stuck adjustable BB cup
#1
Thread Starter
surly old man

Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Carlisle, PA
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stuck adjustable BB cup
I consider myself to be a world-class stuck fixed BB cup remover.
I have never had any serious trouble getting out an adjustable cup however. This is one that is meant to removed with a pin-spanner. So there are no flat to grab anywhere.
Any sage ideas? It is sitting in penetrating oil right now.
p.s., next comes the stuck seatpost. I fear this old Rockhopper might be more than I bargained for.
jim
I have never had any serious trouble getting out an adjustable cup however. This is one that is meant to removed with a pin-spanner. So there are no flat to grab anywhere.
Any sage ideas? It is sitting in penetrating oil right now.
p.s., next comes the stuck seatpost. I fear this old Rockhopper might be more than I bargained for.
jim
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#2
Seņor Member



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From: Hardy, VA
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Jim,
I have a tool that might work on it. Basically a large hex bolt that can be passed through the opening and held secure by a nut on the back end, and washers on both. The idea is the washers pinch the cup, and make it turn when you use a large adjustable wrench to turn the secured bolt
I have a tool that might work on it. Basically a large hex bolt that can be passed through the opening and held secure by a nut on the back end, and washers on both. The idea is the washers pinch the cup, and make it turn when you use a large adjustable wrench to turn the secured bolt
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#3
Thread Starter
surly old man

Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
I have that tool also (homemade; it is a lifesaver). But it will turn the wrong way for the adjustable cup. Tonight I am going to try using it to crank it down a smidge, and hope it breaks the rust bond enough so that I can somehow get traction on it and back it out.
jim
jim
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#4
FalconLvr


Joined: Jun 2006
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According to Sheldon Brown you can rig up the hex bolt to turn whichever direction you need it to.
#5
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#6
#8
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#9
FalconLvr


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Since the OP stated he was going to use that tool tonight to try and tighten the cup more to break the threads loose, I would assume he has access to interior of the BB
#10
#11
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pipe wrench?
adjustable rubber headed or regular with a towel to protect the threads
adjustable rubber headed or regular with a towel to protect the threads
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#12
Take a hammer and a punch and whack the adjustable cup a few times (have the frame in a vice or stand, or some other dude's hand). You should eventually punch it loose. If that doesn't work, say the cup is $*# $'d and put the cup in the vice real tight and twist it. If it still doesn't come out, it's time to get out the power tools, or say the frame beat you. Sometimes you beat the frame, sometimes the frame beats you. Next step it to carefully cut out the cup with a saw, being careful not to cut the threads too bad. At this point you will find that some gorilla cross threaded the dang thing in the first place and the threads are swaggled anyway. So...That cup needs to come out right?
Cheers
Cheers
#13
Thread Starter
surly old man

Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Yup, the fixed cup came right out. Hardly tight at all.
Damn, why didn't I think of tightening from the inside with a deep socket. Can't wait to get home and try it out.
More later, jim
Damn, why didn't I think of tightening from the inside with a deep socket. Can't wait to get home and try it out.
More later, jim
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#14
I like the whacking idea, but I'd lay the frame down so the fixed cup side is on a solid surface, then whack the adjustable cup. Otherwise the force of the blows is basically trying to break the BB shell from the frame. I'd whack it a few times, then squirt some liquid wrench or oil, then whack a few more times, wait a few hours, repeat...then try again tomorrow to remove it.
#15
Thread Starter
surly old man

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From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Thanks all. Using the sheldon-tool backwards worked. Too bad I screwed up the pins of my spanner first.
Now, about that stuck seatpost. Its soaking in ammonia right now. But I have never had that work before. I despise going the hacksaw blade route.
jim
Now, about that stuck seatpost. Its soaking in ammonia right now. But I have never had that work before. I despise going the hacksaw blade route.
jim
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#17
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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with the stuck seat post try to spread the clamping cut open with a screw driver and the use a pipe wrench and twist it from side to side. Ohh and a lot of wd-40.
I'm sure you have tried all this already but just a reminder in case.
I'm sure you have tried all this already but just a reminder in case.
#18
Thread Starter
surly old man

Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Not sure what that is. Don't have an ACE here.
I went to the farm/tractor store and found a piece of tractor steering linkage that is perfect. It has massive threads on one end and on the other is a think post with a strong eyelet. I thread on a 15/16" nut with washers on one end, and use a long, strong bar through the eyelet to crank down on the other. I can generate herculean amounts of torque with it.
A normal bolt is fine, just make sure it is as stout as possible (essentially, use the largest diameter bolt/nut that you can fit in there).
jim
I went to the farm/tractor store and found a piece of tractor steering linkage that is perfect. It has massive threads on one end and on the other is a think post with a strong eyelet. I thread on a 15/16" nut with washers on one end, and use a long, strong bar through the eyelet to crank down on the other. I can generate herculean amounts of torque with it.
A normal bolt is fine, just make sure it is as stout as possible (essentially, use the largest diameter bolt/nut that you can fit in there).
jim
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