1970 Phillips 3 speed
#1
Thread Starter
aka: Mike J.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,405
Likes: 60
From: between Milwaukee and Sheboygan in Wisconsin
Bikes: 1995 Trek 520 is the current primary bike.
1970 Phillips 3 speed
Found this one at a local thrift shop. If I interpret the hub correctly and assume it is original to the bike then this is a 1970 model.
Wasn't too sure how well the rear hub was going to clean up, looks like it should be good once I get into the hard to get to areas of it. This was just with a few squirts of WD40 and a grease rag. I managed to accidently pop off the oil cap from the hub instead of just opening it so I don't know if I'll need to glue it back on or if it just stays attached with friction, looked like it had some sort of adhesive on it.
Found a few loose spokes, don't know if they're broken or not yet. I printed out the SheldonBrown Sturmey-Archer pages just in case I have to open it up or remove the cog.
The seat post and handlebar stem were just barely inserted into the frame, and the seat tube was probably real close to being stuck.
Saddle appears to be a naugahyde Brooks.
Tires are 26"x1-3/8".
Anyway, here's some pics of it as it currently sits. I haven't got into the bearings yet so don't know what I'll find once I get that deep into it. The plan is to just clean it up, straighten out the fender mounting, clean off the rust and corrosion, and make it ridable again.
Wasn't too sure how well the rear hub was going to clean up, looks like it should be good once I get into the hard to get to areas of it. This was just with a few squirts of WD40 and a grease rag. I managed to accidently pop off the oil cap from the hub instead of just opening it so I don't know if I'll need to glue it back on or if it just stays attached with friction, looked like it had some sort of adhesive on it.
Found a few loose spokes, don't know if they're broken or not yet. I printed out the SheldonBrown Sturmey-Archer pages just in case I have to open it up or remove the cog.
The seat post and handlebar stem were just barely inserted into the frame, and the seat tube was probably real close to being stuck.
Saddle appears to be a naugahyde Brooks.
Tires are 26"x1-3/8".
Anyway, here's some pics of it as it currently sits. I haven't got into the bearings yet so don't know what I'll find once I get that deep into it. The plan is to just clean it up, straighten out the fender mounting, clean off the rust and corrosion, and make it ridable again.
Last edited by treebound; 09-23-08 at 07:38 PM.
#2
Thread Starter
aka: Mike J.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,405
Likes: 60
From: between Milwaukee and Sheboygan in Wisconsin
Bikes: 1995 Trek 520 is the current primary bike.
More pics.
Does anyone know what an original seat post bolt looks like? I'm pretty sure the nut/bolt/washer on the bike isn't original. ;-)
Does anyone know what an original seat post bolt looks like? I'm pretty sure the nut/bolt/washer on the bike isn't original. ;-)
Last edited by treebound; 09-23-08 at 07:37 PM.
#5
Thread Starter
aka: Mike J.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,405
Likes: 60
From: between Milwaukee and Sheboygan in Wisconsin
Bikes: 1995 Trek 520 is the current primary bike.
Thanks. I'm going to have to be carefull when I clean it up more. There's one 90% missing decal on the rear fender but apart from that most of them are still intact. I'm guessing this one sat in someone's basement or up in the rafters of a garage. The tires have some cracking on them and the brake pads look well worn so I assume it's had at least one tire change but the brake pads might be original.
Here's a shot I took of the rear tire and right rear brake pad. I'm probably the only person who would take a pic of a brake pad.
Here's a shot I took of the rear tire and right rear brake pad. I'm probably the only person who would take a pic of a brake pad.
#6
Wow, Sweet! I don't think I have to tell you this, but don't use the WD-40 inside the hub.
Keep the WD-40 away from the decals. I have had it lift some decals.
Anyway, what a beautiful machine!! You are so lucky.
Keep the WD-40 away from the decals. I have had it lift some decals.
Anyway, what a beautiful machine!! You are so lucky.
