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Nishiki Sport Road Bike *PIC* Clueless about this bike

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Nishiki Sport Road Bike *PIC* Clueless about this bike

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Old 08-14-08 | 01:24 AM
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Nishiki Sport Road Bike *PIC* Clueless about this bike

Hi Everyone,

I just bought this bike: https://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...shikiSport.jpg

Can you please tell me more about it? I'm a complete newbie! I needed a bike because I'm training for 100-mile ride with Team in Training to benefit the Lymphoma and Leukemia Society.

All I know about the bike is what the seller has told me and that I was lucky to have been the first caller. It's a Nishiki 12-speed, all original parts, the bike is marked with a "4130 cr-mo fork" logo. I am not sure what that is. He says it means the bike is an 80's or later model. The bike itself is in great condition and rides super smooth. It also has an easy release front tire.

I took his advice and bought the drop bars. I definately got bit by the bicycling bug - I already can't wait to go riding again!

I would appreciate anything you can tell me about the bike, improvements I should make, add-ons, etc.

Thanks so much!
Bernie :-)


If you want to help or more about Team in Training please visit my page at: https://pages.teamintraining.org/los/tucson08/bfranketla
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Old 08-14-08 | 01:58 AM
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Bikes: '88 Specialized Sirrus, '89 Alpine Monitor Pass, two '70 Raligh Twenties, '07 Schwinn Town & Country Trike, '07 Specialized Sirrus Hybrid

Sweet! It has North roads handlebars on it! Most people would tell you to remove them if you're going to be riding long distances, but in a charity ride type of environment where your pace will be brisk and you're not racing you might have just enough hand positions to go the distance comfortably.

The bike itself looks like its entry-level as it has its shift levers stem mounted and that sticker indicates that it is made of high tensile steel. I'm guessing it's about 47 cm to 48cm frame?
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Old 08-14-08 | 02:32 AM
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Great guess! It's 48 - I'm a shortie ahahha

What would you suggest doing to this bike to upgrade it, more comfortable, faster, etc? Would it help if I posted more pictures? Just tell me where.

Thanks so much!

Bernie :-)
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Old 08-14-08 | 03:43 AM
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Bikes: '88 Specialized Sirrus, '89 Alpine Monitor Pass, two '70 Raligh Twenties, '07 Schwinn Town & Country Trike, '07 Specialized Sirrus Hybrid

Originally Posted by Bernie06
Great guess! It's 48 - I'm a shortie ahahha

What would you suggest doing to this bike to upgrade it, more comfortable, faster, etc? Would it help if I posted more pictures? Just tell me where.

Thanks so much!

Bernie :-)
Well, if I had the money to burn I would replace the chrome steel rims with alloy and replace the brake blocks with Cool Stop Salmons for better braking, and some flavor of Brooks saddle (probably a B-66 or 67 if I were keeping the North Road handlebars otherwise a B-17). Other than that there's very little else I would change as this is a entry-level bike. Somewhere down the road I would probably be tempted to put on Shimano M424 pedals so I could have the choice of running in either clipless/SPD or sneakers.
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Old 08-14-08 | 05:06 AM
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The Sport was the typically Nishiki's bottom model in the lighweight (27" wheel) lineup. Based on the components your model is circa 1979-1982. During this period Nishiki did transition the Sport's frame from cheap hi-tensile steel to chromium-molybdenum (CrMo) steel which is much stronger and therefore can be made thinner and lighter. It would have orignally come with drop bars, which have the advantage of offering more hand positions for long rides, however in order to properly utilize these bars you will also need the original brake levers.

As previously mentioned, the best upgrade is probably a set of wheels with aluminum rims. Modern brake pads are also a nice upgrade. This bicycle does not, in my opinion, warrant clipless pedals, however you may want to consider the much less expensive option of toe clips and straps. Saddles are very much personal preference and the one on the bicycle at least appears to be an upgrade over the original.

