the ends meet properly.
06-14-08, 06:56 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,036 Times
in
1,874 Posts
+1, but you don't need to go to the LBS to have this checked. First, remove the dropout screw. Then try to slide your axle through the dropout, from the side, at the very back. If the bottom tyne has been bent up slightly, the axle should still fit at the very back. Once the axle is place, pulling it forward may even open the tyne.
06-14-08, 07:00 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1857 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
+1, but you don't need to go to the LBS to have this checked. First, remove the dropout screw. Then try to slide your axle through the dropout, from the side, at the very back. If the bottom tyne has been bent up slightly, the axle should still fit at the very back. Once the axle is place, pulling it forward may even open the tyne.
++++1111!
But I would use say a big screwdriver to gently pry the slot open, and use the axle as a guide rather than as a means of forcing the dropout. When the bad dropout fits as well as the good one, you're done. Don't open it too far!
06-14-08, 07:26 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,158
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,699 Times
in
2,611 Posts
Neal
06-14-08, 07:33 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1857 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
06-15-08, 05:40 AM
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the excellent advice. After removing the dropout screw, I confirmed that there was about a 1mm bend at the front. Then the crescent wrench and some force. Now the rear hub is in place.
06-15-08, 06:09 AM
#10
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,798
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1393 Post(s)
Liked 1,325 Times
in
837 Posts
Be extremely gentle when realigning or straightening forged dropouts -- they crack somewhat easily. I concur that one should adjust as little as possible, just enough to get the job done.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