#8
Thread Starter
aka: Mike J.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,405
Likes: 60
From: between Milwaukee and Sheboygan in Wisconsin
Bikes: 1995 Trek 520 is the current primary bike.
No WD40 inside the hub, just lightly sprayed on the outside to use as a makeshift solvent to get the main layer of gunk off. Good to know about the overspray on the decals, I'll be carefull.
Nice red bike there BikeManDan. Looks like that one still had the rear reflector intact on it, something for me to keep an eye open for. Or I'll just finally get around to placing an order with the VeloOrange folks for a couple of items I've seen on their site. Also looks like I need to find another rear brake cable strap to get the brake cable housing spaghettiness under control.
I'm kind of liking the idea of going with gumwall or whitestriped sidewall tires on this one instead of the basic black tires. I'll have to do some looking through the catalogs to see what I can find. Seems like something other than black sidewalls would brighten up the bike a bit.
Nice red bike there BikeManDan. Looks like that one still had the rear reflector intact on it, something for me to keep an eye open for. Or I'll just finally get around to placing an order with the VeloOrange folks for a couple of items I've seen on their site. Also looks like I need to find another rear brake cable strap to get the brake cable housing spaghettiness under control.
I'm kind of liking the idea of going with gumwall or whitestriped sidewall tires on this one instead of the basic black tires. I'll have to do some looking through the catalogs to see what I can find. Seems like something other than black sidewalls would brighten up the bike a bit.
#9
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Here's a couple of suggestions if you lose the loose oil port cap on the SA hub. 1 - check with a couple of your local LBS - they may have a "junk drawer" with a replacement for the entire plastic oil port assembly. 2 - if that fails, a proper sized bolt would substitute. The old plastic assembly simply unthreads from the hub. I can't remember though the size bolt of the threading, but it is metric obviously. Be careful threading it in the first time - there aren't many threads there in the hub and you don't want to ruin it. I would use a Phillips head bolt here - Much easier to get at when removing it for re-oiling the hub.
Nice find from a thrift shop. It looks good already and should look even better when you are finished. I don't have much info on Phillips bikes however. Anyone got a history lesson on these bikes?
Nice find from a thrift shop. It looks good already and should look even better when you are finished. I don't have much info on Phillips bikes however. Anyone got a history lesson on these bikes?
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 14
From: Maidstone, Kent, England
Bikes: 1970 Holdsworth Mistral, Vitus 979, Colnago Primavera, Corratec Hydracarbon, Massi MegaTeam, 1935 Claud Butler Super Velo, Carrera Virtuoso, Viner, 1953 Claud Butler Silver Jubilee, 1954 Holdsworth Typhoon, 1966 Claud Butler Olympic Road, 1982 Claud
Original seat bolt was chromed, with a domed head and a tiny key under the domed head to locate it in the slot cut in the "ear" of the seat-bolt tab on the frame. It had a single plain washer on the threaded end, followed by a chromed nut with a conical section above the flats (like a domed nut, but with an open end). I'd send a photo but I don't have any of these seat bolts left now. Beautiful condition for a Phillips of that age!
#11
Thread Starter
aka: Mike J.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,405
Likes: 60
From: between Milwaukee and Sheboygan in Wisconsin
Bikes: 1995 Trek 520 is the current primary bike.
Thanks, sounds like the clamping bolt I've seen on kid's bikes and on the Columbia I've got. I'm planning on stopping at the bike shop on Friday to order a set of tires and will dig through their big bin to see if they've got a bolt for the seat post.
For tires I'm currently thinking of going with some Panaracer Col de la Vie that I came across on a web site. Should look nice on the bike.
For tires I'm currently thinking of going with some Panaracer Col de la Vie that I came across on a web site. Should look nice on the bike.