It would be appreciated if you would submit the serial number for my database. It will be on either the underside of the bottom bracket shell (where the pedal cranks go through the frame) or sections on both of the rear dropouts (where the rear wheel inserts into the frame). Having the serial number will allow me to more accurately determine the age of the bicycle.
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Old 08-14-08 | 05:19 AM
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I had a 83 Nishiki Sport.
Put Toe Clips and Straps on it. Rode it for 1500 miles. I could keep right up with $5,000 custom bikes.
Hard to stop when the rims get wet.
Might try red brake pads.
Just ride it and have fun.
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Old 08-14-08 | 05:20 AM
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Just keep in mind that a bike like this doesn't have any actual value, so I wouldn't spend too much money upgrading. Just ride it as it is, after proper adjustment. These bikes are found as beaters all over the place, along with their cousins: old Norco road bikes, Fiori's... all made by the same company AFAIK. Nishiki is just a name, not an actual make. It can be a good thing to have a bike like this in good shape you can use for every day riding around town. But money spent upgrading significant parts, I think, would be better saved for when you eventually want a better bike.
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Old 08-14-08 | 05:54 AM
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If I was committed to that bike and had a 100-miler coming up, I'd try to find some alloy wheels. You should be able to find a set of Araya or Ukai 27x1.25's with a six-speed set already on it for about $30. Then I'd get some good padded shorts. Have someone repack the bottom bracket and the hubs, about $25, adjust everything, get some air in those tires, then invest in some economical toe clip pedals, maybe some Wellgo's, about $25.

That's about minimum what I'd do to get through the 100-miler. Before that, you need to go on some rides, and find folks going the same speed. I sure wouldn't try to go fast for very long on that.

Afterward, I'd change the bars if you want to keep the bike. You may be better off keeping the bike as a fun ride and getting a road bike. Changing the bars may well mean a stem, cables, levers w/hoods, and bar wrap, plus a saddle since you're not sitting upright anymore. And you'll still only have one bike, but you'd be nearing the price for two.

Plus, if you keep the Nishiki, find a roadie for that kind of riding, you'll be well on your way to the hopeless addiction we all have come to....
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Old 08-14-08 | 06:07 AM
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Well it hasn't been fixed up yet, and the picture has the saddle at sort of a sad position, but here is my Nishiki Sport. It is a later model with chromoly frame and I already have a set of alloy north road bars to swap on to it. The person that I bought it for is coming for a visit this weekend, so we shall see if it fits.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 08-14-08 | 06:12 AM
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Upholster that rack, and you've got a two-seater.
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Old 08-14-08 | 06:18 PM
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You guys are AMAZING- thank you!!! And Robbie...you might have jinxed me - my boyfriend is already starting to feel lonely with my new bike addiction!! Hahaha

All Love,
Bernie :-)
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Old 08-14-08 | 07:15 PM
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Bikes: 2020 Fuji Bighorn 1.3, 2005 LeMond Buenos Aires, 2013 Jamis Coda Elite

I hope this is not hijacking the thread, but is any bike with steel rims not a good buy? My immediate purpose would be to use it for errands - something that's nice but not too nice (so that it wont get stolen!)
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Old 08-14-08 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bernie06
You guys are AMAZING- thank you!!! And Robbie...you might have jinxed me - my boyfriend is already starting to feel lonely with my new bike addiction!! Hahaha

All Love,
Bernie :-)
He's just going to have to learn...BF guys know the deal...
I'm not sure what it is with pretty girls and Nishikis, but seems to be a trend...


Last time I checked, she's riding the heck out of it in Utah.
Glad I could help.
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Old 08-14-08 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by deburn
I hope this is not hijacking the thread, but is any bike with steel rims not a good buy? My immediate purpose would be to use it for errands - something that's nice but not too nice (so that it wont get stolen!)
Steel rims are good but aluminum is better. Being lighter, they accelerate and brake quicker. The difference is readily noticeable to most riders. There was an old saying that saving a pound off the wheels is equivalent to saving two pounds off the frame.

Aluminum has a better coefficient of friction than chromed steel and therefore brakes better. Combine this with the lessened rotating inertia due to the lighter wieght and there is a substantial improvement in braking, particularly in the wet.

The lighter weight also substantially decreases the gyroscopic effect, resulting in a nimbler handling bicycle.

Finally, aluminum rims are much easier to true and maintain.
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Old 08-14-08 | 07:51 PM
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Thanks T-Mar! Appreciate the detailed response.
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