80's Shimano 600 brake help
#1
Thread Starter
Mr. cost-benefit analysis
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
From: Agua Dulce, CA
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck Single Speed, Novara 9 speed commuter/runabout
80's Shimano 600 brake help
Hey guys;
Just got back from my first shake down cruise on my refurbished 80's road bike. For the most part, I'm really happy with it. The frame rides sweet and the Shimano drive train rocks - even the friction shifters! There's only 2 issues I'm having besides my front tire blowing out. (Of course it was a hundred degrees out... and at least I was heading up hill, instead of screaming down!)
Anyway. I forgot how soft those Aria 27x1" rims are. Even though I re-laced both wheels under expert tutelage, I had to true the front once and the rear... three times and counting. But I can deal with the wheels.
What I'd like some help with is the old Shimano 600 (arabasque) brakes. I can't keep them centered, especially the rear. No matter what I do it drags on one side. So anyone who's had to deal with these particular brakes have any set-up tips?
Much appreciated in advance.
DanO
Just got back from my first shake down cruise on my refurbished 80's road bike. For the most part, I'm really happy with it. The frame rides sweet and the Shimano drive train rocks - even the friction shifters! There's only 2 issues I'm having besides my front tire blowing out. (Of course it was a hundred degrees out... and at least I was heading up hill, instead of screaming down!)
Anyway. I forgot how soft those Aria 27x1" rims are. Even though I re-laced both wheels under expert tutelage, I had to true the front once and the rear... three times and counting. But I can deal with the wheels.
What I'd like some help with is the old Shimano 600 (arabasque) brakes. I can't keep them centered, especially the rear. No matter what I do it drags on one side. So anyone who's had to deal with these particular brakes have any set-up tips?
Much appreciated in advance.
DanO
#3
Thread Starter
Mr. cost-benefit analysis
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
From: Agua Dulce, CA
Bikes: Surly Crosscheck Single Speed, Novara 9 speed commuter/runabout
Here's a couple pictures of the bike and brakes.
Thanks for the input. DanO
PS; Those Kool Stop pads I sent away for special just SCREECH on the rims - even after I took some sand paper to them. I'll be looking for something else.
Last edited by Bottomfeeder; 08-02-08 at 08:47 PM.
#4
Who cares, just ride it!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 989
Likes: 5
From: Melbourne
Bikes: 1992ish Davidson Impulse, 1981 Apollo Gran Sport SS, 2006 Salsa Las Cruces, 2010 Soma Double Cross
You can centre the calipers with the chromed star nut behind the spring. I think it is a 12 or 14mm from memory. You will need a brake wrench though; a standard wrench is too thick. If you haven't got a brake wrench then you can either a) loosen the whole caliper from the back, centre it carefully, re-tighten or b) take a hammer and punch to the spring itself to change the tension side to side.
As for the squealing, in addition to sanding the rims slightly, file the outer glossy layer off the brake pads, then "toe" (read: bend) the caliper arms in so that the front of the pads contact the rim slightly before the backs when the brake is applied. Again, the specialty tool (Park toe-in) is handy, but you can use an adjustable wrench in a pinch.
As for the squealing, in addition to sanding the rims slightly, file the outer glossy layer off the brake pads, then "toe" (read: bend) the caliper arms in so that the front of the pads contact the rim slightly before the backs when the brake is applied. Again, the specialty tool (Park toe-in) is handy, but you can use an adjustable wrench in a pinch.
#5
You can centre the calipers with the chromed star nut behind the spring. I think it is a 12 or 14mm from memory. You will need a brake wrench though; a standard wrench is too thick. If you haven't got a brake wrench then you can either a) loosen the whole caliper from the back, centre it carefully, re-tighten or b) take a hammer and punch to the spring itself to change the tension side to side.
As for the squealing, in addition to sanding the rims slightly, file the outer glossy layer off the brake pads, then "toe" (read: bend) the caliper arms in so that the front of the pads contact the rim slightly before the backs when the brake is applied. Again, the specialty tool (Park toe-in) is handy, but you can use an adjustable wrench in a pinch.
As for the squealing, in addition to sanding the rims slightly, file the outer glossy layer off the brake pads, then "toe" (read: bend) the caliper arms in so that the front of the pads contact the rim slightly before the backs when the brake is applied. Again, the specialty tool (Park toe-in) is handy, but you can use an adjustable wrench in a pinch.
#6
there should be a picture tut. at the park web site on how to adjust single pivot caliber brakes.
1. put a wrench/allen key on the nut on the end of the mounting stud.
2. put a wrench on the nut right in front of the fork or frame
3. turn them together in the way they need to go.
1. put a wrench/allen key on the nut on the end of the mounting stud.
2. put a wrench on the nut right in front of the fork or frame
3. turn them together in the way they need to go.




