I am almost done with my 1961 Raynal "refurb." The hub is not shifting smoothly and I am hesitant to pull it all apart. Reviewing SB's site and others, it talks about lubricating using motor oil. The quantity seems to be several teaspoons (if I read that correctly). Being not much of a mechanic, the only motor oil I have is for a lawn mower. But I don't want to go down the motor oil route - it seems like it is not correct. I realize I am looking at the problem from a suburban America 2008 perspective rather than when the hub was built! Nonetheless, is there an oil/lube available from retail chains (e.g. Performance) that will work as well?
Thanks!

My SA hubs bloody well run on whatever I dump in there However any light oil will work, sewing machine oil is about the correct weight. Sheldon Brown liked the Phil Wood oil. IIRC you only need a couple of teaspoons of oil on a rebuild. FWIW I add a squirt every time I go out for a ride, unless it is only to the corner store.

Aaron

I don't have a problem adding drips to the access ports on every ride. Plus the condition this bike was in, anything is going to help!
Thanks Again.

That hub will work like a charm with motor oil. Don't overthink this.

If a good oiling doesn't fix your problem don't be afraid to take it apart. It is actually quite easy.

https://www.karrot.org/ascotto/three_...air_page1.html

Singer sewing machine oil is good or any brand sewing machine oil works and comes with a spout that makes getting it in the hub a snap.Try getting those tea spoons through your spokes to pour the motor oil down that tiny hole!

Another oil that works well is 3 in 1 Electric Motor Bearing oil in a blue can. It's the correct 20 wt and the can has a small spout that fits the SA oiler hole. I suggest taking the hub apart and cleaning it. You don't have to take the guts all apart after you remove them from the hub. A thorough dousing with a spray can gun cleaner will suffice. The last one I took apart looked like some one had put grease in it. Shifts perfect with 20 wt oil in it after I washed out all the gunk.

Ditto on the Sewing Machine Oil or 3 in 1 oil in blue can. Amazing how well that spout fits the hub's lube port - almost like they were made for each other.

I reread the OP where some reservations were expressed about taking the hub apart. Once you do it you will find it's easy. You may find your's has greasy gunk inside it like one of mine did. It was gross. Print out Sheldon Brown's instructions and follow them. The only thing in his instructions I don't care for is the hammer and square punch method of loosening the large right hand ball race that's behind the sprocket. I think the wrench I use is called a "C" spanner. It's circular like a C with a hook on the far open end. I hook that into the notch on the ball race and with a good heave it comes loose. I reinstall it the same way. BTW, not all SA ball races have the small "SA" stamped in one of the notches. I marked the one I have that isn't marked with a center punch so I could reinstall it in the same position it was in. Not sure why that's important but everyone says it is. Of particular importance is only loosening the right bearing cone on the axle one half turn only. Give it a try, you'll sleep better knowing your hub is nice and clean inside.
Edit: I would suggest not taking the pawls on the left end of the assembly out unless you feel a need to they are buggers to get back in place with their little springs.

Check out post #20 in this thread:

https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/401069-do-you-fold-your-r20.html

In addition to Sheldon's instructions, this should be all you'll need to take the hub apart. Use the links mentioned.

I had stuck pawls in the first one I took apart. I was also quite worried about opening it, but 30 min of work saw the hub working like new.

Have fun.

OK, I will do it! FWIW, Tri-flow = no good for SA. At least it lube my garage floor. I tried to ride it around as much as possible to move it through the hub. I now have 4 projects to work and I just need to dedicate some time and "get er done!" I just want to finish and post my pics - waaaaaaaa.

You must not be too much of a C&V guy if you ONLY have 4 projects I have so many I have forgotten what's next...a part I ordered from the EU comes in I look at it and wonder then I usually figure out which project it is for then have to figure out if I have enough parts to get started or not. ADD has it's perks

Aaron

Definitely a C&V noob :-)! Although I am lurking on CL for buys (NONE OF YOU TELL MY WIFE!!!). I am not sure 3 of my 4 projects are even C&V related:
1) Finish Raynal (now I need to redo hub and figure out WTF is rubbing!!!)
2) Make 1st gen Manitou shock lamp (that is vintage - hehehe)
3) Replace 1990 Diamond Back Apex BB - is that Vintage?
4) Repack hubs on #3

Oh yeah - plus don't neglect my triathlon training :-).

taking apart these hubs is easy and rewarding. But, if your list of things to do could use a checkmark I recommend flushing your hub with WD-40, letting it dry overnight and adding 10 ml of motor oil. this has fixed every shifting problem I've ever had with a SA hub. All of this hunting for an oil that works as well as motor oil but has a different name is ridiculous. if you want to be fancy use synthetic motor oil. real men don't put sewing machine oil on their bikes.......

I thought 3N1 oil was a no-no for SA hubs? Something about it leaving behind a residue as it dries up?

I use mineral spirits/paint thinner/kerosene for cleaning (assuming I am NOT tearing down the hub) as far as choice of oil...just about anything will work including Canola oil in a pinch...

Aaron

I've never had a problem with 3in1 in my SA hubs and I've used it for years.
The stuff was made for bikes...

From the 3in1 website:
1894 George W. Cole, a resident of Asbury Park, New Jersey, compounds a mixture to accomplish three things in connection with the care and maintenance of a bicycle. These are: a lubricant, a rust preventative and a cleaner.