#12
Here's a couple of suggestions if you lose the loose oil port cap on the SA hub. 1 - check with a couple of your local LBS - they may have a "junk drawer" with a replacement for the entire plastic oil port assembly. 2 - if that fails, a proper sized bolt would substitute. The old plastic assembly simply unthreads from the hub. I can't remember though the size bolt of the threading, but it is metric obviously. Be careful threading it in the first time - there aren't many threads there in the hub and you don't want to ruin it. I would use a Phillips head bolt here - Much easier to get at when removing it for re-oiling the hub.
Nice find from a thrift shop. It looks good already and should look even better when you are finished. I don't have much info on Phillips bikes however. Anyone got a history lesson on these bikes?
Nice find from a thrift shop. It looks good already and should look even better when you are finished. I don't have much info on Phillips bikes however. Anyone got a history lesson on these bikes?
When I need fasteners and odd stuff for my bicycle, I wheel it right into the ACE True Value hardware store and tell the guy, "I need something for this" and the hunt begins. They usually come up with something.
#13
Membership Not Required
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16,853
Likes: 18
From: On the road-USA
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Here's a couple of suggestions if you lose the loose oil port cap on the SA hub. 1 - check with a couple of your local LBS - they may have a "junk drawer" with a replacement for the entire plastic oil port assembly. 2 - if that fails, a proper sized bolt would substitute. The old plastic assembly simply unthreads from the hub. I can't remember though the size bolt of the threading, but it is metric obviously. Be careful threading it in the first time - there aren't many threads there in the hub and you don't want to ruin it. I would use a Phillips head bolt here - Much easier to get at when removing it for re-oiling the hub.
Nice find from a thrift shop. It looks good already and should look even better when you are finished. I don't have much info on Phillips bikes however. Anyone got a history lesson on these bikes?
Nice find from a thrift shop. It looks good already and should look even better when you are finished. I don't have much info on Phillips bikes however. Anyone got a history lesson on these bikes?
Raleigh ®
The Raleigh bicycle company of Nottingham, England, was, for many years the largest cycle factory in the world. Over the first two-thirds of the century, Raleigh absorbed most of the independent bicycle manufacturers in Britain.
Raleigh had its own standards for threading and other dimensions, which were different from standard British dimensions. In particular, they used 26 threads/inch, rather than 24 for headsets and bottom brackets. More information on older Raleighs is available in my article on English 3-speeds, and my Raleigh Sports Page. -Sheldon Brown
The Raleigh bicycle company of Nottingham, England, was, for many years the largest cycle factory in the world. Over the first two-thirds of the century, Raleigh absorbed most of the independent bicycle manufacturers in Britain.
Raleigh had its own standards for threading and other dimensions, which were different from standard British dimensions. In particular, they used 26 threads/inch, rather than 24 for headsets and bottom brackets. More information on older Raleighs is available in my article on English 3-speeds, and my Raleigh Sports Page. -Sheldon Brown
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#16
Thread Starter
aka: Mike J.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,405
Likes: 60
From: between Milwaukee and Sheboygan in Wisconsin
Bikes: 1995 Trek 520 is the current primary bike.
Yep, Harris has the filler cap, good to know
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/sturm...her-parts.html
I'm thinking SmallParts/BikePartsEtc/LooseScrews/(enter current name here) probably has them as well.
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/sturm...her-parts.html
I'm thinking SmallParts/BikePartsEtc/LooseScrews/(enter current name here) probably has them as well.
#17
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Oil Cap Repair
I have several SA hubs, the oldest is from a 1952 Humber, which had the metal flip cap at one time but it had broken off. The previous owner of the bike used a small piece of rag to plug the oil port; not too elegant. I found some small plastic caps at Home Depot that fit over the nipple. These caps are the ones that fit over small bolts on furniture/toys, etc. to prevent getting scratched. They also look like the ones you use to fix dishwasher racks that have worn plastic coatings and cause rust stains on the dishes. An appliance repair shop may have a better selection than HD. They cost 20 cents and I found them in the nut and bolts section at HD. I can't recall the size but it fit snuggly over the oil port nipple.






